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Post  batjac Fri Sep 25, 2015 7:05 am

Well, since I opened my big mouth and suggested it, here’s my unofficial tether car design.  It’s my day off, so I went ahead and started.  Digging in my plywood supplies yielded up a 1/8”x6”x12” piece of ply.  I printed off a picture sort of like what I want and cut it out.  Then I taped it onto the 1/8” ply that I had marked the wheel locations on.  That went over to the scroll saw and the profile got cut out.  My camera is pretty lousy at close up shots, so if anything looks crooked or bent, it’s the crappy lens.

Putting my money where my mouth is. DSCN3746_zps7cepwjot
Putting my money where my mouth is. DSCN3748_zpsvfvybcvq


Putting some wheels in place for some perspective.

Putting my money where my mouth is. DSCN3752_zpszx7b70kp


Once I had the general shape, I drew a base for the car out of more of the 1/8” ply and marked the slots for alignment tabs.  Again back to the scroll saw.

Putting my money where my mouth is. DSCN3756_zpsb5d7ayea
Putting my money where my mouth is. DSCN3757_zpseocnh4y1


Then a quick test fit of the plate to make sure everything was good.

Putting my money where my mouth is. DSCN3759_zps1dtaafkj


Then I glued the pieces together with a triangle to ensure alignment.

Putting my money where my mouth is. DSCN3763_zps4guhtmp5
Putting my money where my mouth is. DSCN3766_zpslrs6dl5k


Next I cut and glued in place an axle bearing tube.

Putting my money where my mouth is. DSCN3769_zps1gthderr


With the axle cut to length and wheels mounted.

Putting my money where my mouth is. DSCN3770_zpswmu731mo


Finally for the day, I drilled mounting holes for the drive gear.  I decided first that I would use wheel drive instead of prop drive.  For ease, I went with direct drive.  A tanked Bee didn’t appeal to me, so I figured I’d use the product engine that I used for the Hobbico 1/2A fuel test.  I’ll make up an appropriate tank tomorrow.  To make things symmetrical, I used another product case for the other side.  Besides, if the performance isn’t good I might want to try making a twin engine tether car by putting a piston and cylinder into the idle case.

Putting my money where my mouth is. DSCN3773_zpseewhhili
Putting my money where my mouth is. DSCN3778_zpsfwetf5av
Putting my money where my mouth is. DSCN3776_zpsvezdomoq
Putting my money where my mouth is. DSCN3782_zpsabljdxio


After assembling everything, I think the wheels I used are just too small.  I picked smaller wheels because I didn’t want to overload the engine when it first starts its run.  Maybe after the first runs I’ll try larger wheels.  Also, I think 12 inches is just a little too long.  I might chop off 1” from the front and another from the back, then squish it down tomorrow.  I think this model is going to be my most expensive 1/2A model to date.  I bought wheels, collars, 5/32" rod, tubing, and landing gear hold-downs today.

The Foot In Mouth Mark
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Post  crankbndr Fri Sep 25, 2015 8:02 am

NICE!! I never thought of using a direct drive right off the engine, looks like it will haul butt.
I started on mine also, was thinking about one of these, maybe Art Arfons Green Monster.
I followed these guys in the 60s, couldn't wait for the Mechanics Illustrated to get delivered every month.

Putting my money where my mouth is. Arfons10


So far all I got is an aluminum tube,

Putting my money where my mouth is. Tube_t10
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Post  OVERLORD Fri Sep 25, 2015 8:07 am

What a coincidence, Since yesterday, I'm walking around with images of the Super Cyclops in my head. I found a 120mm plastic tube.

Crank, are we still concerned about any rules or we do as we like?

Nice start Mark!!
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Post  crankbndr Fri Sep 25, 2015 8:21 am

Looks like a "run what ya brung" should be fun!! But this is going to take me months, not days like Mark.
I hope other folks make one too!!
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Post  Kim Fri Sep 25, 2015 8:43 am

WAY COOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Post  1/2A Nut Fri Sep 25, 2015 8:52 am


Looking real good nice profile idea that folks could adapt.
A spring loaded throttle sleeve could have some advantage during launch instead of releasing at full throttle. The idea as line tension increases the engine opens up all the way. Otherwise you have to toss the car very quickly each time to keep the engine running when the tire hits the pavement producing excessive load which could lead to breaking its con rod over time or wearing into a loose ball socket in short order. Small Cox Logo
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Post  pkrankow Fri Sep 25, 2015 9:11 am

1/2A Nut wrote:
Looking real good nice profile idea that folks could adapt.
A spring loaded throttle sleeve could have some advantage during launch instead of releasing at full throttle. The idea as line tension increases the engine opens up all the way. Otherwise you have to toss the car very quickly each time to keep the engine running when the tire hits the pavement producing excessive load which could lead to breaking its con rod over time or wearing into a loose ball socket in short order. Small Cox Logo

Or throwing a tire.

