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Cox Engine of The Month
May-2024
1/2A Nut's

"Cox Tee Dee .051 RC Marine"



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Goldberg Lil Satan Empty Goldberg Lil Satan

Post  scigs30 Sat Jun 15, 2013 11:15 am

I have a vintage Goldberg Lil Satan that I would like to build. The kit is in good shape except I am missing two parts. I am missing the firewall and the plywood piece that the bellcrank attaches to. I know Brodak sells repro kit but I don't really want to buy a whole kit for two plywood parts. Does anyone have a scan of the parts for this kit? Thank you.
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Post  OVERLORD Sat Jun 15, 2013 12:13 pm

Hello there,

Welcome to the forum. Look over here:

http://www.outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=4183

Lieven
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Post  scigs30 Sat Jun 15, 2013 12:16 pm

That is a wonderful site.  I have the plan the problem is the firewall is not shown. I have looked everywhere on the web and have not found the patterns for the plane.  Once I have the two plywood pieces I am looking for, I will draw up the parts and post them.
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Post  andrew Sat Jun 15, 2013 1:08 pm

If you have the two nose pieces that that slip over the wing to support the firewall, then you have the firewall height.  The width is not critical --- just make the firewall the width of your engine backplate plus 1/4" to 5/16".  The control horn is the same --- just get the shape in the ballpark and add several holes for the control rod.  If the plane is too twitchy, move it to an outer hole; if it is too tame for you, move the rod to an inner hole.

If you were building to compete in precision stunt or RC pattern, then design parameters become more important.  For a knock about like the Lil Satan, TLAR (that looks about right) works just fine.
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Post  Ken Cook Sat Jun 15, 2013 2:40 pm

I would like to contribute my findings with Bee style engines on a Lil Satan. I'm assuming your going to use a Black Widow or Golden Bee. The plans show how the fuel tubing has to be routed on the plan illustration. That example is responsible for nothing but aggravation. The internals of the Black Widow or Golden Bee tank has the stunt tubes clearly in the way. To allow the pickup to curve around hard as the example shows is very difficult to do. In addition in order to do this, you must cut the pickup tube. Not only is this problematic to assemble, there's really no way to insure that the pickup will stay put once you get it into that location due to losing 50% of it's flexibility to cutting the pickup. My suggestion would be to turn the firewall so that engine is now clocked with the needle valve vertically at 12 o"clock vs 3 or 9 o'clock. The firewall is rectangular and making it even square to the desired width to accommodate the engine is quite simple.

In other words, the bolt pattern on the Bee's are in a rectangular configuration therefore if you tried to rotate it on the stock firewall it won't fit as the lugs on the backplate will be in the air due to the firewall not being tall enough. Ken
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Post  pkrankow Sat Jun 15, 2013 3:14 pm

If you are fun flying run the engine upright the cylinder will protect the needle.

If running out the entire tank is not essential then you can simply leave the tube off the tank, arrange the needle and cylinder in the same direction pointing out and go with it.  There will be about 1cc left after a run though.

Pointing the needle inboard and the cylinder outboard is another choice though it leaves the needle exposed to direct impact damage.

My cousin has one of these un-built he is supposed to be forwarding to me, but he is in northern MI and I am in central OH so who knows when I will get it.  He visits my parents once or twice a year so chances are good I'll get it in a year

Phil
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Post  kevbo Mon Jun 17, 2013 4:05 pm

I built two of those, but this would have been at least 35 years ago, so my memory might be a tad fuzzy.

OK, just googled, here is a link to download the plans from:
http://www.outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=4183

As I recall, (referring to above, I am right)  the firewall keyed to the two saddles that fit the wing leading edge, so it needs notches the right width on each side.  Rounding the corners makes it easier to wrap the reinforcement tape neatly. On edit: I think the two arch shaped pieces on the back of the firewall that support the top and bottom of the nacelle were also plywood, and the engine mounting screws went into them for a little more bite.

The bellcrank mount is just a rectangle with a tab at each end. See plan above.  

A razor saw is the best way to cut plywood.  Rasps, sandpaper, and surform tools to make final adjustments.

Edited to add: The engines are easier to start with the cylinder pointing up, especially if you are not well versed in the ways of 1/2a engines. Protects the needle a little as mentioned above.  The leading edge gets in the way if you have the needle to the side. On edit: The plan linked above shows the tank fill tubes going out the side. You lose tank capacity that way on fill, and it can drain out on sustained inverted flight. The vent/fill tubes should go up and down, and be toward the inside wing to work as designed.
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Post  Cribbs74 Mon Jun 17, 2013 8:26 pm

I have a set of Brodak plans. It has the firewall on it. If you don't already have what you need shoot me a PM and I will give you dimensions.

Ron
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Post  RknRusty Mon Jun 17, 2013 8:34 pm

I tried my Li'l Satan with the cylinder and tank at different positions and always went back to normally mounted, cylinder and NV pointed up. Now with the Tee Dee I also run it with the cylinder up to protect the NV.

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