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First time starting
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First time starting
crs1945 Wed Nov 04, 2015 2:47 pm
Well the day finally arrived! Got my stuff together, went to pole barn, set the engine up mounted to a board in a vice, put fuel in tank then the fun!! First I tried starting it BUT no go, then my failing memory kicked in. You need the battery/glo-plug starter!! Get the battery and try again no go. It would sputter after I put fuel into the exhaust slots.Finally got i t to run ( 2 seconds ) but I noticed that the spinner and prop screw were coming loose. Screwed it back on and tried again. Again hard starting, run 2 secs., quit. Again prop screw backs out, screw it in.This goes on for several more tries, then I notice that the cam of the snap starter is cracked!!!!I give up. Now I give up. Would Gorilla super glue or JB Plastic weld work on the cam??? I did order another one and a prop screw for a .049 engine. What else could go wrong?? 
crs1945- Moderate Poster
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Join date : 2015-10-06
Re: First time starting
balogh Wed Nov 04, 2015 3:41 pm
The symptoms show the engine may have beed flooded thus it back-fires and this causes the prop screw to get untight. Try to close the needle valve a bit and re-try. Depending on the type of the engine the needle valve must be set differently like 2,5 to 4,5 turns counter clockwise...here is where you find engine operating instructions as well as spare starter cams sold by COX International...
http://coxengines.ca/engine-and-fuel-guides.html
http://coxengines.ca/front-end/
http://coxengines.ca/engine-and-fuel-guides.html
http://coxengines.ca/front-end/
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Re: First time starting
cox24711 Thu Nov 05, 2015 1:53 am
what fuel are you useing? also you have the needlevalve way too rich you need to oper her up to 3 turns on a black widow babe bee golden bee
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Re: First time starting
crs1945 Thu Nov 05, 2015 8:24 am
Fuel is Cox 25%nitro,55%meth.,10% caster & 10% synth. oils..Any ideas about the glue??Thanks. 
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Re: First time starting
balogh Thu Nov 05, 2015 8:27 am
I would not recommend gluing a plastic component that revs 15+krpm...may cause imbalance on the shaft, let alone the impaired eyesight if it cracks and flies into your face...
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Re: First time starting
gcb Thu Nov 05, 2015 9:27 am
crs1945,
After you replace (not repair) the starter cam, try starting with a prime only (needle valve completely closed). If it still backfires and loosens the prop screw, try adding a glow plug gasket and/or a larger prop (~6x2, 6x3) for flywheel action.
Once it easily starts and runs a prime, THEN fill the tank, open the needle 3 turns, and try again.
Good luck with it.
George
After you replace (not repair) the starter cam, try starting with a prime only (needle valve completely closed). If it still backfires and loosens the prop screw, try adding a glow plug gasket and/or a larger prop (~6x2, 6x3) for flywheel action.
Once it easily starts and runs a prime, THEN fill the tank, open the needle 3 turns, and try again.
Good luck with it.
George
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crs1945- Moderate Poster
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Re: First time starting
Cox International Thu Nov 05, 2015 1:21 pm
Would have loved to supply the part 
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Re: First time starting
RknRusty Thu Nov 05, 2015 2:49 pm
Hey Chuck,
George has a good point about checking the compression. It would cause the same symptom of kicking the prop loose as a flood. Any time I flood one, I do as he also mentioned; close the needle and burn off the flood, then start over. Prime against the side of the piston as it blocks the exhaust port. Your fuel sounds just fine.
And even aside from a balance problem, you'll probably never get any glue to do the job on that part especially in that area. If you really want to try, I'd say scar it up really well with some coarse sandpaper, wash it off with acetone and try JB Weld, with a smear all the way around the outside of the cam ring. Inside will be in the way of seating on the drive plate. You could even scribe a groove around it and wind a couple of tight wraps of thin copper wire. Or a thin aluminum collar, but that's getting overboard. It'll be the fanciest cam ring at CEF. Bernie's will be in the mail before the glue fully cures.
George has a good point about checking the compression. It would cause the same symptom of kicking the prop loose as a flood. Any time I flood one, I do as he also mentioned; close the needle and burn off the flood, then start over. Prime against the side of the piston as it blocks the exhaust port. Your fuel sounds just fine.
And even aside from a balance problem, you'll probably never get any glue to do the job on that part especially in that area. If you really want to try, I'd say scar it up really well with some coarse sandpaper, wash it off with acetone and try JB Weld, with a smear all the way around the outside of the cam ring. Inside will be in the way of seating on the drive plate. You could even scribe a groove around it and wind a couple of tight wraps of thin copper wire. Or a thin aluminum collar, but that's getting overboard. It'll be the fanciest cam ring at CEF. Bernie's will be in the mail before the glue fully cures.
gcb wrote:crs1945,
After you replace (not repair) the starter cam, try starting with a prime only (needle valve completely closed). If it still backfires and loosens the prop screw, try adding a glow plug gasket and/or a larger prop (~6x2, 6x3) for flywheel action.
Once it easily starts and runs a prime, THEN fill the tank, open the needle 3 turns, and try again.
Good luck with it.
George
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while you're doing it!
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Re: First time starting
crs1945 Fri Nov 06, 2015 7:45 am
Bernie,
Cox Internat. is where I ordered from>
Cox Internat. is where I ordered from>
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Join date : 2015-10-06
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