A butane torch, containers, some lead and my Graupner Wankel

Thanks pman and Levent.  That's a thought, heat the counterweight with the lead in the holes.  A heat gun should not damage the counter weight but a torch might.  I will try that first.  

Hmm....just remembered, I used a torch to heat the counterweight to remove it from the crankshaft which melted the lead in the first place.  Now, if I don't burn the house down.  

Bob

pman1111 wrote:My thinking was the heat gun would be less likely to discolor the metal, also provide some air movement to keep the vapors away from the user,
Don't breathe the vapors from the melted lead.......


                    Don

Thanks Don, but that ship sailed the first time. I had no idea that those holes were lead filled.

Probably will do it out in the garage with door and windws open. But thanks for the caution, I was going to do it at the kitchen sink. Fire/water you know.

Bob

Well, I cut the lead up into small pieces and tried to even them out between the four holes. Used all the lead that originally came out. Heated with the torch and paddled it around. Close enough but not perfect. Sandblasted (aluminum oxide media) it along with the heat sink ring and the muffler off the OS-30. Gives a frosted look that will be mitigated with a toothbrush and aluminum polish. Looks better than the stained mottled surface of before.

Again, sorry for the poor pictures. This Nikon does not tolerate my shake like the Olympus does. Last picture was when I layed the camera down and just pressed the take button.

pman1111 wrote:If you need a little more lead, I'm sure you have an old shotgun shell to donate a few pellets to the project

Yes, I have scattered a few of those pellets around the hills and valleys of Virginia and West Virginia.

Scratch another one off, it's done except for some time on a test stand.  Not holding out much hope, little to no compression but the fellow in the video, he had almost no compression either so we will see. More of an educational toy for me rather than a functioning engine.  

New 3mm hex heads from China (cheap) installed and cross tightened.  I had ordered #2's for the back case but too small, #3's are too big, but there is a 2.5mm should have ordered those too.  But I found that 2/56's cut to length screw right in so I used those.  Should help out when repairing my European locomotives too.



As received.





Not losing another ten dollar Woodruff.

I'm pretty sure that they were 2/56's, black they were mixed in with my naturals. I have 3/48's but these worked so well I just went with them. Back plate application, not much stress there. I saved two of the phillips head originals.

gkamysz wrote:The parts breakdown I have for this version doesn't list size and the part number didn't come up online at all. The back cover screws are listed as M2.6 in the later engines.

The odds of that hole being M2.2 are zero. If you have 2-56 in the M2.6, I'm quite surprised it didn't strip just snugging it up like the one I just tested did. I've never seen 3-56 in the wild.

Measure the diameter of the screw threads with a mic or caliper to figure out what they are. M2.5 and M2.6 can be hard to differentiate.

Thanks, when I get a chance I will remove the screws and compare the originals against the replacements.  I have a micrometer and I think the proper thread gages.  

andrew wrote:If you're searching for 2.5mm or 2.6mm screws, try Microfasteners.com.  They have screws in both thread sizes, lengths, head types and metals.
I have used them numerous times -- their pricing is competitive and shipping reasonable.

a--

Thanks Andrew, they do have 2.5mm's and assortments which I like. They are also located quite close to me in Easton Pa.

http://www.microfasteners.com/astmet-metric-socket-head-cap-screws..html

Bob @rsv1cox haven't heard from you in a couple weeks, everything OK?

Yes, I'm fine, just nothing going on balsa or glow plug engine wise to post about.

By pure coincidence the person I bought this throttle body/dynamic chamber from on ebay (next to the one that came on the car and I restored)



had tried to buy the same car some 12 years before. Nice to know a person that knows the car and the people that once owned it. He's an RX-7 guy and I have been picking his brain. I just sent him as a surprise gift one of my Graupner Wankels.

Gave up my build log as there wasn't much interest.

rdw777 wrote:Hi Bob!!….Please keep posting your build log…. I may not have a lot in common with it other than it reminds me of my old Z….But it is interesting….. It’s a mechanical gadget  

Robert

Thanks Robert.  It is just an expanded version of one of our glow plug engines, especially the four srokes.   And the car itself, put a bridle and a tether on it and it's a Cox Shrike .  A couple of years ago I photoshopped my MG Midget doing just that.  Got a lot of laughs here.  

Yes, I'm fine, just nothing going on balsa or glow plug engine wise to post about.

I modified that comment slightly..............Yes, I'm fine, just nothing going on balsa or glow plug engine wise to boast about.  

As far as the RX-7.  Fixed - Brakes, Clutch, remote fuel filler door, headlights, fuel pump.  Still to go - Radio doesn't work, blow fuses.  Antenna refuses to go down, turn signals/flasher does not work, drivers side window won't retract, still not running but I just got in new fuel injectors...........etc. etc.

Seller of the throttle body/dynamic chamber just sent me the missing water choke. At the time he listed it he did not notice that it was missing.




Nice guy, knows RX-7's inside out. I'm not sure if he does model engines. Maybe the Wankel I sent him will send him this way.