Is this 12V ? now w/pictures

Hi Eric, consider making 2 cones to fit snugly over the gear. 1/2" ID rubber hose might fit well and will work for your larger spinners. Most of my spinners are the small aluminum Tee Dee .049 style. Your "2nd" cone could be a shorter piece of hose that fits inside the 1/2" hose. Something like fuel-line hose that's 1/2" OD and 5/16" ID. Use "Shoe-Goo" to glue it in. Swapping from one cone to the other could be a PIA though. Maybe a small hose would fit tight-enough inside the larger one without gluing it in?

The starter that I made uses a 540 "can-motor" (Mabuchi or Johnson) that was cannibalized from a 12V air-compressor. I wrapped the motor with some thin aluminum sheet, installed a momentary-switch, routed the wiring out through a hole-plug in the other end and held it together using hose-clamps.

It's purely "redneck" but has worked for decades.

I see that you added photos. COOL! You won't need the noise-reduction thingy's on the motor-terminals.. so I'd just snip them off.

I can't remember the amp-rating on my momentary switch.. but you'll only be applying "short-pulses" when you use the starter. Notice on mine, that I installed my switch inside a plastic cap. That's a safety feature to prevent the button from being pushed when you put the starter down on the ground.

You can connect your starter to the 12V fuel-pump receptacles on your power-panel. The polarity (in/out) switch allows reversing your starter's rotation for use on L/H props.

Another note about most larger sized DC motors is------ they don't care too much if it is 9VDC to 18VDC except for heat when driven with higher voltage

My El-Cheapo Tower starter was designed for the 12VDC power panel drive

I got a set of battery holders and set 2 Nimh (I think they are 7.4VDC each) wired in series they push about 15VDC and my starter does not seem to care...mostly because the ON time is less than 15 to 20 seconds

RE; The DC 540 can motor.... these were very popular before brush-less motors and I have seen several of them for "buy it now" 3 to 5 motors in the lot for a low $35 price... so at least do an e-bay search as this is a great starter motor candidate

The car wiper motor is a great candidate as well as the DC motors in many of those cheesy Truck cab fans

Any way a cool project for sure ----but If you see a Hornet starter at a swap meet of fall into free shipping, on sale, with coupon I think my final cost on the Sullivan Hornet was around 17 bucks

I am a heretic in my old age... I start every engine with electric finger after properly priming...and I can tell when priming if I flooded an engine....

Never ever E-Finger a flooded engine no matter what size

fredvon4 wrote:

I am a heretic in my old age... I start every engine with electric finger after properly priming...and I can tell when priming if I flooded an engine....

Never ever E-Finger a flooded engine no matter what size

Good advice Phred! I'm in the habit of applying only VERY light-pressure to the spinner. I actually let the cone "slip" slightly.. like engaging a "clutch". It's better to have a lower-powered electric-starter for 1/2A engines.. if you're going to use one.

One more thing.. I've mentioned this before. I keep a small container of light-oil in my flight-support box. I ALWAYS place a few drops on the prop drive-plate before applying any pressure from an electric-starter. Flip the prop a few times to work the oil into the mating-surfaces. It's worth the few seconds that it takes.. and provides a cushion to lessen friction compared to grinding dry parts against each other. Apply "quick-blips" with approx. the same duration as a starter-spring would produce.. and no longer than that. The heat from friction will come very quickly with prolonged cranking. Beware of any "grey-goo" around your drive-plate. That would be ground-Aluminum mixed with fuel. Not good.

I used to watch in horror at the local RC field, when flyer's would crank their engines with an electric starter. They would crank their engines excessively without applying a drop of oil between the case and drive-plate . There's just no need for that.

I too, am a bit anal about the prop drive lube... but in my mind.... I do not seriously think you can do much CC NOSE damage if just a "normal greasy" engine... they tend to leak fuel there any way.. Because I e-finger all my 1/2a stuff I use two thrust washers...a misnomer unless it is a pusher engine

I use the steel close to CC and Phenolic close to prop drive....there is always room for both.. I run these with 28% castor so I just use a drop of fuel as my drive lube...but like I said--- most of these engines are never squeaky dry and clean so I doubt much NOSE damage unless you are grinding away for minutes-- instead of seconds

I would like (as I do) users of a E-finger.. to build the engine.. lube/fill it... spin for 3 secs with E-finger...then open the back to see if the Pushing back on the Crank shaft caused interference with the Back Plate (TeeDee/Medallion) or Reed holder... (All Bees)...if true---- and you still want to reliably use E-finger... add more thrust washers to reduce the fore aft play

fredvon4 wrote:

I would like (as I do) users of a E-finger.. to build the engine.. lube/fill it... spin for 3 secs with E-finger...then open the back to see if the Pushing back on the Crank shaft caused interference with the Back Plate (TeeDee/Medallion) or Reed holder... (All Bees)...if true---- and you still want to reliably use E-finger... add more thrust washers to reduce the fore aft play

That's more great advice Phred.. I've never removed a drive-plate from any of my Cox engines. I never knew "how".. until becoming a member here. I haven't tried it yet. There's several threads explaining "how-to".. I've just never done it. Some of my old CC's show some in/out crank-play.. so I should give those some attention. What's the OD measurement on a standard "Bee" crank where a washer/shim would be fitted?