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Control line T-28/Enya .29 engine removal.......Somewhat destructive Babe_b10
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Dieselized .049 with no Teflon disk or o-rings.

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Post  rsv1cox on Mon Apr 29, 2019 5:01 pm

I have put this off and put this off. Time to break some eggs.

Darn, I really don't want to do this but the thought of that Enya wasting away eats at me!!!!

Calm before the storm.

Control line T-28/Enya .29 engine removal.......Somewhat destructive Spike_10

I tried everything, about every modeling tool that I own. I pried, sawed, and hoped to no avail. Finally I peeled off the balsa top, then pried up on the struts and the module popped out. The builder I believe didn't trust the module to stay put in flight by friction alone so he glued it in with some sort of red adhesive??

Control line T-28/Enya .29 engine removal.......Somewhat destructive Spike_12
Control line T-28/Enya .29 engine removal.......Somewhat destructive Spike_11

Control line T-28/Enya .29 engine removal.......Somewhat destructive Spike_15

I don't think that even the family Stradivari could piece this cowling back together but I'm going to give it a try.

Control line T-28/Enya .29 engine removal.......Somewhat destructive Spike_14

Sitting in a 50/50 mix of kerosene and Marvel Mystery oil right now until I figure out what to do with it. Crock pot/Simple Green removes anodizing and I would like to save what I can, but the engine is well locked up.

Help.................
Control line T-28/Enya .29 engine removal.......Somewhat destructive Spike_13




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Post  NEW222 on Mon Apr 29, 2019 8:55 pm

Well, the only two things that come to mind, other than the crock pot you want to avoid are either let it soak in glow fuel for a few days, or, put it in either an oven or use a torch to get it freed up again. This is however, based on it being castor locked. Neither of these *SHOULD* not hurt the anodizing. Once you get it freed up, you know what to do as you do it well. Also, the above suggestions are based on you not already trying those methods!
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Post  getback on Tue Apr 30, 2019 8:43 am

That's a Nice-un lol Putting the cowl back together is going to bee something , Kero and Marvel thats a new one on me but whatever works !
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Post  rsv1cox on Tue Apr 30, 2019 12:12 pm

getback wrote:That's a Nice-un lol Putting the cowl back together is going to bee something , Kero and Marvel thats a new one on me but whatever works !

Kerosene and MMO a poor man's variation of Ed's Red bore cleaner.  I used MMO because I'm out of non-synthetic ATF and I don't always trust acetone.  

Academic anyway, the anodized head is toast as the glow plugs threads are stripped.  First time I have seen this in any Enya.  PO must have been a brute.  Disappointing though as I was all set up to run it.

No matter, I have many Enya .29's I just have to choose one.  But, if I don't go with the red head I will have to cut new exhaust and needle holes in the cowling.  

Control line T-28/Enya .29 engine removal.......Somewhat destructive Enya_221

I did get the little Cox 5cc vented to run though after trying Traxx 10% to no fun.  Then it ran fine on Cox 35% but fuel leaked out of the bottom vent tube.  Got to swap the tank top to bottom but then the overflow tube won't align with the hole in the cars body.  

Overall not a great day.

Sad

Edit add: What am I thinking of.........forgot all about this little beauty Sad that I haven't stripped the paint from yet. Might just swap heads.

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Might try all three, best runner gets the job.
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Post  Oldenginerod on Tue Apr 30, 2019 5:24 pm

The Enyas normally have a brass insert in the head rather than the plug screwing directly into alloy. Must have really cranked that sucker down. 1/4" UNEF may be hard to find, but I'd probably try for a Helicoil.
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Post  Oldenginerod on Tue Apr 30, 2019 5:27 pm

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Post  Ken Cook on Tue Apr 30, 2019 8:37 pm

Bob, Bob Matte might be able to repair that with a helicoil. http://www.flyfreeflight.com/Site/Home.html He's reasonable for sure and he would more than likely have the proper size in stock without having to purchase several of them.
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Post  rsv1cox on Wed May 01, 2019 6:29 am

Thanks all

Pat King recommended Jim Lee (relative of Clarence?) to do a helicoil repair.

Yes, no brass insert in the sand casts. They arrived with the 5002 ovals/airfoils .29 and others.

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Post  Ken Cook on Wed May 01, 2019 3:59 pm

Bob, Jim slipped my brain waves. He's a very nice guy. I met him a few times in Huntersville. Here's his site http://www.leemachineshop.com/
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Post  NEW222 on Wed May 01, 2019 7:54 pm

Not cheap, but apparently better than Heli-Coil. I believe this is because it seals at the head. I know a couple people that have used these and they swear by them. I have read all good, in both RC and other applications. May be worth reading into should you decide to try it. They do make 1/4-32 for our glow plugs.

https://www.timesert.com/
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Post  rsv1cox on Thu May 02, 2019 6:29 am

Thanks Ken and Chancey.

Considering that stripped glow plug hole I tossed it in the crock pot yesterday about 3 PM and forgot about it until about 10. Unpluged it and just left it in the pot.

This morning I washed it off in Simple Green, rinsed it, blew it out with compressed air and back to the kero/MMO mix until I get a chance to deal with it.

Yup, removed all the anodizing.

Wonder if I should have it (and the drive washer) anodized first then repair the GP hole.............or visa versey.
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Post  Oldenginerod on Thu May 02, 2019 6:36 am

Has anyone ever used any of this stuff?
Control line T-28/Enya .29 engine removal.......Somewhat destructive Screen14
Picked up a can of red on special the other day.   Got a few red parts need re-colouring, so for the display pieces I thought it might do a good enough job.  The can says it's heat proof and fuel proof but I suspect a nitro engine may be pushing its limits.
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Post  fredvon4 on Thu May 02, 2019 9:21 am

Bob anodize first...the non aluminum insert may mess with the electrodes or anodes
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Post  NEW222 on Thu May 02, 2019 11:15 am

Good point Fred. I myself, would not have thought of that. While it still may work, it is definately not worth the risk.
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Post  rsv1cox on Thu May 02, 2019 12:03 pm

fredvon4 wrote:Bob  anodize first...the non aluminum insert may mess with the electrodes or anodes

Thanks Fred, I'll remember that.

But if I can find some of that Dupli-color stuff that Rod showed, I may give that a try on a test piece.

Found it:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dupli-Color-MC200-Red-Metal-Cast-Anodized-Color-11-oz/254203982372?epid=1811805786&hash=item3b2fbcf224:g:-0EAAOSwV9RcuJr~
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Post  Oldenginerod on Sat May 25, 2019 4:56 am

Well Bob, I know you probably don't need the temptation, but have you found this one yet?
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/24-Early-ENya-19-redhead-c-l-model-airplane-engine/153501390307?hash=item23bd6555e3:g:~rwAAOSwlk9c6Jjz
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