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Post  chevyiron420 Tue Jan 17, 2017 4:02 pm

Are any of the front carb crankshafts better than others? Some years back I seen a counterweighted crank but didnt remember what model it came from. Recently I noticed a few of the cranks have a center divot machined in the front. I wonder if the ones with the center drilled are the same ones that are counterweighted ? I have had to stop using 5.5 inch props because of breaking cranks. I assume its due to over speed. I would appreciate any info you may have.
Phil
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Post  chevyiron420 Tue Jan 24, 2017 12:51 am

Well, I answered one of my own questions. I found one of my engines with the center dimple in the end of the crank. I removed the cylinder and looked in with a light. Sure enough its a counterweighted crank. Now the question is, do they hold up better?
Phil
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Post  Marleysky Tue Jan 24, 2017 10:26 am

Call it "karma" ?  I was just disassembling an older Testor/McCoy 049 I bought off eBay the PO had broke the con rod trying to get the cylinder off. Unseen in the posted photos, the crankshaft pin had broke off also.  I had a replacement cylinder and piston. I was not sure I had a crankshaft. The broken crankshaft was a "counterbalanced " style. The crankshaft I found in my "unknown" parts bin is not ground down "not counterbalanced "
Looks to me, because the crank pin was located on the "thin" portion of the crankshaft, the counterbalance design was the weak spot.
The question I now have is the pin on the crankshaft is in a different position (4 o'clock) vs the broken pin was at 2 o'clock!  Could this be a Right handed crankshaft?
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Post  Oldenginerod Tue Jan 24, 2017 3:16 pm

Marleysky wrote:
The question I now have is the pin on the crankshaft is in a different position (4 o'clock) vs the broken pin was at 2 o'clock!  Could this be a Right handed crankshaft?

The only reason I can see for the difference is that your engine must be the wen-mac type engine with the vertical front venturi and the other (4 o'clock version) could be from the non-reed valve Testors plastic case type which used side induction.
The port can be seen at the front of the mounting rail.
wen mac testors crankshafts 100_3010
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Post  chevyiron420 Tue Jan 24, 2017 6:49 pm

Marleysky wrote:Call it "karma" ?  I was just disassembling an older Testor/McCoy 049 I bought off eBay the PO had broke the con rod trying to get the cylinder off. Unseen in the posted photos, the crankshaft pin had broke off also.  I had a replacement cylinder and piston. I was not sure I had a crankshaft. The broken crankshaft was a "counterbalanced " style. The crankshaft I found in my "unknown" parts bin is not ground down "not counterbalanced "
Looks to me, because the crank pin was located on the "thin" portion of the crankshaft, the counterbalance design was the weak spot.
The question I now have is the pin on the crankshaft is in a different position (4 o'clock) vs the broken pin was at 2 o'clock!  Could this be a Right handed crankshaft?
I almost bought a parts engine on ebay with a busted rod like you described. I needed cranks so I sent a message to the seller about the crank pin and sure enough it was broke. I would have been mad for sure if I had bought it and the fault had not been revealed on the auction.
I just got two very nice testors mccoy red head 049's with the stunt tanks, and also two parts engines are on the way. I am tickled.
I think your replacement crank is from the engine posted previously.
Phil
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Post  Marleysky Tue Jan 24, 2017 7:28 pm

Rod-
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Post  Marleysky Tue Jan 24, 2017 7:29 pm

Delete this post


Last edited by Marleysky on Tue Jan 24, 2017 9:05 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Blip double posted blank message)
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Post  Marleysky Tue Jan 24, 2017 7:32 pm

Rod- thanks for the input, you are right, I think the crank came from, or was the only salvageable part from an old pipe bomb.  That would explain why the hole would be 90 degrees off....noon to three oClock.

Phill,.....so do you use "sniper software" to outbid me?  Only kidding Laughing
I did a double check and verified that the counterbalanced crank DID have the dimple on the front of the shaft.

Oops possible double posted?
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Post  Oldenginerod Wed Jan 25, 2017 6:03 am

Marleysky wrote:Rod- thanks for the input, you are right, I think the crank came from, or was the only salvageable part from an old pipe bomb.  That would explain why the hole would be 90 degrees off....noon to three oClock.

Phill,.....so do you use "sniper software" to outbid me?  Only kidding Laughing
I did a double check and verified that the counterbalanced crank DID have the dimple on the front of the shaft.

Oops possible double posted?

I bought a parts lot ages back that was advertised as OK Cub, but I found not one OK Cub part in it. Included probably 20 brand new piston/rod assemblies and a half a dozen crankshafts. Tuned out to be mostly WenMac as far as I can tell. I know I've used a couple of pistons in other engines and I think I swapped out one crankshaft, but can't remember. I haven't checked that closely to see what differences there may be in the cranks. When you speak of a "dimple", do you mean in the centre of the threaded nose of the crank?
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Post  Marleysky Wed Jan 25, 2017 7:14 am

Rod, yes. Front of threaded portion, where prop nut goes on.
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