WANTED running tips for the RR-1

One thing I have found that helps with search is click on Google instead of Inside then Go.
I have had trouble with Inside search lately.



https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&as_q=&as_oq=RR-1&as_sitesearch=www.coxengineforum.com

Levent Suberk wrote:http://sceptreflight.com/Model%20Engine%20Tests/Cox%20Thimbledrome%20RR-1.html

According to that article in the June 1959 Flying Models magazine, the RR-1 had respectable power. It is showing 0.092 BHP at 18,000 RPM:



This is on high nitro Cox fuel (25 or 30%?). In contrast, the Golden Bee put out 0.062 BHP at 14,000 RPM on 15% nitro.    


Interestingly enough, two decades later, the Bill Netzeband designed Testor's 8000 reed valve engine produced the same BHP at 18,000 RPM on 15% nitro fuel.

Testors 8000 Engine Review by Peter G.F. Chinn, April 1978 MAN:
http://sceptreflight.com/Model%20Engine%20Tests/Testors%208000.html




So, I guess if the Cox RR-1 is out of reach cost wise,  
then opt for a good Testor's 8000 engine.


Goldberg Swordsman 18 with Testor's 8000 engine.

Don't break it especially the rotor in the back that is turned by the crank or you will have a display model in short order . There i am going to say impossible to get with out purchasing another engine Have you tore the engines down to see what you got ? Use appropriate fuel 25-35% Nitro 20 % castor and the right prop not to overload will help and don't just let it scream on the bench if you do that run .

An interesting original sport design posted in Oct. 1958 Flying Models Magazine is based on using two RR-1's in a push-pull configuration.

Outerzone: 54" Tandem Bomber (oz3386)





Today if I were to build, would probably consider decorating as a Canadian Bombardier in fire fighting colors, used to dump copious quantities of water to douse forest fires. It resembles that type of plane. Also, if rudder only using today's radios, I'd extend the moveable rudder to the top, doubling its area for stunts. A bit out of the unusual plus larger, it would be an attention setter wherever flown, including S.M.A.L.L. in Arkansas.

And, if one showed up at a flying field especially with two RR-1's mounted, given their rarity as hen's teeth


would be an extremely rare sight to behold.

I have an old book with that plan on the back of it

Hello everyone

I recently picked up an RR-1 on eBay. It looks like a solid motor, and I decided to restore it to use as a runner since it's used. It's got great compression for its age, and I started it and he engine fired up nicely but it would not stay running for very long. It turned out that the bottom area of the backplate/ fuel bowl seal was damaged. I used a spare fuel tank gasket from the oversized Tee Dee .020 red aluminum tank to fix that issue, and it did the trick - bye bye leaking tank.

I have a big question - What kind of run time should I expect to see out of the RR-1? I know that it looks like a regular 8cc tank, but it's not and carries a bit less, so please don't be lazy and reply with "same as a Golden Bee" because they are not the same engines performance-wise. Also I'm using Cox's high compression glow head.

Here is about everything you will want to know about the RR-1 , but about the run time your best bet is to set it up the way your going to run it and test it that way . Sorry but i have ran one but didn't time it and will matter as far as what application you use it in >>> https://www.coxengineforum.com/t7879-early-rr-1

Rusty had his running well, he talks about run time. Looks like about a minute and a half.

I would bet that Rusty's RR-1 was running pretty economically on fuel due to the muffler. Because he was flying in the church lot, he was concerned in regards to noise. I did indeed fly that Lil Satan, I just don't recall the run time.

Looking at the RR-1 tank, looks very 8 cc like. A photo of a prototype late 1970's R/C Bee engine showed an adapted RR-1 valve system mounted in proximity of the reed valve system in the front of the tank, which replaced it on the production version. It looked very compact, able to fit in the confines of the reed valve system.

Gauging by that, it most likely has the same capacity of the 8 cc reed valve tank, but I could be wrong.

