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Correct procedure to start a 0.10 tee dee engine? Empty Correct procedure to start a 0.10 tee dee engine?

Post  casalejuan Sun Sep 16, 2012 12:06 am

hello... I bought a 0.10 tee Dee engine and I replace glow head, gaskets, needle valv, spring, venturi, etc.
I noticed after a few attempts to start it that the gasoline tank does not close completely with the new gasket and I see that the gasoline didn´t flows through the rubber tube to the cylinder. Could anyone help me? is there any manual of this engine? Any recommendations?


Thanks
Juan.


Last edited by casalejuan on Mon Sep 17, 2012 3:55 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post  RknRusty Sun Sep 16, 2012 12:46 am

Here is the manual for that engine:
http://coxengines.ca/files/010%20Tee%20Dee.pdf
We have some .010 experts here, but I'm not one of them. Someone will probably post some useful advice for you tomorrow. Good luck.
Rusty

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Post  Cribbs74 Sun Sep 16, 2012 10:07 am

You need to address the leaky tank first and foremost. It will never run right and will always draw air through the line until you do.

Use the instructions Rusty provided in the link after you fix the tank and it should run fine assuming that is the only problem.

Ron
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Post  SuperDave Sun Sep 16, 2012 12:05 pm

Juan:

Are you REALLY using GASOLINE rather than glow fuel?????? That is a good way to start a fire! (This may be only a translation problem)

As Ron suggests correct the tank leak or the engine will never run correctly.
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Post  casalejuan Sun Sep 16, 2012 9:50 pm

SuperDave wrote:Juan:

Are you REALLY using GASOLINE rather than glow fuel?????? That is a good way to start a fire! (This may be only a translation problem)

As Ron suggests correct the tank leak or the engine will never run correctly.

jajajaja is only my bad english... I use Nitro + castor oil like all of you.
I found the problem. the gas tank is leaking by the gasket. This one is new but I don´t know why the gasket does not allow the tank backplate (or lid.. I don´t know how to say it) closes properly. So I decide to adjust the screw and I broke the lid tank. Sad Sad Sad Sad
I can´t find this part on Internet.. Sad Sad Sad
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Post  RknRusty Sun Sep 16, 2012 10:43 pm

Ouch, that hurts.
Backplate is the name of the part. Someone here can probably help you get one. Post a thread about what you need in the "For Sale/Wanted" section of this forum.

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Post  dckrsn Sun Sep 16, 2012 10:51 pm

Hi Juan,
You can use one of these with a remote/separate fuel tank.
http://coxengines.ca/cox-.010-backplate.html

Bob
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Post  casalejuan Mon Sep 17, 2012 9:56 am

dckrsn wrote:Hi Juan,
You can use one of these with a remote/separate fuel tank.
http://coxengines.ca/cox-.010-backplate.html

Bob

Hi bob! what I broke is not that part. I broke the cover backplate. I don´t know how to say it.
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Post  SuperDave Mon Sep 17, 2012 11:24 am

Juan:

Yes it is probably the backplate cover that you broke by overtightening the screws. If the gasket were correctly installed this problem would not have happened.

You state that the engine was "new" but, in fact, it was probably "used" so the problems likey came with engine. Otherwise you probably replaced parts without cause. Did you try to start the engine before replacing parts? If so, what was the result?

Proper diagnosis is the first priority of repair work.
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Post  casalejuan Mon Sep 17, 2012 2:29 pm

SuperDave wrote:Juan:

Yes it is probably the backplate cover that you broke by overtightening the screws. If the gasket were correctly installed this problem would not have happened.

You state that the engine was "new" but, in fact, it was probably "used" so the problems likey came with engine. Otherwise you probably replaced parts without cause. Did you try to start the engine before replacing parts? If so, what was the result?

Proper diagnosis is the first priority of repair work.

Hi! the engine was not new. I never said that.
I didn´t tried to start it before because the engine very dirty. First I cleaned all the parts and then I reassemble the engine. I took the opportunity to change esential parts like gaskets, fuel tank pick up line, glow head etc.
Today I´m going to try again making some modifications. I want to conect the fuel tank pick up line to another external fuel tank.
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Post  John Goddard Mon Sep 17, 2012 2:42 pm

The best I ever got mine to run Juan was with a small balloon (rubber glove finger) tank/bladder.
Also the finger/tank/bladder gave 5 mins runtime against the standard tanks 3/3+1/4 min
runtime.

On here Rusty is King of the low/no pressure bladder I'll see if I can find his thread.
Very Happy
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Post  John Goddard Mon Sep 17, 2012 3:14 pm

Here you go,-

https://www.coxengineforum.com/t2001-balloon-bladder-ver-20-yes-another-project?highlight=bladder

Where Rusty uses a brass tube I used the inner from a biro washed out and used a hot needle
to pierce the holes in it.

Don't forget these engines are VERY simple, if there's a strong glow, compression and fuel it will run.

In my experience with the 010's it's usually because the needle isn't open enough that they won't run.
The '4 turns out' on the instruction manual is at best a very rough guide, most of mine are between
4.5 and 6.5 turns out.

Best of luck
J
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Post  SuperDave Mon Sep 17, 2012 3:41 pm

casalejuan wrote:[quote

Hi! the engine was not new. I never said that.


Yes you did Juan in your original post on this subject. Look at it and see. "hello... I bought a new 0.10 tee Dee engine" - juan

New means as the engine came from the producer without being used. You clearly bought a used engine that needed work.

I'd better withdraw from this thread but, seriously, good luck with your used engine.

I call my TD .010 "The Mosquito on steroids" and for good reason. Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy


Last edited by SuperDave on Mon Sep 17, 2012 3:59 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post  casalejuan Mon Sep 17, 2012 3:55 pm

SuperDave wrote:
casalejuan wrote:[quote

Hi! the engine was not new. I never said that.


