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Cox Engine of The Month
Cox prop question
Page 4 of 4
Page 4 of 4 • 1, 2, 3, 4
Re: Cox prop question
Hi Mark,
I have been prop shaping for years, I also like to scratch build all my planes so the custom bug is always biting.
The trick is take a photo of the prop then put it in paint or some photoshop type application and simply draw out the curves that look right for your needs. Next you get some paper packing tape on one blades and copy draw on the lines you liked. Cut out with sharp medium size curved cuticle type scissors / remove the tape and match it up on the uncut blade the rest is all in the shaping work file in the foil and buff to a shine with fine sandpaper use the same technique in your shaping style for both blades you will be surprised what you can do by hand. After you're done and you feel your best efforts have been made to match up the work on both blades (balance the prop) and fine tune some material off the heavy side.
The prop shown took me less than 30mins (being so small) from design to finished prop.
The modified modernized prop puts out more rpm it is still a 3in dia prop providing good thrust yet the swept (sharper) leading edge increases the rpm and the relief in the trailing edge of the tips expound the rpm even further for the TD .010 this made for a huge jump in rpm depending on the nitro content you can expect a 1,800 to 3,000 + rpm increase over the stock prop.
The plastic flexible props are not easy to shape you have to really want a robust prop to endure the extra shaping work.
The 3.3 x 2 is a hard glass/plastic prop easy to shape.
I have been prop shaping for years, I also like to scratch build all my planes so the custom bug is always biting.
The trick is take a photo of the prop then put it in paint or some photoshop type application and simply draw out the curves that look right for your needs. Next you get some paper packing tape on one blades and copy draw on the lines you liked. Cut out with sharp medium size curved cuticle type scissors / remove the tape and match it up on the uncut blade the rest is all in the shaping work file in the foil and buff to a shine with fine sandpaper use the same technique in your shaping style for both blades you will be surprised what you can do by hand. After you're done and you feel your best efforts have been made to match up the work on both blades (balance the prop) and fine tune some material off the heavy side.
The prop shown took me less than 30mins (being so small) from design to finished prop.
The modified modernized prop puts out more rpm it is still a 3in dia prop providing good thrust yet the swept (sharper) leading edge increases the rpm and the relief in the trailing edge of the tips expound the rpm even further for the TD .010 this made for a huge jump in rpm depending on the nitro content you can expect a 1,800 to 3,000 + rpm increase over the stock prop.
The plastic flexible props are not easy to shape you have to really want a robust prop to endure the extra shaping work.
The 3.3 x 2 is a hard glass/plastic prop easy to shape.
1/2A Nut- Top Poster
- Posts : 3430
Join date : 2013-10-20
Age : 60
Location : Brad in Texas
Re: Cox prop question
Cox International wrote:batjac wrote:Okay. My order's in...
The Early Adopter Mark
Thanks and we received several orders overnight
Getting mine together also...waiting on my bud to decide what he wants me to add to the order...
Kim- Top Poster
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Posts : 8531
Join date : 2011-09-06
Location : South East Missouri
batjac- Diamond Member
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Posts : 2336
Join date : 2013-05-22
Age : 61
Location : Broken Arrow, OK, USA
Re: Cox prop question
Braaap Braaaaaaap sizzle, great pic!
You and other folks should tune in with some feedback once you try one out. I already know the magic they can make with .020 engines. We have all been stuck with 2P the 3 blade 2.5P doesn't put out the rpm so you should be surprised how well the needle sets and extra provided pep of the 2 blade.
You and other folks should tune in with some feedback once you try one out. I already know the magic they can make with .020 engines. We have all been stuck with 2P the 3 blade 2.5P doesn't put out the rpm so you should be surprised how well the needle sets and extra provided pep of the 2 blade.
1/2A Nut- Top Poster
- Posts : 3430
Join date : 2013-10-20
Age : 60
Location : Brad in Texas
Re: Cox prop question
Thanks to Bernie and his resources I have recieved my props.
Here is a tip the rubber .020 spinner has enough diameter to cover the larger prop hub of the 4x2.5 if you don't want rubber you can take a .049 aluminum spinner and file or with a grinding wheel reducing just the nose feathering it in to suit the long version .020 prop screw. Once done it take on the same shape as the Queen Bee spinner.
Shown here in a pic the length of the .049 spinner is reduced some to be closer to the .020 stock aluminum spinner. The dia is spot on for this prop. Also note the stock screw is too short for this prop when used with a rubber spinner adapter you will have to use a stock prop screw.
Here is a tip the rubber .020 spinner has enough diameter to cover the larger prop hub of the 4x2.5 if you don't want rubber you can take a .049 aluminum spinner and file or with a grinding wheel reducing just the nose feathering it in to suit the long version .020 prop screw. Once done it take on the same shape as the Queen Bee spinner.
Shown here in a pic the length of the .049 spinner is reduced some to be closer to the .020 stock aluminum spinner. The dia is spot on for this prop. Also note the stock screw is too short for this prop when used with a rubber spinner adapter you will have to use a stock prop screw.
1/2A Nut- Top Poster
- Posts : 3430
Join date : 2013-10-20
Age : 60
Location : Brad in Texas
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