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Post  WingingIt74 Tue Nov 12, 2013 9:42 am

Here is the method I used to clean up the Shrike I just got this past Sunday. It does take time, but it does not harm the plastic. I use old model fuel I have laying around, lots of paper towels and q-tips.

Tip: Cleaning up Cox Models that are covered in gunk 1000617_10151668929725947_941578127_n

5 hours of a little elbow grease and took the whole thing apart and put back together.
Tip: Cleaning up Cox Models that are covered in gunk 1459268_10151668171720947_1335577312_n

I usually wipe them down afterward with a multi-surface cleaner to clean it up afterwards.
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Post  alpinewarren Wed Nov 13, 2013 4:44 pm

Looks great!
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Post  SuperDave Wed Nov 13, 2013 5:59 pm

Isopopyl alcohol works well too.  It's available at any drug store and is far less expensive than glo-fuel by volume.  Something like than $3/quart.

SD
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Post  G.O. Stang Thu Nov 21, 2013 10:55 pm

How about models were the old fuel has stained the plastic? How deep does the staining go? Could I be removed by. Light wet sand? I've got a shrike I'm trying to restore and I cleaned it exactly how you did. But there's some reddish spots(yellow shrike) that appear to be permanent.
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Post  WingingIt74 Fri Nov 22, 2013 8:33 am

I don't think you can get that type of staining out... I may be wrong though.
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Post  SuperDave Fri Nov 22, 2013 9:40 am

GO:

Start with the LEAST aggressive cleaning agent and move upward until possible minor damge seems about to occur.

SD
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Post  pkrankow Fri Nov 22, 2013 9:47 am

If you look up "restoring yellowed computer plastics" they talk about cleaning plastic and removing discoloration. Might be worth looking into...

"retr0bright" http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/

Phil
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Post  Mark Boesen Fri Nov 22, 2013 9:56 am

It depends how bad it is, always try to test a less obvious spot first. I've wet sanded plastic before and it can work, start with 400-600 and move to a 800-1200 grit, finish with a rubbing compound. The problem then becomes you often end up with a overly glossy plastic, but if it will look better go for it.

I've found a dry clean piece of a really soft terry cloth towel and elbow grease will give you the best 'factory' shine.

As far a cleaners go, if it works use it, seems like everybody has their favorite. I would be careful of using fuel, I've done that before and had it discolor the canopies, but was able to rub out.
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Last edited by Mark Boesen on Fri Nov 22, 2013 10:31 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post  G.O. Stang Fri Nov 22, 2013 10:05 am

Mark Boesen wrote: It depends how bad it is, always try to test a less obvious spot first. I've wet sanded plastic before and it can work, start with 400-600 and move to a 800-1200 grit, finish with a rubbing compound. The problem then becomes you often end up with a overly glossy plastic, but if it will look better go for it.

I've found a dry clean piece of a really soft terry cloth towel and elbow grease will give you the best 'factory' shine.

As far a cleaners go, if it works use it, seems like everybody has their favorite. I would be careful of using fuel, I've done that before and had it discolor the canopies, but was able to rub out.
I actually used alcohol and it worked alright. I've actually got to get a new canopy for it so that's not an issue. Like I said, my main issue is the fuel stains. It's a first issue shrike without the aluminum bar so I'd like to see it back the way it was. I know they also reproduce the stickers.
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Post  Mark Boesen Fri Nov 22, 2013 10:35 am

the plastic on the Shrike is pretty soft, same stuff as the Rivets and others made during that time, maybe hit the stains with rubbing compound first.

I remember wanting one of those green Shrikes as a kid in the early 70's.
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Post  G.O. Stang Fri Nov 22, 2013 10:41 am

Mark Boesen wrote:the plastic on the Shrike is pretty soft, same stuff as the Rivets and others made during that time, maybe hit the stains with rubbing compound first.

I remember wanting one of those green Shrikes as a kid in the early 70's.
Unfortunately I already tried a rubbing compound. Didn't really do anything.
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Post  SuperDave Fri Nov 22, 2013 10:58 am

GO:

Rather than rubbing compoud try polishing compound which has a finer grit. Both are found in automotive parts stores.

SD
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Post  G.O. Stang Fri Nov 22, 2013 12:09 pm

SuperDave wrote:GO:

Rather than rubbing compoud try polishing compound which has a finer grit.  Both are found in automotive parts stores.

SD
Actually I stand corrected. Did use a polishing compound. Maybe I'll try a rubbing compound before I resort to the sandpaper.
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Post  SuperDave Fri Nov 22, 2013 12:20 pm

GO:

Tried ISOPROPHYL alcohol yet? It'll penerate and disolve "goo" rather than grind it away like an abrasive. It's best applied with a gause pad and rubbed into the goo.

I suggest giving it a try.

SD.
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Post  G.O. Stang Fri Nov 22, 2013 12:32 pm

SuperDave wrote:GO:

Tried ISOPROPHYL alcohol yet?  It'll penerate and disolve "goo" rather than grind it away like an abrasive.  It's best applied with a gause pad and rubbed into the goo.

I suggest giving it a try.

SD.
That's what I originally used. It cleaned up everything but the stains. And used some purple power to clean out the inside of the body halves. Worked fine.
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Post  cmoore2963 Fri Feb 18, 2022 3:24 pm

I recently found an old Shrike.  The yellow plastic is pretty badly faded in places.  Is there any way to bring the color back?  I thought about trying headlight polishing kit.  I have also seen some references to brasso or mr clean eraser sponges.  Any suggestions?  Thanks in advance!
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Post  davidll1984 Sun Feb 20, 2022 8:41 am

I've never tried but apparently you can color the plastic with certin dye But I've already polished plastic with automotive products it work just fine I had removed the discoloration with a fine sandpaper first  It is a work that must be done slowly with the hands.Above all, do not use a polisher machines just à good hand and patience first One thing you can do is. First use wD40 everywhere on the screws to disassemble them, the longer you leave them to act, the better. After soak in hot water Not To hot for à day than re aply  wd40 put  wd al over it for 24 To 48 h It restores lost flexibility of that tipe of plastiques it Prevent plastic from cracking I have already heard of a product made to restore flexibility to plastics but I do not know them. Just Takes the time to do things right and find the right ways Small Cox Logo Babe Bee .049 Thumbs Up Tip: Cleaning up Cox Models that are covered in gunk Img_2281
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Post  cmoore2963 Sun Feb 20, 2022 9:09 am

Thanks!
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