1958 Golden Bee

huh, mine is a proven 1958 model too, has the darker anodizing but still has the big needle valve...a transition model?

Or a built up parts model..

nah, getting the #2 cylinder on another crank case cant be done withut tool marks. my cyl is presteen.

GermanBeez wrote:nah, getting the #2 cylinder on another crank case cant be done withut tool marks. my cyl is presteen.

It can using soft wooden blocks i do it with .010s.

Guys,

Hopefully 'Mud' will correct me on dates but, going from memory...the Rear Golden Bee is likely from the early-mid Seventies, the 'stepped' cylinder was made about 1970-1975, designed for a throttle, was later made as the 'thick' cylinder...less machining to do.

The 'W' filament was only made a couple years, 1969,70-71.

The large diameter needle was made well into the late sixties and very easy to swap out.

Please note the front taper of the two cases, some time in the late sixties the front taper became thicker.

Also, in the late 50's Cox only stamped the p-40 cylinder. I'm not sure, but I don't think the #2 cylinder stamp didn't appear until 1960-1961 at the earliest and probably later, after the Tee Dees appeared.

It's not that difficult to remove a cylinder, used heat and some tape on wrench or use a hard wood block, by drilling a hole the size of cylinder in block, cut in two, wrap masking tape if needed, put in vise, get hot and use gloves to carefully twist case.

Mark

I always date my engines from the features. Such as the backplates with no "Made In USA" on them. I have found that the 1962 and later engines have the "Made In USA" while earlier ones don't. I have also noticed the lighter brass colored backplates are from 1958 and before while the darker bronze-copper colored backplates are 1959 and later. I have noticed the Thimble Drome on Babe Bee tanks from about 1959 to the late 60s (about 1967-68). My known 1962 Babe Bee has a #2 on the cylinder and I believe I have also seen 1959 engines have a #2 on the cylinder as well. I have only found numberless cylinders on engines that have a "less curved" thin crankcase neck. Those have to date somewhere between 1956 to mid 1958. The 1959 and later engines have a more curved thin crankcase neck. I have also only seen and heard of 3 piece pistons in Babe Bees from 1956. The needle valves from earlier engines (1956-1958) seem to have a more rounded edge large top while the later engines 1959-1967ish have a sharper edge large top. Back to the cylinder, the earlier cylinders (1956-1958) seem to be much thinner (thinner then the post 1959 thin cylinders) with slightly narrower (no to very-very little SPI) exhaust posts.

I would love to be corrected if any of this info is off. I mostly touched on the Babe Bee characteristics since I have a bunch of them ranging from a known 1956 to a known 2000.

I also have pictures if you don't get what I mean by any of my odd descriptions of parts.

Mud would probably know for sure.

Here's my early Golden Bee, probably a 1958. Also the drive plate IS black, the coloring actually chipped off but is still visible under the prop. Was the driveplate originally painted? The engine is actually light gold like yours, but because of my 60 watt incandescent bulb and crappy camera, it looks darker then it is. http://sites.google.com/site/coxenginecollection/golden-bee I have it in a '70s box just because I have the box but not a '70s Golden Bee.

hm, mine looks just like yours....oh well, its a golden bee. it has some older parts and some newer parts.

ohh, this thread is just what i need. I just purchased a Golden Bee, and am now waiting for it in the mail. I hope to learn alot by the time it gets here.

Shell Shock

nitroairplane wrote:

GermanBeez wrote:nah, getting the #2 cylinder on another crank case cant be done withut tool marks. my cyl is presteen.

It can using soft wooden blocks i do it with .010s.

Here in the states there is a item that is available called Tool-dip, available at Ace hardware. A rubber coating that envelopes the tool piece you dip it in, in soft rubber (once dried). I have double dipped the nose of channel locks, needle nose pliers, regular pliers, screwdrivers, even for waterproofing servos. On the can there is a formula for thinning it down, to make a thin layer for more precise tools. I haven't tried that yet, but it works good for all other tools of which I have tried it on. I have hard grabbed the case of expensive modified italian motors with the dipped channel locks and have yet to mar the surface of anything. It's a mar protection surface as well as giving the tool better traction.

PV Pilot wrote:

nitroairplane wrote:

GermanBeez wrote:nah, getting the #2 cylinder on another crank case cant be done withut tool marks. my cyl is presteen.

It can using soft wooden blocks i do it with .010s.

