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Cox Engine of The Month
February-2024
1/2A Nut's

"RC Speed Boat Power Drive TD .020"

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Post  Weaponizer_57 Fri Dec 08, 2023 1:45 pm

Hi

I am restoring an 010 engine. There is corrosion on the prop driver and I want to replace it and clean the crankshaft.

I can easily hook the piston arm and pull the pin off the crank once the fuel tank is off and get the arm out of the way. Do I need to remove the cylinder to take out the crankshaft? I am planning to use a padded vise and prop screw to press out the prop driver rather than hit it with a hammer.

Thanks

Jamie
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Post  rsv1cox Fri Dec 08, 2023 2:55 pm

Be very careful of the .010 Cox engine.  The cylinder is easily distorted, I know from experience.  Heat, the Cox wrench fully inserted in the exhaust ports and patience.  Remove the fuel tank and the prop drive washer and lock, and the intake first.  Unscrew the cylinder then angle and remove the connecting rod/piston. A drop of oil on the cylinder/head helps.  But heat is the key if it's difficult.  Then tap out the crankshaft.  Everything carefully.

You can remove the prop drive washer by first removing the cylinder/piston connecting rod by heating and carefully tapping the prop screw/nut back (I sit the assembly on a solid surface and use a very light tapping hammer) then just lift out the crank shaft.

Cox 010 TeeDee crankshaft removal P1016764

But.........If it's just corrosion you're worried about, I would attempt to clean it first with Alcohol or Marvel Mystery oil and a brush then soak the assembly in alcohol and lubricate.  Disassembling the little .010 is asking for trouble unless your accomplished.

So much effective cleaning can be done just by immersing the engine in alcohol and flipping it over CC and CCW many times.
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Post  balogh Fri Dec 08, 2023 3:31 pm

The easiest way to remove the prop drive plate is to unscrew the aluminum collet with the toothed part of the stock COX wrench, and the collet will push the diveplate off the crankshaft end...if otherwise you do not want to remove the shaft, even the cylinder need not be removed either..this is the safest way I have ever managed, nothing is forced or jeopardized.. cleaning the shaft can be done simply by spraying e.g. brake cleaning fluid into the carb and rotating the shaft a few times..I would not disassemble an 010 unless absolutely necessary..it is easy to damage it and almost impossible to find replacement parts other than the glow head and carb parts..cylinder and piston are unobtanium...I see one combo on ebay at a price that will buy you a pre-owned full engine.
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Post  Weaponizer_57 Fri Dec 08, 2023 3:53 pm

This is great advice. Yes very small, fragile, valuable and old.

I can pull the connecting rod off the crankshaft pin with a small plastic hook and no force. I am thinking to just push the piston up out of the so the connecting rod is clear and change the crankshaft/drive plate with the cylinder left in place.

Ever done this?
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Post  balogh Fri Dec 08, 2023 3:57 pm

Old stock 010-s with the red delrin carb body and black carb came with taper cylinder bore, meaning, that unless the engine is overly worn, the piston will stick at the top dead center and the rod end may still hang into the crankcase, thus hindering the shaft removal..make sure the rod is cleared from the crankshaft's way so as not to jam them together when pushing the shaft out.
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Post  Oldenginerod Fri Dec 08, 2023 4:24 pm

rsv1cox wrote: Cox wrench fully inserted in the exhaust ports

We need to be a little careful with this statement when working with the uninitiated. It's not their fault if they don't follow the terminology, but this could be easily mistaken for meaning stick the wrench into the port, which we know will spell disaster and may easily ruin a cylinder.
The wrench needs to be inserted across the face of the exhaust port, not inserted into it. Even the "correct" method can do damage.
I'll try to find a picture to show what I mean.
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Post  Ken Cook Fri Dec 08, 2023 5:26 pm

I prefer to obtain a prop screw preferably a allen socket screw the same size as the shaft threads. I find a nut that fits onto the prop screw and I obtain a large washer. Place the new prop driver on the shaft, washer on top of it and screw the prop screw with nut in place into the shaft. Make certain your prop screw is in by a fair amount and now back the nut down onto the washer. Use a allen key to hold the prop screw and with a small wrench back the nut off which will press the drive washer onto the shaft. It will install the driver square whereas other methods will leave it cocked and it will wobble.
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Post  Weaponizer_57 Fri Dec 08, 2023 6:28 pm

That is a great technique. Thank you. I will do it that way..

And yes. I know not to stick anything into the exhaust ports.
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Post  Mudhen Fri Dec 08, 2023 7:13 pm

Ken Cook wrote:          I prefer to obtain a prop screw preferably a allen socket screw the same size as the shaft threads. I find a nut that fits onto the prop screw and I obtain a large washer. Place the new prop driver on the shaft, washer on top of it and screw the prop screw with nut in place into the shaft. Make certain your prop screw is in by a fair amount and now back the nut down onto the washer. Use a allen key to hold the prop screw and with a small wrench back the nut off which will press the drive washer onto the shaft. It will install the driver square whereas other methods will leave it cocked and it will wobble.
As a personal technique, I super-cool the crankshaft before installation.
After you restore the crankshaft, rub in some light machine oil to thoroughly cover the crankshaft.
Throw it in the freezer for 3-4 hours, (more time for larger shafts.)
When ready to install it will be sufficiently shrunk.
This allows the drive plate to more easily align with the knurling, and less pressure is required to press the drive plate in place.
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Post  Weaponizer_57 Fri Dec 08, 2023 9:53 pm

I will do that as well.
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Post  Yabby Sat Dec 09, 2023 4:19 am

great idea mudhen @Mudhen as to chilling the crank to make pressing on the drive plate easier Thumbs Up
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