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Cox Engine of The Month
October-2020
Jason_WI's

"Pieces and parts RR-1. New crank, rotary valve, and drive plate. Early #1 cylinder. Drilled out golden bee backplate. Battle hardened crankcase and tank."



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Post  Gordinir8 on Fri Oct 02, 2020 2:54 pm

Got this beautiful cox tee dee .049 today, my first tee dee actually, gave it a good clean and try to start it but because of cracked carburetor case it only starts for 1-2 seconds and then stops. Back in the bench again and a few drops of cyano seal everything. With a couple of flips engine starts, managed to get 16000 rpm on 15% nitro, engine also has this 128 tpi needle assembly that makes tuning very precise. Next step is to buy a new case, put this carburetor i bought from EX model and put it on my Q tee.

A couple of questions, engine has also this hi compression 1702 i believe glow plug with 4 shims, can i use a standard cox carburetor or tee dee's use only those? Also there is a small blocked nipple on the side of the plastic carb case, what is the purpose of it?

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Post  Marleysky on Fri Oct 02, 2020 5:15 pm

Baaa, comcast just dropped my connection and lost all my typing!  

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Post  Marleysky on Fri Oct 02, 2020 5:21 pm

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Hope this is self explanatory. My connection speed is to slow to type.
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Post  Gordinir8 on Fri Oct 02, 2020 6:16 pm

Perfect thank you.
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Post  fredvon4 on Sat Oct 03, 2020 1:33 pm

Ignore the timed pressure crap on crank case side you will not like it

Starting is a problem and you must fuss with a way for the fuel line to stay on that dinky slippery plastic nipple

Use a bladder or get a pressure back plate with a metal nipple

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Post  Gordinir8 on Sun Oct 04, 2020 6:49 am

I will use it only if it is necessary, didn't knew that there are pressure back plates available but using either the side or a backplate output isn't the starting problem the same? May I ask what is a bladder?
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Post  getback on Sun Oct 04, 2020 8:53 am

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Post  Ken Cook on Sun Oct 04, 2020 8:58 am

Using pressure is a major pain in the rear. As soon as you turn the prop you can flood the engine. If your not familiar with the procedure it gets very frustrating. If your tank isn't plumbed properly, it also becomes problematic. A bladder is superior to backplate pressure. Most backplate pressure nipples are far too large. You only need a hole in the nipple a few thousandth's in diameter not a 1/16" hole. You can't run a engine too lean on bladder. A bladder is a piece of latex surgical tubing that you inflate like a balloon and it's under pressure. You use a pinch off device until you get the engine to burp out a prime and then you release the pinch off. In addition, when a bladder depletes toward the end the run goes rich whereas a hard tank goes very lean which can also damage things. The 128 tpi needle is designed to run pressure bladders. The fine threads not only offer a finite adjustment but it keeps fuel from leaking around it. When using pressure via bladder, crank pressure, case pressure, you can open the venturi to the max size. A TD can't be enlarge more than 5/32" as you will break out into the jet holes. However, a engine running on bladder pressure doesn't require a venturi so you can eliminate it entirely. When I do this, I run a remote needle on a bracket with a spigot that directs fuel into the case.
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