1/2-A flat-wing adj. lead-out guide

I made these years ago using thin sheet-stock of either; brass, formica or thin polycarbonate, 1 Popsicle stick, 1/8" sq. spruce/basswood strip-stock and short (1/4"L.) #2 screws and a very sm. slotted screwdriver.  

Cut a strip of the sheet-stock with scissors; about 5/16"w. and a little shorter than your wing-tip's chord. Draw a line across the length of the strip... about 3/16" in from one edge.

Leaving 1/2" on ea. side; use a Dremel tool/cut-off wheel to cut "slots" every 1/4" along the strip; 3/16" deep (the drawn line) until it resembles a "rake" or "comb"... Drill the screw-holes (3/32" drill; which is the approx. sz. for #2 wood/mach. screws) in each end; about 1/4" in... "on center". This we will call the "guide-strip"

Cut the 1/8" sq. spruce/basswood "stick"... to approx. the same length as the slotted guide-strip. We'll call this the "bridge"

You will see; that when placing on a flat surface with the "bridge" up against the "slotted guide strip" (strip standing on it's edge- slots facing down) that it forms a series of positions for your lead-outs. The "bridge" has 2 functions; keeps lead-outs off the wing and close's the vertical gap in the slots.

Cut the Popsicle stick into 2 short equal lengths; depending on your wing's thickness at the tip, and drill your #2 screw's "pilot" hole (5/64" drill for "either" a wood screw or a mach. screw)  in ea. one. These are the "mounts" for the slotted guide-strip, and will be glued into the wing.

Once mounted; the slotted guide-strip should stand on edge (slots "down" if on top of the wing... slots "up" if on bottom of the wing) Glue the 1/8" square-stock bridge "up against" the slotted guide-strip.

"Adjustments" involve; simply removing "one" of the mounting screws... and loosening the other to "swing the guide open" (exposing the slots). Reposition the lead-out(s) and "close"/re-mount the guide.

You "could" use heavier mat'l. for the guide-strip if you're flying "combat" perhaps... but it's really not necessary; as there are minimal forces at work "vertically" on the lead-outs, compared to the forces on the "bellcrank/mount".

Photos below; show a "bottom-mount" on my little combat ship.





Note; you could use this design on a built-up wing as well... by first; cutting your guide to match the model's airfoil at the wingtip. The "bridge" will conform to the camber if you CA glue it.