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Enya .19 C/L and other things.......... Cox_ba12




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Enya .19 C/L and other things.......... Empty

Enya .19 C/L and other things..........

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Enya .19 C/L and other things.......... Empty Enya .19 C/L and other things..........

Post  rsv1cox Sat Sep 03, 2016 6:39 pm

Like I need another Enya .19, control line or otherwise but this puppy popped up on ebay for $14.95 shipped and Mr. impulse took over.  Working Enya #3 glow plug, mounting holes that have not been over drilled, a full head of fins, unmolested head and case screws, turns free, a Top Flight Nylon prop. and complete with needle valve, what more can an Enya guy ask for.  Downside is a cracked drive washer mentioned and pictured in the ad, but I have new spares.  Gonna love cleaning it up, been awhile.  

Enya .19 C/L and other things.......... Enya_112

I was worried about the F4U OS .20 picking up fuel from a low mounted tank.  Shouldn't have, it draws and runs fine on my test stand.  I should be an OS Max guy, every one that I have runs great, can't say that for all my Enyas.  But I buy the worst of the worst Enyas and the OS's I have have always been in great as bought condition.

Enya .19 C/L and other things.......... T_hand10

Enya .19 C/L and other things.......... T_hand11

Rusty got me going on "T" handles.  Found a set at Wally's for the same price as the .19.  It seems like a lot of prop (11/6) for that .19 to swing.  

Enya .19 C/L and other things.......... Enya_110

Speaking of test stands.  I was getting ready to run the OS when I noticed the test stand fuel tanks fuel looked like something other than normal.  Squirted a little out of the filler bulb and it was the consistency of molasses.  Took both apart and cleaned them, wish I had taken a before picture, really nasty.  Then I got to thinking, hey we all face the same problem.  I wonder what my metal fuel tanks look like......  I usually flush them out or at least empty them after use but these test stand items got bypassed.

Enya .19 C/L and other things.......... Fuel_011
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Post  Ken Cook Sun Sep 04, 2016 7:09 am

Bob, I will offer my advice. Of course this is in the event your choosing to run this plane in a control line setup.  When a tank is mounted in a fuse as you picture funny things happen. Seeing that the tank is twice as high as it is wide, the weight of the fuel above the pickup ( head pressure ) is at work. Essentially what you start off with is a very rich run, followed by a screaming lean run due to less head pressure as the tank depletes. I have no idea what your internal piping configuration is within the tank, but if you choose to run the tank in the manner you have you might want to switch your internals to uniflow which you may already have now. The uniflow pipe can be used to adjust for tank height and not the clunk. Why isn't the tank sitting on top of the beams? If the beams are run back into the fuse, a typical 1" high tank with the engine mounted upright generally places your centerline of pickup relatively close with your tank mounted horizontally on top of those beams.

Uniflow can assist with the engine run, but it doesn't adjust your tank height. Low is low and high is high. Seeing that the uniflow pipe is what dictates tank height internally, if it comes uncovered the run will go crazy. It's certainly worth a shot though because I've seen some of the craziest things work and what should work, never work.

                 Plastic tanks have a considerable radius in the corners due to blow molding. It's a good practice to file the back edge of the  clunk on a angle to allow for the pickup to nestle onto the side of the tank for a cleaner shut off and a more positive fuel delivery.It's very important not to obstruct fuel delivery and the pickup when filed  in this configuration can suck itself to the side of the tank.  Fuel doesn't get pinned in the very rear corner as most would think. It actually goes up the side wall of the tank. Using a Dremel, cut a cross hair groove in the end of the pickup so that in no way fuel delivery is obstructed. Unfortunately, when you do grind or file the clunk you significantly reduce the weight of the clunk. This can pose problems unless you have the stock soft pliable tubing that comes with the Sullivan tanks. This is known as mystery tubing. I have never found the actual product they use that comes with the tank itself. I have tubing that's very close.

               Here is a picture of the Sullivan heavy duty clunk. http://www.advantagehobby.com/32926/SULS396/S396-HW-Klunk-Large-Tanks/  I have no idea about this website, I'm just posting the picture. I use these clunks in my plastic tanks due to their shape and also weight. This clunk is 2x the weight of the standard that comes with the tank. These should be offered in all of the tanks, they work and work well.

       I'm in no way suggesting your tank won't work, I'm just saying that I've experienced similar situations and problems due to similar mounting. I would discard your Top Flite props or use them for static display. I've mentioned this over and over on here as they're extremely brittle at this point of their age. Many don't realize how dangerous they can be. My flying buddy knows though. The blade went through his cheek and into his mouth. This wasn't on a high powered model either.

               The Enya assuming it's broken in does well on props from a 8x4-9x4. They don't like to be bogged down and they do like some breathing room as far as needle setting is concerned. Don't offer a lean needle setting on launch due to the above issues I mentioned.  A Enya will overheat and sag very quickly usually locking up if it's not happy. THis can also be a sign of a engine not broken in. The 11/6 is way too much prop. Running the stock muffler on the .19 usually results in overheating .  It won't be happy unless you open up the tail end. If you have the Enya muffler with the flipper on the side, these work far superior and the flipper can be opened and the holes also drilled out slightly to allow for even more breathing. The Enya can be heat soaked very quickly due to the thick iron lining which is why I'm so opposed to using mufflers on them.
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Post  rsv1cox Sun Sep 04, 2016 3:31 pm

Thanks Ken, I was hoping that someone knowledgeable about fuel tank technology would chime in, a reason why I posted that picture.

I searched all over for a tank that would fit that F4U and that's the only one that came close. Actually, it's a perfect fit and will feed a R/C engine. I took pains placing that clunk in the best possible position considering the shape. It's meant to be positioned as I have it. I may be able to raise it a bit, but placing on top of the bearers is impossible unless I pull them out again and lower but that interferes with cooling if I use the cowl, something that I want to do. I'm going to use the OS .20.

Somehow I have to route all that spaghetti into proper positions. The down side is, the only way I will know it will feed properly (and I think it will) is to run it in place. But before I do that I am going to have to seal off and paint that firewall and the tank inside it. A gamble.

I thought I had a drive washer for the Enya .19, but it's for the later engine and will not fit. Right now if I tighten the prop it expands the split in the existing drive washer pushing it back against the case and jamming the shaft. Bob Brooks is sending me a couple of replacements.

Bob
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Post  Ken Cook Sun Sep 04, 2016 5:31 pm

You have made some big strides in getting this together. It's certainly worth the effort to try and see what happens first. The main thing is to never install the tank so that you have no access. As I mentioned, I have seen some very strange things work pretty well. Ken
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Post  rsv1cox Sun Sep 04, 2016 5:50 pm

Unfortunately, sealing tanks in is getting to be a trend with me. I sealed the tank on my Scout like the previous owner did when I rebuilt it. But I haven't even started it yet so I don't know how it will work, but I could get to it if I had to.

Enya .19 C/L and other things.......... Scout_11

With the F4U, the previous builder didn't allow for any access to either a bell crank mount or the fuel tank as he intended it for R/C, so I'm just going with the flow. In his defense, he intended to power it electrically.
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