My other learning plane.

Thank you for the details on the hinges. I am getting close to hinging the surfaces on an Ace Corsair, and I think these will work perfectly. Bravo, sir!

KP

tru168 wrote:Hi,

What is the all up weight please ?  please share video how it fly if possible ;-)  

It weighs 15.15 oz, or 430gm.  Not bad, since the original plans call for a weight of 16-20 ounces.  I don't have anyone to video for me, so I'll have to rig up a hat-cam or something when I fly it.

Glad my hinge tutorial helps someone.  I've used this method on most of my 1/2A R/C planes, and a couple of 2 meter gliders.  I wouldn't hesitate to use this method for planes up to .40 size, but I usually use CA hinges for the bigger planes.  Much faster and easier than making Monokote hinges, and the weight savings are unimportant.

The Underweight Mark

Mark Boesen wrote:Very nice Mark! Sorta reminds me of my first R/C plane called a Papillion, I still have the warm and fuzzies for slow & simple planes!

Other Mark,

The Papillon was my first R/C plane also!  I bought it mail order from America's Hobby Center along with a 2 channel Futaba radio back around '79.  Tried to teach myself how to build and fly on that one.  Needless to say, it was a dismal failure.  I didn't know anything about balancing a plane back then.  I crashed it, then sewed it back together and glued it up.  Crashed then sewed and glued.  Crashed, then sewed and glued.  It only flew successfully once.  I'm convinced that the only time it flew was because I added so much glue to various parts of the airframe that it accidentally balanced out right.  But, the flight ended up in a crash, and I glued it right back out of balance...    

I scored a NIB Papillon kit from a guy six or seven years ago for $35 shipped.  I want to build another, but I want to keep the kit un-built, also.  Thanks to Dave Fritzke, I can have my cake and eat it, too.  I downloaded the plans from his site, and someday I'll build another one.  In fact, I was thinking about building three.  1) Just like the original one, using the same methods and materials, but actually balancing it right this time to see if it would have flown. 2) Building it the way I SHOULD have built it.  And 3) an electric version.  Man! That'll be a busy week!    

After that experience, I put away R/C planes until years later with the E-Z Bee and Q-Tee.

The Cake Eating Mark

Hi Mark,

430gm should float nicely with that large wing area! Can't wait to see your maiden video!

Ew

I think I got mine mail order from Hobby Shack (aka Hobby People) in '82 along with a new Futaba Attack 4TL (?) first flight was with a Golden Bee, 2 std. servos and a 500 mah battery pack, got'er over a corn field and it was all I could do to keep it airbourne and back to field, very soon swapped a Tee Dee and a 250mah battery; then a third servo for throttle and a .099 Thunder Tiger, also added a couple wheels and I was off...until one day I did a "watch this" and tried a large outside loop with it, nice hard landing, only unintended and inverted...still have parts...one of these days!

Funny... I have a Papillon. It was the plane that I inaugurated the TD .051 in, that I am using in the flight time contest. I purchased the engine in about 1983 for that plane. It cost $28.00, if I remember correctly. So, it's still going strong!

batjac wrote:
Thanks to Dave Fritzke, I can have my cake and eat it, too.  I downloaded the plans from his site, and someday I'll build another one.  

Mark --

An excellent build.  Your conversion of the transmitter was really pretty slick --- very nicely done.

For those that may not have Dave Fritzke's site bookmarked:

http://my.pclink.com/~dfritzke/

It really is a great resource for some of the classic 1/2A plans.

For George Hostler --- Welcome to the forum, you'll fit right in here.

andrew

Thanks, all for your great welcomes. I don't have any experience with the Papillion, but do with the Q-Tee.

My Q-Tee was built in the late 1970's while in college and was powered by a Black Widow initially on Ace Pulse Commander, Adams Stomper Actuator with KRD quick blip sequential throttle. The Black Widow had an exhaust throttle sleeve. Elevator was locked in place using a pushrod firmly mounted on the fuselage side. I flew it as rudder only.