Using a push stick to start is another choice, but you can't adjust anything...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g_VUsp3SWCI

(since I have only seen others run tether cars I don't know much about them)
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Post  JPvelo Fri Sep 25, 2015 10:55 am

pkrankow wrote:
1/2A Nut wrote:
Looking real good nice profile idea that folks could adapt.
A spring loaded throttle sleeve could have some advantage during launch instead of releasing at full throttle. The idea as line tension increases the engine opens up all the way. Otherwise you have to toss the car very quickly each time to keep the engine running when the tire hits the pavement producing excessive load which could lead to breaking its con rod over time or wearing into a loose ball socket in short order. Small Cox Logo

Or throwing a tire.  

Using a push stick to start is another choice, but you can't adjust anything...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g_VUsp3SWCI

(since I have only seen others run tether cars I don't know much about them)

Get a 1'x3' piece of sheet metal and apply a liberal amount of talcum powder, you'll get wheel spin that takes load of off the con rod and an awesome burnout effect! lol!
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Post  getback Fri Sep 25, 2015 11:57 am

LOOKING GOOD !! Mark you don't waste no time when the erg hits your on it / it should get up and go for sure light weight and direct drive Devil
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Post  roddie Fri Sep 25, 2015 1:21 pm

I love it Mark! A great candidate for a simple dyno idea.. I know what you're thinking Rolling Eyes but seriously Laughing all you'd need are 4 wooden spools wide enough for the tires, a couple of rods and a box frame to hold the whole car. It might help you synchronize the needles.
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Post  JPvelo Fri Sep 25, 2015 2:24 pm

roddie wrote:I love it Mark! A great candidate for a simple dyno idea.. I know what you're thinking Rolling Eyes but seriously Laughing all you'd need are 4 wooden spools wide enough for the tires, a couple of rods and a box frame to hold the whole car. It might help you synchronize the needles.

That's a great idea. You could mark the spools and use a strobe light for synchronization.

Jim
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Post  pkrankow Fri Sep 25, 2015 3:13 pm

You would think that close would be good enough as the two engines would be "connected" via the track, assuming no slip.

I am interested in seeing a twin run.

Phil
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Post  Marleysky Fri Sep 25, 2015 4:41 pm

Kim wrote:WAY COOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I second Kim's comment. That is just beyond too cool.....WaY Cool is much more descriptive. Just add a little wing for some lift and we'll have a four wheel positraction RTP flying monkey!   W a y. C o o l ...!!  Thanks Mark, I think I've found a place for a couple of engines from my bucket o' engines.   Laughing

BTW: I don't think I've EvEr broke a crank on launching a Cox   049,  car,  corvette, Buick or whatever we were running in circles back in the late 60's early 70's. We wore out tires or crashed the car before the engine broke.   You may not have enough weight to keep the car in contact with the ground anyway.......let's see some videos!

oops, err, the  049 cars were gear driven, the direct drive method WILL cause some undue stress on the engine/crank, upon take-0ff.   Anyway...shoot some video!  Laughing


Last edited by Marleysky on Fri Sep 25, 2015 8:50 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Engineering gearing)
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Post  batjac Sun Sep 27, 2015 11:38 pm

Huh...

Well, the more I play with this, more convinced I am that I made it too big for a .049 engine.  I think 8” or 9” is about the right size.    So, I have three choices:  1) Start over from scratch.  2)  Take some off the front and back, leaving the wheels where they are.  3) Chopping off the front, moving the front wheels back, and re-cutting the outline.

I think option 3 is my best choice.  It’s also the most awkward choice.  I'll print out templates at 8", 9", and 10" and see how they look.

I've also just about figured out what I'm going to do for the pivot in the center of the circle.  Now I have to go dig out some old helicopter parts and start assembling that, too.

The Back To The Drawing Board Mark
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Post  1/2A Nut Mon Sep 28, 2015 12:15 am

Its a profile wood car weight is just fine its not made out of metal like others. You should just paint it without details and run the sucker to see if the size is okay. If you have an adjustable throttle sleeve you can run at 40% during the initial test and go from there. Eyebrows
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