Teeny .010, and Weeny .020

rsv1cox wrote:

Excellent work, friend, what kind of cleaning agent have you used? ... they have been beautiful and bright!

Jason_WI wrote:Those turned out good.

I’ll check my pile of used .010 tanks. I may have one that you can use.

Thanks Jason,  I have one that I could use but it's badly discolored.  Do you know of a way it could be buffed out?





PS:

Just Simple Green diluted about 30% Mauricio.  Warm the liquid in a microwave for about a minute, soak for five minutes then disassemble and clean.  I use Remoil as a finisher to protect, then polish. It leaves a shiny film.



Bob

For your information Mauricio, "Simple Green" is a brand of detergent, easily available in North America, but I haven't found it here.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simple-Green-32-oz-Concentrated-All-Purpose-Cleaner-2710001213033/100398965

Edit: the smell of Simple Green is "not bad", it has no solvent-like door odor at all. More like hand-dishwashing detergent, but stonger.

Edit2: nice work on the wee ones Bob!

Nice work. Lookin' good!

Eco friendly Simple Green and Reoil.  Two of my mainstays.  



Simple Green degreases and Remoil drives out moisture, lubricates, and protects.  But a WARNING on Simple Green.  It WILL turn some alloys black if left immersed for periods longer than a few minutes.   Curious, it happens on some Babe Bee cases but does not seem to affect others.  Test first if you use it.  It does not affect anodized cases like an anti freeze boil will.  

A weeks work.



A few more to go.  More complaining than bragging.





Laying out cases that I need parts for,  The odd green case....Do standard .049 parts fit it.  I tried a new crankshaft to no joy.

You've inspired me. I've got a cigar box labeled "Crusty Reedies" that contains product engines, Babe Bees, Medallions, and odd parts that need that same treatment. I'm going to start sorting through it, cleaning them up to see what's what this week. Maybe there will be a fine running jewel or two as a result. The pics in this thread and looking at that box again have me wondering about ways to mount those old postage stamp backplates. I've never fooled with using those on RC planes before, electing to use engines with the standard bolt-on backplates. Either way, I'll enjoy getting them back to good condition again.

Rsv1cox, I'm curious about your Simple Green Mixture of 30%. Do you mix 30% SG or 30% water?

I have tried to clean staining off of tanks without much luck. The problem is the staining can go pretty deep.

This is what I have for .010 tanks. The bottom middle one is the best. Has a slight nick top center of the tank. I think this one would clean up pretty good.

PM me if you need it.

Tee Bee wrote:Rsv1cox, I'm curious about your Simple Green Mixture of 30%.  Do you mix 30% SG or 30% water?

30% water give or take.

Simple Green comes two ways, concentrated and household.  I buy the concentrated and cut it for certain types of engines. full strength for others not susceptible to blackening.  Warming it really helps to cut castor lock on heads, cylinders, pistons, and machine screws.  Wear gloves. It's super safe environmentally but it will remove moisture and oils from your hands. 

PM sent Jason.  

Bob

KariFS wrote:For your information Mauricio, "Simple Green" is a brand of detergent, easily available in North America, but I haven't found it here.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simple-Green-32-oz-Concentrated-All-Purpose-Cleaner-2710001213033/100398965

Edit: the smell of Simple Green is "not bad", it has no solvent-like door odor at all. More like hand-dishwashing detergent, but stonger.

Edit2: nice work on the wee ones Bob!

Friend, thanks for the clarification, those details are very important because in different parts of the world the same product can be called differently.

rsv1cox wrote:Eco friendly Simple Green and Reoil.  Two of my mainstays.  



Simple Green degreases and Remoil drives out moisture, lubricates, and protects.  But a WARNING on Simple Green.  It WILL turn some alloys black if left immersed for periods longer than a few minutes.   Curious, it happens on some Babe Bee cases but does not seem to affect others.  Test first if you use it.  It does not affect anodized cases like an anti freeze boil will.  

A weeks work.



A few more to go.  More complaining than bragging.





Laying out cases that I need parts for,  The odd green case....Do standard .049 parts fit it.  I tried a new crankshaft to no joy.

Thanks Bob to you too, for the clarification detail!

Well, this is all your fault. I started with these 4 Babe Bees, a Med .049, and a very crusty Med .09. The product engines will have to wait a bit longer. Used the diluted Simple Green first. as suggested. Instead of Rem Oil, I used Aero Kroil penetrating oil to help break the engines free. Most of them cooperated with just a bit of soaking and waiting. The .09 required baking at 275F for a spell to loosen it up. After that, I took everything apart and spent lots of time polishing the aluminum bits with Mother's polish. Used a cloth and a small Dremel polishing wheel. Messy! After cleaning everything back up, the engines were reassembled and treated with some Rislone oil, my favorite after-run lube. Each engine still needs some stuff. Adding new gaskets, o-rings, lines, reeds, carbs, etc. to the never-ending wish lists.

Wow, six at a time.  Happy to take the blame.  

My brain is too addled to attempt that without mixing and/or losing parts.  They all look great.  I will have to try that Mothers polish, I have been using the kitchen powder intended for pots and pans,occasionally resorting to a buffing wheel.  Kroil, the best (proven) penetrating oil on the planet.  And the Rislone engine treatment, presently a container of that resides in the crankcase of my MG along with four quarts of 20/W50.  But, the Simple Green pictured is diluted household, I use that full strength.  They also sell concentrated SG in both spray and quart bottles.  

Where possible I retain the original gaskets and reeds.  Especially if they will just be used for display.  The majority.  The engines that I choose to run or mount on models will have all new gaskets.

I only have one Medallion a .15 or is it a .09, but I can't find it.  Pictured here sometime ago in a post long forgotten.  I never took it apart.  Guess I will have to locate it.

It's great to have another restorer of lost causes to share experiences with.

Bob

PS: On those postage stamps. roddie sent me some guidance on how to construct display bases for them. Going to try it out and post results in the future.

"PS:  On those postage stamps.  roddie sent me some guidance on how to construct display bases for them.  Going to try it out and post results in the future."

I'll be watching for that as it's most likely that my product engines will end up as displays someday. The same goes for the Babe Bees. For the RC flying I do, these just aren't as practical as other styles due to their mounting styles, limited fuel capacity, or low power output. I still enjoy having them around, as they represent an important part of Cox model engine history. Sorry to take over your thread. I just got a bit excited.

Regarding runners vs display pieces, my engines will mostly be the latter too. I have so many of them already that I will not even dream about building planes for all of them... Quite the opposite "problem" compared to my youth when I only had one engine and one set of radios that got moved from one plane to another

I like Bob's display stands (the mineral sample holders introduced by our Spanish friend Jose), sadly I don't have "room" (read permission) yet to put up a display case for my engines indoors, but as soon as the workshop/garage gets done, there will be a display of engines somewhere.

I am also interested to see what Roddie has come up with, as I have a few different postage stamp engines to display too.

Not to worry Tee Bee - "Sorry to take over your thread. I just got a bit excited."  I encourage it.  Many people do to my ever-lasting gratitude.  They try to untangle my tangled logic.  

I don't think roddie would mind me sharing his display "postage stamp" mounting cure, seen here:

https://www.coxengineforum.com/privmsg?folder=inbox&mode=read&p=57509

I have started another related thread - "Cox engine rehab, not Frankens" mostly because these become picture heavy and may take a long time for some to load.

Bob