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Havoline 2T as after run oil? Empty Havoline 2T as after run oil?

Post  aungmyatoo Mon Apr 30, 2018 8:35 pm

After shopping spree on eBay, got bunch of space bugs. After enjoying, dismantling and clean up, realised that I have run out of after run oil.
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Post  aungmyatoo Mon Apr 30, 2018 8:38 pm

Can I use it as after run oil???
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Post  aungmyatoo Mon Apr 30, 2018 8:39 pm

Can I use it as after run oil???
Havoline 2T as after run oil? Img_2821
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Post  rsv1cox Tue May 01, 2018 6:52 am

I don't see why not although I don't see that oil's weight.    

Most after run oils are a mixture, often with ATF Automatic Transmission Fluid being the main ingredient.  Anything that is light weight and will preserve your engines are fine.  But don't ever use WD-40.

I have used RemOil for years occasionally followed by an application of an after run oil without ever experiencing a problem.
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Post  aungmyatoo Tue May 01, 2018 8:51 am

rsv1cox wrote:I don't see why not although I don't see that oil's weight.    

Most after run oils are a mixture, often with ATF Automatic Transmission Fluid being the main ingredient.  Anything that is light weight and will preserve your engines are fine.  But don't ever use WD-40.

I have used RemOil for years occasionally followed by an application of an after run oil without ever experiencing a problem.  

May I know what will happen with WD40?
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Post  Jason_WI Tue May 01, 2018 9:31 am

WD-40 will gum up an engine in short order once all the solvents in that oil evaporate.

I have used synthetic 2 stroke oil with good results.
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Post  RknRusty Tue May 01, 2018 12:34 pm

WD 40 was never intended to be used as a lubricant, though they shamelessly let people believe it. It's great for cleaning and un-sticking mechanical things, removing moisture, and breaking down light rust. After it's done its intended job, if not cleaned out and replaced with oil, it will continue to attract moisture and cause parts to seize up and grind themselves to slag. Fishermen are famous for doing this to their salt water reels and have to replace them every year.

The ARO of many people's choice is ~10w air tool-oil. It's crystal clear and stays wet. I sometimes use Singer sewing machine oil, also 10w and clear... probably the same stuff. And it comes in a small bottle at WalMart in the fabric section.
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Post  Surfer_kris Tue May 01, 2018 4:05 pm

I think the ideal oil depends on what it will be used for. If it is for lubrication in between flights during the same season, I do prefer oils that are soluble in methanol (which ATF oils are not). The solubility really improves the starting.

ATF oil may well work as a conserving oil for storage, but that is not really an "after run" oil purpose then.
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Post  crankbndr Tue May 01, 2018 4:33 pm

One of the unique properties of castor is its soluble in alcohol, I know of no petroleum based oils that are. Someone needs to tell the idiots in charge that gas and alcohol don't mix, they are too dumb to figure it themselves.
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Post  Jason_WI Tue May 01, 2018 5:23 pm

I'll take ethanol in gas vs MTBE in drinking water any day
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Post  getback Wed May 02, 2018 5:46 pm

Jason_WI wrote:I'll take ethanol in gas vs MTBE in drinking water any day
Thumbs Down Damn i had to look that up beeing in the country with a well Thumbs Up 10W is your friend . Babe Bee .049
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Post  KariFS Thu May 03, 2018 2:04 am

Jason_WI wrote:I'll take ethanol in gas vs MTBE in drinking water any day

I don't mind the occasional ethanol in my drinking water drunken

Ethanol in gas is not smart. Ethanol has much less energy, so having it in gas increases fuel consumption. Fuel injected and lambda-controlled vehicles are OK with it, but engines with carburetors often require a readjustment to avoid a lean mixture.

I use 10W air tool oil too, both as assembly oil, for preservation and also after run. But my practical experiment is very limited. The few Babe Bees I have run have started well after air tool oil treatment. My cheap nail guns came with a little squeeze bottle full of oil, it is handy for applying it out on the field.

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Post  balogh Fri May 04, 2018 2:14 pm

I have always used Bernie's After run oil https://coxengines.ca/coxlube-after-run-oil.html that is blue when applied and stays thin for some time, but after, say, 2 years of application in my engines, becomes yellowish and tends to gum up.
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Post  rsv1cox Fri May 04, 2018 3:17 pm

balogh wrote:I have always used Bernie's After run oil https://coxengines.ca/coxlube-after-run-oil.html that is blue when applied and stays thin for some time, but after, say, 2 years of application in my engines, becomes yellowish and tends to gum up.

Hmmm, not good news, I bought it from Cox Int. about a month ago, haven't used it yet.

I just found Prather after run oil here:

https://aeromarinercboats.com/products/prather-after-run-engine-oil

It's been about 30 years since I got my last bottle, a few drops goes a long way.  All my engines were stored using it and all came out of storage like new with no gum-up problems.  IMO it's the best after run oil for our engines out there.  Cheaper too.
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Post  Surfer_kris Fri May 04, 2018 4:25 pm

balogh wrote:I have always used Bernie's After run oil https://coxengines.ca/coxlube-after-run-oil.html that is blue when applied and stays thin for some time, but after, say, 2 years of application in my engines, becomes yellowish and tends to gum up.

It is not soluble in the fuel either, so it is not suitable as an after run oil between outings...
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Post  balogh Sat May 05, 2018 8:47 am

I put 3 or 4 drops on the cylinder. Turn the shaft a couple times to wet the cylinder wall. And the engine spits it out during the first millisecond after it starts..
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Post  Surfer_kris Sat May 05, 2018 3:50 pm

An oil that is not soluble in the fuel will form droplets which can hit the glow plug cavity and stay there.

Try a proper after run oil and you'll se the difference. Wink
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