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Off topic cuz it is...Fox 35 and S1 Ringmaster Empty
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Off topic cuz it is...Fox 35 and S1 Ringmaster

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Off topic cuz it is...Fox 35 and S1 Ringmaster Empty Off topic cuz it is...Fox 35 and S1 Ringmaster

Post  fredvon4 Sun Mar 27, 2016 3:29 pm

OK my ARF Ringmaster (Mike Griffin) is about ready

My NIB Fox 35 is about broke in

I know Ken, Ron, and Kim (not sure how many other here) have experience with this plane and combo

AUW 27.5 Oz

I am posting this to three forums...SH, Here, BHOTR

Preferred line length
Preferred CG location
Prefered max elevator deflection
Preferred prop
Preferred Fuel mix
Preferred Handel spacing (assume 3 inch BC)...all my handles are NOT hard point.... Have an order in for a HP Handle but out of stock right now

Buddy Sean McEntee will do Maiden and trimming flights ( very cool guy and has a dead OIL soaked RM that he can still get 500 poiints out of with a ragged out Fox 35

I have NOT flown a CL Plane in 26 months so zero muscle memory

I solicit any and all opinions and advice

This airplane is the one (first ever for me) that me and my dad built around 1958~ 1959 when I was 3.5 or 4 Years old

I would greatly prefer to not re-kit this model so now that we can all share I think I can (with your help) eliminate any initial mistakes

Should I just bite the re gasket bill and install a anti burp plug from the get go or Hope my engine does not quit in and bad flight position?

PS Highlite all these words...cntrl C and they are ready to post elsewhere




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Post  Cribbs74 Sun Mar 27, 2016 6:31 pm

58ft actual line length, CG as per plans, no more than 25 degrees on the elevator and I hope you used the inner hole on the bellcrank as this will be hard to achieve if not. A really long elevator horn will help.

I like the APC 10/5 prop for our altitude. Powermaster GMA 10/22 fuel. Handle spacing 3" (Hot Rock)

Sean will be able to work out the trimming, never seen him fly, but I have flown with his dad. Your model is in good hands.

Ron

Edit: don't mess with the bypass. It may burp, but don't worry. Use a good plug! Thunderbolt RC long is my choice. They work excellent and last a long time.
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Post  Kim Sun Mar 27, 2016 8:15 pm

Can't add anything to Ron's great advice.  Just Good Luck and Good Flying !!!!!!!!
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Post  getback Sun Mar 27, 2016 10:46 pm

I don't know S from shine o la but at least you are asking and have someone to get it trimmed for you . Hope things go well Fred and remember its all about having FUN!!! Airplane Eric sleep
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Post  fredvon4 Mon Nov 07, 2016 2:47 pm

This plane was flown first by Sean McEntee and we found a wing warp that my wildly changing humidity could not perfectly solve so a trim tab was set on outboard wing

It was flown on 67' linse and just right lap speed for me but as noted by others too slow for real good line tension...then again I don't fly the PAMPA pattern so don't too much care about perfect trim for overhead maneuver that I don't even attempt

Since the trimming flights with Sean I have flown this model 6 times and landed it without damage..progressing to 65 then 62 foot lines...I have a set made up 60" but not tried yet

The Fox 35 without burp plug starts and flies it just fine

To prevent much carnage to this model I fly the RST RM variant a lot more... This winter I intend to complete two other Ringmasters from Pat Johnston...another lighter S-1 version and his adapted 526 sq inch version for a Evo 36 engine
I would like to say, the Mike Griffin ARF built RM is a good toy to play with and since he no longer takes orders for these I know the Brodak ARF (IC or Electric) is a very good product also

You all have about a year to get any variant Ringmaster to add to next year's Fly A Thin totals

Yes a challenge as I have three flying and 2 to be finished

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Post  Ken Cook Mon Nov 07, 2016 3:27 pm

You can buy Phil Cartier true Ringmaster wings for $10. You can build it for around $20. You can also cover it with covering that stays on.
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Post  fredvon4 Mon Nov 07, 2016 3:48 pm

Yes Ken and I have two sets of the cores here already

The more I fuss with these airplanes the more I love the simplicity of a foam cored wing...

Between my OCD and the wild humidity I can not seem to ever build a perfectly straight balsa wing no matter how much I invest in jigs... arg!

I know there is a weight penalty with the finished foam wing set but it is NOT that much...and the tricks I learned from you and Jeff for combat wings make them so much MORE survivable in the figure 9 I am so prone to
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Post  Mark Boesen Mon Nov 07, 2016 4:05 pm

Great thread, here's something you might look at, kind of the best of both worlds, it was called 'Lost foam method'. I built a Sig Magnum wing (but never finished plane) this way and it was significantly lighter.

http://www.aeromaniacs.com/pdf/Bob%20Hunt%20Sheeting%20Wing.pdf

The biggest diff with the lost foam method is the open bay area is not sheeted, saving weight.


Last edited by Mark Boesen on Mon Nov 07, 2016 9:20 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post  Mark Boesen Mon Nov 07, 2016 9:18 pm

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Post  Kim Tue Nov 08, 2016 5:43 am

Yes! Great Thread!!!! 'As the Ringmaster Turns'!!!
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