Yes you did Juan in your original post on this subject. Look at it and see. New means as the engine came from the producer without being used. You clearly bought a used engine that needed work.

I'd better withdraw from this thread but, seriously, good luck with your used engine.

I call my TD .010 "The Mosquito on steroids" and for good reason. Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy

You´r right but I wanted to say "new" for me. Because is my first 010 Tee Dee. but I bought it as used.
I don´t understood what you said about your "Mosquito on steroids"... Huh...
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Post  casalejuan Mon Sep 17, 2012 4:01 pm

John Goddard wrote:Here you go,-

https://www.coxengineforum.com/t2001-balloon-bladder-ver-20-yes-another-project?highlight=bladder

Where Rusty uses a brass tube I used the inner from a biro washed out and used a hot needle
to pierce the holes in it.

Don't forget these engines are VERY simple, if there's a strong glow, compression and fuel it will run.

In my experience with the 010's it's usually because the needle isn't open enough that they won't run.
The '4 turns out' on the instruction manual is at best a very rough guide, most of mine are between
4.5 and 6.5 turns out.

Best of luck

J

Thanks John! I´m going to study that post carefully.
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Post  SuperDave Mon Sep 17, 2012 4:11 pm

Juan:

Mosquito (Spanish) - a nasty biting insect

Steroids - performance enhansing drugs

I think of my TD .010 as "A mosquito on steriods" - sounds nasty for it's small size and it's performance is greater than a person would think.

That would be considered as a compliment to the TD .010. Wink Wink Wink
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Post  Cribbs74 Mon Sep 17, 2012 4:19 pm

If it runs well off an external tank then your problem is the supplied tank.

Let us know how that goes.

SuperDave was just saying he likes his .010 and it looks and sounds like a mosquito, but has lot's of power.

Edit: Dave beat me to it!
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Post  casalejuan Mon Sep 17, 2012 8:16 pm

cribbs74 wrote:If it runs well off an external tank then your problem is the supplied tank.

Let us know how that goes.

SuperDave was just saying he likes his .010 and it looks and sounds like a mosquito, but has lot's of power.

Edit: Dave beat me to it!

jajaja OK. Then it is a powerful mosquito. I hope I can say the same thing of my engine. But I can´t start it. A few minutes ago I tried for second time and it didn´t work. (with an external tank). I think that the problem is the carburator. That part is from plastic and.. I don´t know how to say it but.. I can see that the venturi rotates and rotates endless. The carburetor has a thread and seems to be in bad conditions. I bought a new aluminum body carburator. someone has any other detail of the venturi and the carb body that I have to know? remember that is my first 010 tee dee. I have had a lot of 0.49 and 0.20 in bad conditions and I always changed parts and started all those engines.

Thanks to all of you!
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Post  Admin Mon Sep 17, 2012 9:04 pm

You can find a exact replacement tank backplate here> https://shop.mecoa.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=36 The ones being made by MECOA/K&B are made using the original Cox molds. Unless you know it was only the tank backplate that was warped or had something wrong with it, you should take a look at the tank bowl as well before you order a new backplate just in case you need a full assembly.

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Post  casalejuan Mon Sep 17, 2012 10:16 pm

Admin wrote:You can find a exact replacement tank backplate here> https://shop.mecoa.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=36 The ones being made by MECOA/K&B are made using the original Cox molds. Unless you know it was only the tank backplate that was warped or had something wrong with it, you should take a look at the tank bowl as well before you order a new backplate just in case you need a full assembly.

Hi!!! thanks!!! this are great news! I did not know this site.

Juan. Wink Wink Wink
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Post  John Goddard Tue Sep 18, 2012 5:58 am

I know Matt at exmodelengines.com had the black one's a couple months
Back.
J
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Post  casalejuan Tue Sep 18, 2012 8:13 am

John Goddard wrote:I know Matt at exmodelengines.com had the black one's a couple months
Back.
J

You´r right John! I bought it!! Very Happy Very Happy I can Paint it!! you know... In south America nobody makes this parts. it's crazy to think about contacting Small Cox Logo and ask for their permission to make this in Argentina?
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Post  casalejuan Tue Sep 18, 2012 4:49 pm

Hello ... I tried for third time and after one hour, the engine starts Smile .... but only a few seconds DAMMIT! . then the engine stops and will not start again. Sad I could see that the fuel tank lost glow from behind. The tank loses a drop every minute but I don´t know if this may be affecting the engine start. yesterday I bought an aluminum carburator and I´m going to glue the backplate to the tank with silicone to see if this fix the problem. ... yes, I know that is not the best solution but I don´t know what to do. Usd 18 for a new tank is to expensive...
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Post  SuperDave Tue Sep 18, 2012 5:53 pm

(Can't resist, I'm back in)

Juan:

If the engine tries to start but dies it is clearly running off the "prime" that you gave it.

Did you clean the needle spray bar and needle when you had it apart. These little engines are highly sensative to the slightest contamination by old harden castor oil or dirt.
Simply stated then engine simply is not drawing fuel.
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Post  casalejuan Tue Sep 18, 2012 7:43 pm

SuperDave wrote:(Can't resist, I'm back in)

Juan:

If the engine tries to start but dies it is clearly running off the "prime" that you gave it.

Did you clean the needle spray bar and needle when you had it apart. These little engines are highly sensative to the slightest contamination by old harden castor oil or dirt.
Simply stated then engine simply is not drawing fuel.

I saw that Those few seconds that the engine ran was Because the "prime" that I gave it. The Needle and the venturi are new (I bought it from cox). Other parts was cleaned with compressed air.
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