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Splices in Brodak kits
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Splices in Brodak kits
I have to say I absolutely love the modern lazer cut kits. The wood is fantastic (very light), fitment is great, the detailed instructions are perfect for some one of my skill level. I was wondering if anyone new the reason for all the splices TE, LE and spare splices? I imagine it's a material and shipping savings? Is it significant?
I would happily pay a bit more for full spares and shaped leading edges... etc if it was maybe a option. Anyway I'll still be buying these, they fly so darn good and I like to support them.
This is something I like that about vintage performance kits that there is no splices. Just like the vintage kits Stan is reproducing with his own adjustments.
Heres my next project, 6 splices..... but it will be awesome. Haven't decided on power yet. I'm debating between two norvel 0.049s or 2 teedee 0.049s.
![Splices in Brodak kits 20220122](https://i.servimg.com/u/f61/19/81/83/93/20220122.jpg)
I would happily pay a bit more for full spares and shaped leading edges... etc if it was maybe a option. Anyway I'll still be buying these, they fly so darn good and I like to support them.
This is something I like that about vintage performance kits that there is no splices. Just like the vintage kits Stan is reproducing with his own adjustments.
Heres my next project, 6 splices..... but it will be awesome. Haven't decided on power yet. I'm debating between two norvel 0.049s or 2 teedee 0.049s.
![Splices in Brodak kits 20220122](https://i.servimg.com/u/f61/19/81/83/93/20220122.jpg)
layback209- Gold Member
- Posts : 282
Join date : 2017-10-13
Age : 38
Location : Okotoks
Re: Splices in Brodak kits
I will say I have built many Brodak kits. They all have had issues. They also have had quality control issues with wood selection. Yes, I could call them and yes they will and have replaced what was deemed insufficient. The problem is that these kits are no longer $20 and I really shouldn't need to have kit wood replaced. It happens with regular frequency however. Many times the wood is considered punk wood and it's too light with no strength whatsoever. I've had ribs totally vibrate into pieces within the wing on some of these kits. I knew John Brodak personally and I had conversation in regards to some of the issues. Some issues were not quickly recognized and caught prior to the kits being packaged. John was a standup person and would make good over the phone.
Profiles that used solid leading edges in my opinion are far superior to the newer designed 3 piece leading edge wings. The problem with the solid leading edges was obtaining them straight and not heavy. Midwest used to provide 1" solid and they started to increase to $10 a piece for a 3' length and generally were corkscrews.
I have built 3 of the Brodak F-82's. This is a good flying plane however by design it too has flaws. I only have built the older die cut versions in which these were not designed for beam mount engines. The design has the fuse sitting within the center ribs. This is extremely weak and the entire center section flexes far too much. The center portion of the wing should have sheeting top and bottom. The beam mounted version has it's ply doublers too short which is great when your flipping your engines over. You break the noses off right where the doubler stops. This is common sense which they're aware of. I firmly believe this was designed for a wing mounted gear as the ribs reflect the cutout needed for doing so. They idea was scrapped for the POS wire gear which bends on first landing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKJU2VPA5qE John's wife requested that some of us send her a video of our Brodak models flying as a tribute to John. This was my son flying our F-82
Profiles that used solid leading edges in my opinion are far superior to the newer designed 3 piece leading edge wings. The problem with the solid leading edges was obtaining them straight and not heavy. Midwest used to provide 1" solid and they started to increase to $10 a piece for a 3' length and generally were corkscrews.
I have built 3 of the Brodak F-82's. This is a good flying plane however by design it too has flaws. I only have built the older die cut versions in which these were not designed for beam mount engines. The design has the fuse sitting within the center ribs. This is extremely weak and the entire center section flexes far too much. The center portion of the wing should have sheeting top and bottom. The beam mounted version has it's ply doublers too short which is great when your flipping your engines over. You break the noses off right where the doubler stops. This is common sense which they're aware of. I firmly believe this was designed for a wing mounted gear as the ribs reflect the cutout needed for doing so. They idea was scrapped for the POS wire gear which bends on first landing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKJU2VPA5qE John's wife requested that some of us send her a video of our Brodak models flying as a tribute to John. This was my son flying our F-82
Ken Cook- Top Poster
- Posts : 5573
Join date : 2012-03-27
Location : pennsylvania
Re: Splices in Brodak kits
Thanks Ken for sharing that's very valuable to me, couple things I can tweak when I build it. I noticed the punk wood stuff on a 1/2a Zero I built. They haven't come appart yet but may cause me trouble yet. I put a 0.061 on it made beam mounts and my own doubters, held up good so far. The fuse cracked right behind the edge of the wing, CA soaking fixed it for now. I think the monokote I used on thd fuse actually gave it some more strength.
Wow your guys F-82 flys so good. Did you use a wedge tank? I'll definitely add the extra sheeting I did that on the zero as it gave me a spooky feeling.
Interesting about thd difficulties in getting true wood for the LE, jeeze that's pricey and to have non true wood to boot.
Wow your guys F-82 flys so good. Did you use a wedge tank? I'll definitely add the extra sheeting I did that on the zero as it gave me a spooky feeling.
Interesting about thd difficulties in getting true wood for the LE, jeeze that's pricey and to have non true wood to boot.
layback209- Gold Member
- Posts : 282
Join date : 2017-10-13
Age : 38
Location : Okotoks
Re: Splices in Brodak kits
You can tell Shawn flys a lot of Combat…
![Smile](https://2img.net/i/fa/i/smiles/icon_smile.gif)
Cribbs74- Moderator
Posts : 11906
Join date : 2011-10-24
Age : 50
Location : Tuttle, OK
Re: Splices in Brodak kits
Very good video to demonstrate a long flight with not many turns of the pilot in the circle until the last slow laps waiting for fuel to run out. Flying a lot of loops and lazy eights while standing in place... very good way to play and NOT get excessively dizzy
Thanks Ken...interesting to me that this flight is first time (and I have seem most of your videos of Shawn(?) flying) that I noticed he is left handed.
Thanks Ken...interesting to me that this flight is first time (and I have seem most of your videos of Shawn(?) flying) that I noticed he is left handed.
fredvon4- Top Poster
Posts : 4007
Join date : 2011-08-26
Age : 69
Location : Lampasas Texas
Re: Splices in Brodak kits
Hope you have good success with the kit
![Very Happy](https://2img.net/i/fa/i/smiles/icon_biggrin.png)
getback- Top Poster
Posts : 10326
Join date : 2013-01-18
Age : 67
Location : julian , NC
Re: Splices in Brodak kits
Fred, I'm also left handed. I had some elbow surgery a little while back on my left elbow which meant I had to learn to fly right handed. I struggle with this especially when I'm flying inverted. When your a lefty, flying inverted is very natural but when you switch to your opposing hand it becomes quite difficult. There's been times when I got out to the handle and I'm not so sure which hand to pick up the handle. I think it's time for me to try my left hand again.
Ken Cook- Top Poster
- Posts : 5573
Join date : 2012-03-27
Location : pennsylvania
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