Medallion 049 rc throttle

Scotland421 wrote:Bon chance....I had one and the cylinder wouldnae come off.

It's not supposed to come off.  That'd end the flight right quick if it did....

The Intact Mark

Some use a piece of leather Which forms a loop with a handle and attaches securely A very simple tool
But that I do not really use I have a cylinder that I am unable to unscrew i use visse grip I usually use the motor frequently Cosmetic damage doesn't really bother me Unless it is a motor to keep in the collection new in the box In this case I would not use it

davidll1984 wrote:Some use a piece of leather Which forms a loop with a handle and attaches securely A very simple tool
But that I do not really use I have a cylinder that I am unable to unscrew i use visse grip I usually use the motor frequently Cosmetic damage doesn't really bother me Unless it is a motor to keep in the collection new in the box In this case I would not use it

Rape and Pillage. Sorry
Bob

Never use a " spanner" across the exhaust ports !

Leather strip and gently grip fins at tdc area with piston at tdc.

Heat crank case to make it expand a bit then try.

If it can be cleaned without cylinder removal all the better.

I would only remove a cylinder to fit exhaust ring/silencer or to remove crank to make sure the small lubrication channel in the main bearing area is not clogged with old castor.

I find UK petrol quite good at removing old castor, but give it time to do its thing. A stiff paint brush or tooth brush helps.

Cellulose thinners may be more powerfull to creep into that lube channel, as might be brake cleaner. Petrol is cheaper...

Petrol will effect the fuel tube in the tank.

These engines are quite small and fit in small jam jars keeping the quantity of solvents needed minimal. I filter and reuse "dirty" solvents until spent.

That engine does not look "dirty" but may be stiff due to gum inside...

As that engine is a front carb one, maybe it does not have the lube channel I mentioned, I just cannot remember.

I have 2 td09 to "clean" so will know when i Clean them.

Is petrol ok with the plastic "manifold" ?

I will not be taking that risk as I am in need of 2 new manifolds which as very difficult to get in UK.

The factory storage oil is very thin and should not create ”gum”. I have had some NIB engines that were stuck, but there were practically no accumulation, so I did not disassemble them, just a little heat to free them up, and new oil.

I have had some cylinders come loose when attempting to loosen the glowhead, that would solve the situation obviously.

If by ”petrol” you mean ”gas” as in ”fuel for spark ignition engines” , I would not use it. Very toxic these days and you don’t know what additives there are. Probably will harm the plastics, is very flammable and bad for your health.

Some guys boil their engines in coolant fluid, some soak them in Simple Green, I usually use a warm ethanol bath in an ultrasonic, but these methods are mainly for seriously gummed and dirty engines. And the hot ethanol does cause some ”cloudiness” to the red colour of the manifold. Lots of info about this in other threads, but most likely overkill for your situation.

Long story short, I’d just remove the glowhead and just gently rotate the crankshaft with the help of a propeller. When you get everything free, add some air tool oil or other thin mineral oil, turn the engine some more and so on. You can also remove the backplate if you want, makes it easier to lubricate the internals.

The crankshaft can be lubricated via the venturi. Or if you want to be really sure, you can support the engine nose down on top of a small jar, and keep the crankcase full of oil until it drips down through the nose. You’ll need to position the crankshaft so that the intake hole is closed, obviously

Are you going to run this engine or put it back in the box? If latter, be sure to clean it really well, as even a small amount of residual oil will stain the cardboard severely.

Edit: the plastic carb body can be removed without removing the cylinder by loosening and removing the collet nut. The collet, as it loosens, will push the drive plate off the crankshaft. It is good to use a lot of oil on the thread and between the collet and drive plate. Also, you’ll need to be very careful with the tools to avoid tool marks on the collet. This way you can safely dip a stubborn engine and preserve the plastic part.

This one seems to be knew, but many dust on it, and the factory oil clogged. But I will not try to dissassemble the cylinder following the reading of your advices.

Regards