Since consumption numbers are depended upon a number of factors, if you want real numbers, why not bench mount the engine, put a recommended prop that won't overspeed or underspeed and stress it, tach it and time it? I think that will give you the information for use in your particular situation.

getback wrote:Here is about everything you will want to know about the RR-1 , but about the run time your best bet is to set it up the way your going to run it and test it that way . Sorry but i have ran one but didn't time it and will matter as far as what application you use it in >>> https://www.coxengineforum.com/t7879-early-rr-1  

Thank you kindly for the link. When did you have your RR-1? How long did you have it?

OH I still have it but have not ran it in a pretty good while , seems i have had it 7-8 yrs. Your welcome for the link it is one of the better one on the RR-1 , yeah you don't want to stress this engine out on a bench run ,could possibly break the rotary in it and very hard part to come buy   from this thread check out Ian's RR-1 collection (makes me sick) LMAO coxengineforum.com/t7847-cox-rr1-anybody

Thanks for sharing, Eric. @Ian1954 certainly has a sense of humor, like you said.

https://www.coxengineforum.com/t7847-cox-rr1-anybody#99066

ian1954 on Feb 15, 2015 wrote:However - BEWARE (A warning from a previous posting!) The RR1 is certainly a popular engine but I wouldn't describe it as "rare". They breed like rabbits and can be stressful to manage. [...] However, remember to separate them quickly before you are overrun.


Also be ruthless - some of them don't turn out quite right!

He let a Golden Bee squeak by!    

A dozen RR-1's, wow! How does a wife live with such a guy? It's like with me and my saxes!

I too have a RR with the ribbed crankcase and tank. Though I respect it as an antique engine, I slso find it vulnerable because of the tiny drive pin that either wears off more quickly than the rest of the rotating parts, or is lost when you disassemble the engine

balogh wrote:I too have a RR with the ribbed crankcase and tank. Though I respect it as an antique engine, I slso find it vulnerable because of the tiny drive pin that either wears off more quickly than the rest of the rotating parts, or is lost when you disassemble the engine

Wow - thanks! I probably bought the last valve disk as a spare from EX model immediately after I won the auction.

And by the way - that drive pin doesn't come off on mine; it's one piece and part of the crankshaft on mine, so I have no idea what you're talking about.

???

I need to disassemble mine to check again..I was under the impression the pin was a separate part..but maybe my memory does not serve me right.

Yea if the pin comes out its broken cause thats on the crankshaft and extended to catch the rotor see pics^^^^ there

getback wrote:Don't break it especially the rotor in the back that is turned by the crank or you will have a display model in short order . There i am going to say impossible to get with out purchasing another engine  Have you tore the engines down to see what you got ? Use appropriate fuel 25-35% Nitro  20 % castor and the right prop not to overload will help and don't just let it scream on the bench if you do that run .

Some years back I bought an RR1 and on dismantling to clean and check - no rear rotor! So borrowed an RR1 and made a rotor from silver steel (drill rod blank material in the USA) hardened and lapped to precise size in the front end of the tank. Have the part drawn and tooling still so could make one if required.

Under test my RR1 was quite powerful but curiously had a tendency to back fire and throw off the prop. No longer have it as it got sold to help fund a move.

aeroland wrote:

getback wrote:Don't break it especially the rotor in the back that is turned by the crank or you will have a display model in short order . There i am going to say impossible to get with out purchasing another engine  Have you tore the engines down to see what you got ? Use appropriate fuel 25-35% Nitro  20 % castor and the right prop not to overload will help and don't just let it scream on the bench if you do that run .

Some years back I bought an RR1 and on dismantling to clean and check - no rear rotor!   So borrowed an RR1 and made a rotor from silver steel (drill rod blank material in the USA)  hardened and lapped to precise size in the front end of the tank.  Have the part drawn and tooling still so could make one if required.

Under test my RR1 was quite powerful but curiously had a tendency to back fire and throw off the prop.  No longer have it as it got sold to help fund a move.

Thanks for the offer but I bought the last rotor drum from Ex Models immediately after getting the engine.
I think that will keep me going forever since I can do the same exact thing, and copy the actual part, brand new from its blister pack.
Sounds to me like your posting would get better replies in the wanted/for sale section