Here in the states there is a item that is available called Tool-dip, available at Ace hardware. A rubber coating that envelopes the tool piece you dip it in, in soft rubber (once dried). I have double dipped the nose of channel locks, needle nose pliers, regular pliers, screwdrivers, even for waterproofing servos. On the can there is a formula for thinning it down, to make a thin layer for more precise tools. I haven't tried that yet, but it works good for all other tools of which I have tried it on. I have hard grabbed the case of expensive modified italian motors with the dipped channel locks and have yet to mar the surface of anything. It's a mar protection surface as well as giving the tool better traction.

i coat some of my pliers with heat shrink so i dont ruin parts.

PV Pilot wrote:

nitroairplane wrote:

GermanBeez wrote:nah, getting the #2 cylinder on another crank case cant be done withut tool marks. my cyl is presteen.

It can using soft wooden blocks i do it with .010s.

Here in the states there is a item that is available called Tool-dip, available at Ace hardware. A rubber coating that envelopes the tool piece you dip it in, in soft rubber (once dried).

They sell that stuff at Harbor Freight. I have coated the exhaust port end of a cox wrench in some, it eventually gets cut up and you have to scrape it off and re-dip.

Harbour freight also sell some of the best lathes (or so I have been told)
Does the stuff come I like a tub or do you mix it?

nitroairplane wrote:Harbour freight also sell some of the best lathes (or so I have been told)
Does the stuff come I like a tub or do you mix it?

It comes in a can like a small paint can. I guess there are different kinds but I have only used the stuff you just open and dip. It then takes a few hours to set. I just hang the tools from a wire and let it sit. It called Plasti Dip. http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=plasti+dip

Admin wrote:

nitroairplane wrote:Harbour freight also sell some of the best lathes (or so I have been told)
Does the stuff come I like a tub or do you mix it?

It comes in a can like a small paint can. I guess there are different kinds but I have only used the stuff you just open and dip. It then takes a few hours to set. I just hang the tools from a wire and let it sit. It called Plasti Dip. http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=plasti+dip

Seems cool does it work well or just fail or compress after a few months of use?

Its like the same crap that came on your on your pliers handles. It holds up, it just gets cut up from the exhaust ports because the edges are sharp and there is a lot of force.

Admin wrote:Its like the same crap that came on your on your pliers handles. It holds up, it just gets cut up from the exhaust ports because the edges are sharp and there is a lot of force.

Oh it seems am intreating experiment but I think I'll stik to wooden blocks as this seems a bit of a gimmick.

Yep, the wood blocks are hard to beat, but even then you run the risk of removing some of the black oxide finish.

I like heat, lots of it and taped wrenches first, if that doesn't work get the blocks. Herkimer (O.K.Cub) used to sell knurled aluminum rings that had a split in them and could be compressed with a screw, used the same way.

Mark

Mark Boesen wrote:Yep, the wood blocks are hard to beat, but even then you run the risk of removing some of the black oxide finish.

I like heat, lots of it and taped wrenches first, if that doesn't work get the blocks. Herkimer (O.K.Cub) used to sell knurled aluminum rings that had a split in them and could be compressed with a screw, used the same way.

Mark

But re blacking the cylinder is easier than making scratches and burs right again.

I use a 6" strip of leather about 1/2" wide and almost 3/16" thick. If the head has been removed, I replace it hand tight. Heat the case with a heat gun, wrap the leather around the upper part of the cylinder (the head supports the cylinder walls to keep it from distorting), then use pliers on the leather and hold the case with gloves. The leather deforms to get a good grip on the fins, but is thick and tough enough not to tear or leave any marks.

I've used leather strips for years on all sorts of items that I don't want to mar or raise any burrs on. Your local cobbler or saddle maker will have thick leather on hand and you can usually get remnants for next to nothing, if not free.

Here are my Golden Bees. I bought them all used so I don't know if they are original...except the one in the upper left which apparently has lotsa stuff on it.



George

wow going for over 120.00

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cox-Engine-049-Golden-Bee-NIP-/330879560345

is that a new record?

nitrosmeller wrote:wow going for over 120.00

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cox-Engine-049-Golden-Bee-NIP-/330879560345

is that a new record?

that's a new one, alright.

I always keep an eye on eBay for the old Golden Bees, I saw this one looked good with no tool marks so put a bid. Also like the thin wall TDs and Medallions.
It has the three piece piston and needed a good cleaning. They usually don't sell for much.