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Post  ticomareado Fri May 11, 2018 12:57 pm

I am interested in restoring/reconfiguring paint schemes on a couple of RTF projects and would like to know just what kind of somewhat fuel proof paints Cox and Wen Mac used on certain models-- e.g. camouflaged Cox P-40 and Spitfire, camouflaged Wen-Mac P-63 and orange trim on AT-6 Texan, Dauntless etc.

What will work for getting this done that's easily available and won't ruin the plane and still be at least as fuel proof as the old factory stuff?

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Post  Mark Boesen Sat May 12, 2018 10:24 am

it was probably a quick drying lacquer and it definitely wasn't fuel proof. I think i lost half the paint on my Miss America after a half dozen flights.
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Post  KariFS Sat May 12, 2018 10:35 am

I would try paints meant for plastic models, you know, the static type that Revell, Monogram and such make or made. There is about gazillion different colours, gloss, satin and matt, clearcoats and so on. They come in little cans about 1oz, can be thinned and sprayed with a small paint gun. Spray cans are also available, not so many shades though.

The plastic of the RTFs seems to be the same (polystyrene) as is used for the static models, and those paints can stand fuel (well at least castor residues) at least somewhat. They definitely won’t damage the plastic, and they should also stick pretty well on clean plastic. Do stay away from the water-based model paints though. At least my experience on them is not positive.

And as usual YMMV, and do let us know how it goes Thumbs Up
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Post  akjgardner Sat May 12, 2018 8:54 pm

I have found Krylon Paints to be Fuel Proof and also stick well to plastics


Last edited by akjgardner on Sun May 13, 2018 1:57 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post  Mark Boesen Sat May 12, 2018 9:18 pm

yep, i've used that, i'm sure it's more fuel proof then the stuff from 50 years ago and quick drying. Be sure to note if you're needing gloss, semi-gloss (satin) or flat. Here a Corsair that was so bad i painted the whole thing. gloss dark blue, should've done a semi gloss or flat.

Paint used by Cox and Wen-Mac on RTF models 3-29-011
Paint used by Cox and Wen-Mac on RTF models 4_12_010
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Post  944_Jim Sat May 12, 2018 9:51 pm

Mark,
That is some restoration job! What glue did you use?
Could the plane fly again? I'm reasonably sure it was rebuilt as a static model...

AKJ (and/or other Krylon users),
Is there any particular Krylon that I need to find? How long until it cures fuel-proof?
I thought it was the Rustoleums that were fuel-proof.
I ask because my dope stash is drying up.

Thanks in advance!

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Post  Mark Boesen Sat May 12, 2018 10:16 pm

i think krylon and rustoleum are pretty close, rustoleum might be more fuel proof, i've use rustoleum on some basla stuff, canopies, etc. I use both a liquid plastic glue to soften edges and Testors plastic glue, which has some gap filling i'm sure epoxy would work as well. Use popsicle sticks and small plastic clamps to keep wing straight while curing, sand and paint, automotive filler putty helps too. I'f its never gonna fly again use CA, its a lot quicker.

I'd go with this, as i haven't run a glow engine on a painted plane in 15+ years, i remember years ago Rustoleum was the ticket.
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Post  ticomareado Sun May 13, 2018 9:27 am

Any way to use carbon fiber tape to fix a busted plastic wing and make it smooth enough to be almost indiscernible?
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Post  GallopingGhostler Sun May 13, 2018 9:59 am

ticomareado wrote:Any way to use carbon fiber tape to fix a busted plastic wing and make it smooth enough to be almost indiscernible?

I can see how you could pull off this repair with carbon fiber tape by careful feathering with filler products. I've done such dent repairs in autos and motorcycles.

2013 Yamaha V-Star 1300 front fender, after dent rough out and Bondo (light pink), sand, fill imperfections with spot putty (orange):
Paint used by Cox and Wen-Mac on RTF models Front_10

Prime, sand away futher touch up with spot putty:
Paint used by Cox and Wen-Mac on RTF models Frt_fe11

Final result with 2 coats Dupont Ful-Thane 2 part auto paint:
Paint used by Cox and Wen-Mac on RTF models Frt_fe10

Depending on where the break is, a light coat of Bondo plastic body filler touched up with spot putty carefully block sanded (you might have to make your own curved sanding block) and feathered away sufficiently, may be up to a couple inches would do it. Under-surface would be easiest. Top surface, you may run into difficulties such as filling and sanding away rivet and panel line details, which would have to be added back for an OEM look.

Spot putty has solvents that may soften the plastic if applied too thick, so would have to exercise caution. However, others have managed to use it with startling results.

Anyway, YMMV (you mileage may vary).
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Post  Geist Flieger Sun May 13, 2018 12:01 pm

Try Top Flite Lustrekote as long as your not spraying foam models.
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