Surprise & Disappointment -Easy Built Models

My first ever was an Easy Built Wildcat. Printwood as well. Ironically, I have just aquired a double kit from Diels Engineering and it too is all on printwood.

I'll be interested in how you proceed Richard. I too have an old Comet P38 Lightning kit that is printed on wood. I didn't know that until I received it and opened the box.



I have a Dremel scroll-saw which will help.. but it will still be a laborious task to cut-out all those little pieces, while trying not to break any of them.

Good Luck Richard... (fishing season is just around the corner...   )

That was part of the fun, cutting out the pieces for the next structure to be worked, then assemble. My repro kit for the 1941 Vanguard 66 F/F is exactly like the Comet, except pieces are 4 times larger and thicker. That will be fun. The Flyline kits were similar. At least one cannot blame poor die cutting with these kits.

Thanks to everyone for the fast Replys And to Roddy, I will be getting my fishing gear ready!
RK Flyer

roddie wrote:I have a Dremel scroll-saw which will help.. but it will still be a laborious task to cut-out all those little pieces, while trying not to break any of them.

You don't need the scroll-saw. There is a technique to cutting out the parts. You need a sharp knife blade. I used to halve my father's double edge razor blades by bending back and forth until it broke into two. then take a set of dykes, bend a sharp tip on one side until it broke. Harder balsa requires a couple swipes until you have penetrated the depth.

Yes, it takes some time to work your way until the part is freed, but 58 years ago as a kid, we didn't have computers, cellphones, etc. My parents had an AM 5 tube (valve) table radio in the kitchen, and a tube 25 inch black and white TV in the living room. I was busy cutting away at the kitchen / dining table, when I wasn't playing outside. (We only had one table - 3 bedroom house for our family of 6, my 1 year younger brother shared a bunk in my bedroom, my younger brother and sister shared a bunk in the other). We had time, because we didn't have any other time wasters.

I think Bob @rsv1cox has the right idea. He spends most of his time working on stuff, not the 'net. Gets a lot of stuff done. Just saying.

I can imagine your disappointment RK when you saw all of that print wood when you opened the box…. I’ve had a few of those too…. Some simple tools that may help…. If your design has notched formers make up some notching tools with sandpaper glued to the edge of a piece of balsa the same width as the notch…. Also some stops to control depth…. Much easier and neater than trying to cut them out…



When cutting the parts out just come close to the line and finish by sanding to the line…. You can make up a bunch of random shapes and grits to suit the need…Sanding in a little scallop on the formers between stringers will prevent the starved horse look after covering…. Cutting the parts out on a sheet of glass will help the tip of the knife last longer…. Good luck with your projects!!!

On the old die cut kits and the printed kits , I wet the wood and cut the pieces out with a pair of curved scissors. They come out real nice and it is a lot faster. I just cut out an old comet superstars p 40 kit last night

akjgardner wrote:On the old die cut kits and the printed kits , I wet the wood and cut the pieces out with a pair of curved scissors. They come out real nice and it is a lot faster. I just cut out an old comet superstars p 40 kit last night

Well, isn't that quite an idea. Never would have thought. Very interesting.

Interesting methodology, @akjgardner, never tried that before.

I remember cutting pieces from Comet kits. The balsa was as hard as basswood, tough going, but still seemed to make a nice flyer especially with their lighter framed kits. Guillow was another story, glide of a rock.

Yes, the water relaxes the fibers in the wood and enables it to be cut without splitting although I’ve never cut anything thicker than 1/16 of an inch .

akjgardner wrote:Yes, the water relaxes the fibers in the wood and enables it to be cut without splitting although I’ve never cut anything thicker than 1/16 of an inch .

Thanks for clarifying its practical limits. Being facetious don't think that would work on this:

1941 Vanguard 66 F/F kit, 1/4-in. thick printed sheets.

My Al Lidgard F/F reproduction kit is built just like the old Comet's, stick and tissue, but at 66 inch (1,676 mm) wingspan, the pieces are considerably larger.

https://outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=4963

Those will be fun to cut out. In this case, @roddie's Dremel scroll saw would be the right tool, although in the past I've used modeling knives, too.