Then I upgraded it with a 4 channel Charlie's R/C (Bill Cannon) 810 kit system I assembled. Mark's conversion gives me an idea. I still have that Cannon system and could upgrade it with a 2.4 GHz DIY conversion module and modern receiver. It was an old 72 MHz wide band system, but very light in the hands.

It's been crashed and rebuilt a couple times. Last I flew before this Fall was in the 1990's. It would fly with a Black Widow and 6x3 or 6x4 prop at 6,500 feet elevation in Gallup, NM, because the Q-Tee has very ample wing area and is fairly clean aerodynamically. It flies on its wing. I figured 9'd it, so it was stored until this summer, when I rebuilt it.

Now it sports a Norvel .061 Big Mig CL. Even with the Mecoa Cox .049 long plug adapter head, still moves out very spiritedly at my current 4,300 feet elevation. Guidance is an older Hobby Shack 4 channel 72 MHz narrow band Cirrus RC-4F Excell-4 radio (basic Futaba 4 channel FM). It still has the original Cannon mini-servos.





Mark's Cox/Sanwa Cadet III 2.4 GHz transmitter conversion has also inspired me to consider resurrecting my Charlie's R/C 810 transmitter.

batjac wrote:Well, I've been procrastinating on finishing this model, hoping that I'd be inspired and create a "Super, Gee-Whiz" paint scheme, but nothing's come to me.  So, I figured I'd just go ahead and finish it in the standard Batjac Aeroworks© color scheme and get it done.  I went with a simple Monokote finish, as painting is still out due to the rain.  The first things covered were the wing and fuselage.  Sorry, I didn't take pictures as I was covering, but it's just a straight forward cover job.  The tail surfaces took a little more time, as I chose to use my favorite Monokote hinges.  I know a lot of people like the Monokote hinges where your create a seam with the top and bottom Monokote sealed together to make the hinge.  Personally, I like my Monokote hinges more like the old cloth hinges.  Works the same, but better.

First, I cut a strip of my base color Monokote 1/2" wide.  Then I cut 3/4" pieces off, and iron them face to face to create the hinges.






Then, I take another piece of base color Monokote and put a strip along the mating surfaces of each tail surface.  Then, iron on the hinges the same as you would glue cloth hinges.



When you're done, iron on the finish pieces of Monokote on your tail surfaces.  With this type of hinge, there's almost no gap, but the tail surfaces can be folded over on themselves easily.  



And, no matter what angle the surface is moved to, these is still no gap between the tail surfaces.

I tried this hinge technique on my 2m glider rebuild. It works a treat.

Phil

Hey George,

Welcome to the forum! It's about time. If you have a chance post an intro in the introduction section. I know you have quite a past with CL and RC.

Ron

Will do Ron, thanks. Remember that Ringmaster I got from Bill Spencer? Getting closer to complete.

Looks great George! Not much longer now.

Oh my, a beautiful virgin paint job!
Welcome to CEF George.

Rusty

You're welcome, Rusty and Ron.

Oh man!..

Now I'm going to have to dig out the old box of Cox/Sanwa Cadet transmitters for my Q-tee, and do the conversion.   

Nice work!

How's it going, George. Got her in the air yet?
Rusty

batjac,

Found this while looking into doing the same 2.4 conversion as you. Just a heads up up on pulling the crystal. Quoted from fastfordrc from Tamiyaclub.

"Another thing to look at when installing a 2.4Ghz DIY module is that it's a good idea to disable the existing RF section, either completely or have the ability to switch the power between the old and new RF sections if you want the ability to keep using your old receivers. Removing the crystal will stop it transmiitting, but the circuit will still use some power (and may overheat or burn out components, which can happen if you remove the aerial as well). So, in addiiton to the PPM signal, you also ideally need to find and interrupt the power feed to the old RF section."

He says "may overheat". I Don't know if this has any effect on your conversion, but I thought I would post so you could look into it before something bad  happened to your radio.

G57