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Cox Engine of The Month
August-2024
balogh's
![](https://i.servimg.com/u/f95/15/46/86/41/1_balo14.jpg)
"Cox TD09 R/C Beast of Burden featuring Kamtechnik head and DIY metallic fuel nipple"
![](https://i.servimg.com/u/f95/15/46/86/41/sponso12.png)
PAST WINNERS
balogh's
![](https://i.servimg.com/u/f95/15/46/86/41/1_balo14.jpg)
"Cox TD09 R/C Beast of Burden featuring Kamtechnik head and DIY metallic fuel nipple"
![](https://i.servimg.com/u/f95/15/46/86/41/sponso12.png)
PAST WINNERS
1/2-A flat-wing adj. lead-out guide
Page 1 of 1
1/2-A flat-wing adj. lead-out guide
I made these years ago using thin sheet-stock of either; brass, formica or thin polycarbonate, 1 Popsicle stick, 1/8" sq. spruce/basswood strip-stock and short (1/4"L.) #2 screws and a very sm. slotted screwdriver.
Cut a strip of the sheet-stock with scissors; about 5/16"w. and a little shorter than your wing-tip's chord. Draw a line across the length of the strip... about 3/16" in from one edge.
Leaving 1/2" on ea. side; use a Dremel tool/cut-off wheel to cut "slots" every 1/4" along the strip; 3/16" deep (the drawn line) until it resembles a "rake" or "comb"... Drill the screw-holes (3/32" drill; which is the approx. sz. for #2 wood/mach. screws) in each end; about 1/4" in... "on center". This we will call the "guide-strip"
Cut the 1/8" sq. spruce/basswood "stick"... to approx. the same length as the slotted guide-strip. We'll call this the "bridge"
You will see; that when placing on a flat surface with the "bridge" up against the "slotted guide strip" (strip standing on it's edge- slots facing down) that it forms a series of positions for your lead-outs. The "bridge" has 2 functions; keeps lead-outs off the wing and close's the vertical gap in the slots.
Cut the Popsicle stick into 2 short equal lengths; depending on your wing's thickness at the tip, and drill your #2 screw's "pilot" hole (5/64" drill for "either" a wood screw or a mach. screw) in ea. one. These are the "mounts" for the slotted guide-strip, and will be glued into the wing.
Once mounted; the slotted guide-strip should stand on edge (slots "down" if on top of the wing... slots "up" if on bottom of the wing) Glue the 1/8" square-stock bridge "up against" the slotted guide-strip.
"Adjustments" involve; simply removing "one" of the mounting screws... and loosening the other to "swing the guide open" (exposing the slots). Reposition the lead-out(s) and "close"/re-mount the guide.
You "could" use heavier mat'l. for the guide-strip if you're flying "combat" perhaps... but it's really not necessary; as there are minimal forces at work "vertically" on the lead-outs, compared to the forces on the "bellcrank/mount".
Photos below; show a "bottom-mount" on my little combat ship.
![1/2-A flat-wing adj. lead-out guide Slotte10](https://i.servimg.com/u/f76/18/50/45/90/slotte10.jpg)
![1/2-A flat-wing adj. lead-out guide Slotte11](https://i.servimg.com/u/f76/18/50/45/90/slotte11.jpg)
Note; you could use this design on a built-up wing as well... by first; cutting your guide to match the model's airfoil at the wingtip. The "bridge" will conform to the camber if you CA glue it.
Cut a strip of the sheet-stock with scissors; about 5/16"w. and a little shorter than your wing-tip's chord. Draw a line across the length of the strip... about 3/16" in from one edge.
Leaving 1/2" on ea. side; use a Dremel tool/cut-off wheel to cut "slots" every 1/4" along the strip; 3/16" deep (the drawn line) until it resembles a "rake" or "comb"... Drill the screw-holes (3/32" drill; which is the approx. sz. for #2 wood/mach. screws) in each end; about 1/4" in... "on center". This we will call the "guide-strip"
Cut the 1/8" sq. spruce/basswood "stick"... to approx. the same length as the slotted guide-strip. We'll call this the "bridge"
You will see; that when placing on a flat surface with the "bridge" up against the "slotted guide strip" (strip standing on it's edge- slots facing down) that it forms a series of positions for your lead-outs. The "bridge" has 2 functions; keeps lead-outs off the wing and close's the vertical gap in the slots.
Cut the Popsicle stick into 2 short equal lengths; depending on your wing's thickness at the tip, and drill your #2 screw's "pilot" hole (5/64" drill for "either" a wood screw or a mach. screw) in ea. one. These are the "mounts" for the slotted guide-strip, and will be glued into the wing.
Once mounted; the slotted guide-strip should stand on edge (slots "down" if on top of the wing... slots "up" if on bottom of the wing) Glue the 1/8" square-stock bridge "up against" the slotted guide-strip.
"Adjustments" involve; simply removing "one" of the mounting screws... and loosening the other to "swing the guide open" (exposing the slots). Reposition the lead-out(s) and "close"/re-mount the guide.
You "could" use heavier mat'l. for the guide-strip if you're flying "combat" perhaps... but it's really not necessary; as there are minimal forces at work "vertically" on the lead-outs, compared to the forces on the "bellcrank/mount".
Photos below; show a "bottom-mount" on my little combat ship.
![1/2-A flat-wing adj. lead-out guide Slotte10](https://i.servimg.com/u/f76/18/50/45/90/slotte10.jpg)
![1/2-A flat-wing adj. lead-out guide Slotte11](https://i.servimg.com/u/f76/18/50/45/90/slotte11.jpg)
Note; you could use this design on a built-up wing as well... by first; cutting your guide to match the model's airfoil at the wingtip. The "bridge" will conform to the camber if you CA glue it.
![-](https://2img.net/i/empty.gif)
» flat framed construction
» Ring Master Gold KIt
» *SOLD* Walt Musciano Scientific "Red Tiger P-40" kit
» P-38 Lightning-Roddie style..
» Lead Out Wire
» Ring Master Gold KIt
» *SOLD* Walt Musciano Scientific "Red Tiger P-40" kit
» P-38 Lightning-Roddie style..
» Lead Out Wire
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