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Post  Ken Cook Sun Mar 12, 2023 3:37 pm

Please post pictures up close, operating, cylinder types and general information in regards to these styles of engines. My father never discarded anything that was pertinent to a engine. I found a bunch of parts for Cox stuff such as mufflers, timing shims. The shims are aluminum and he had them wire tied to a few mufflers.They fit the bottom of the cylinder to jack it up off of the case to delete SPI. There was another washer much like a glow plug washer but aluminum. This is for using a muffler on a TD which jacks up the venturi so that it clears the muffler.

So what I found was a Golden Bee tank and the top of it had a rabbet filed into it so that the muffler cleared. It actually has a pin hole that's leaking where he filed it. I put some JB weld on it for now. I have about 4 Babe Bee engines which are dual ported #1 cylinders. I believe these are actual QZ engines. I want to put the mufflers back on these engines but the muffler seems loose on it. This is the style muffler which is aluminum, with a hex base, and the spring steel clip which rotates around the circumference.

In addition to what I believe is the QZ is some engines with a #7 cylinder. One has a throttle sleeve on it. I ran the engine and it started easily however I didn't have much throttle action. It did run quieter in one position vs the other but it didn't do much for low speed and high speed seemed slightly delayed. I was swinging a 6x4 on it which could be responsible for the somewhat high speed delay. The sleeve isn't as tight as I think it should be. Honestly, I never really used these as it was control line always.

My#7 cylinders are stepped wall cylinders. There's no bluing on the surface that the sleeve rotates on. Now I also have a thick walled cylinder which has it's entire surface under the exhaust cutout non blued for what I believe is also for a throttle sleeve. I would like to see a break down of some of your engines if one is inclined to post some pictures.

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Post  Yabby Sun Mar 12, 2023 10:10 pm

I shimmed several of my TD 049 engines to remove SPI and fit the round / hex base aluminium muffler. The little round aluminium washers that are like glow plug washers used to be sold by ExmodeEngines to lift the venturi to help the muffler fit. You still have to turn the NVA upside down anyway to fit the muffler properly. With the cylinder shimmed to remove SPI the muffler will be a bit loose. You can try turning the black spring steel top of the muffler upside down and that will probably tighten it up.
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Post  GallopingGhostler Sun Mar 12, 2023 11:09 pm

Ken, these are the instructions to an R/C conversion kit I bought from Cox International a couple years ago. I intend to convert my Medallion .049 to R/C and reuse it's single bypass port SPI cylinder on another engine. This kit will overcome the problem of robbing power from the Medallion caused by use of a muffler on an SPI cylinder. Net result should be a more powerful R/C Medallion.

It basically is the R/C Bee non-SPI dual port cylinder, piston and exhaust muffler throttle ring with a silicon rubber muffler cover kit. As you notice on your Dad's notch he cut in the Bee's tank to clear a muffler, here it shows how to do that. It comes with an additional shim for the Tee Dee venturi to clear the throttle-muffler and relocating the NVA to the front of the venturi instead of the back for clearance.
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Post  rdw777 Tue Mar 14, 2023 4:52 pm

Ken, Here’s a QRC the three piece muffler…. The cylinder is two bypass ported… No SPI… Looks like a faint # 2 stamped on the lower part of the cylinder…. A good running engine… I use your tank and reed seal recommendations on all my reedy’s… Helps a lot, Thanks….Not the quietest muffler in the world but helps in taking the bite of the top….

throttled cylinder sleeves, mufflers, QZ, QRC etc. 961bde10
throttled cylinder sleeves, mufflers, QZ, QRC etc. 2a261110

Here’s a # 3 cylinder with SPI …ground to accept a throttle sleeve with a round port that  was in my box of parts…I asked about it earlier on the forum and was told it was older than the sleeves with rectangular ports…. I’ve since seen them on cars that you could preset the speed on so not real sure about this one….I put it on a Bee lower end just for a test and it runs and throttles fine ….

CJthrottled cylinder sleeves, mufflers, QZ, QRC etc. 31ce9810
throttled cylinder sleeves, mufflers, QZ, QRC etc. 3e4ebe10

I bought a Golden Bee online and it came with a cast exhaust collector that I don’t believe was original to that engine so I stuck it on a car engine I have which fit just fine… I’ve seen photos of these engines configured that way…The cylinder is # 8…. No SPI…. Single bypass…..

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Post  Ken Cook Tue Mar 14, 2023 7:37 pm

I own one or more of all the examples shown. I do have the same instructions that George posted but mine are not legible. I can somewhat make out the pictorial portion but the wording is almost non existent. What actually retains the muffler with the octagonal bottom?  I know there's a concave like spring steel disc on the top of it to close it off. Does the fin of the cylinder compress this to hold it on. It seems on the cylinders I've tried it on, the fit isn't so good.

              I have two Golden Bee engines which both have the golden stunt tank but the front portion is mill finish aluminum. Cox did offer some of these engine in this configuration and I'm quite sure these were. Both of these engines have thin wall #6 cylinders which are dual port no SPI.  They don't run all out like the #1 Black Widow cylinders does, they're a bit more timid.
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Post  Yabby Tue Mar 14, 2023 8:18 pm

yes, compression of the spring steel clip against the fin and the muffler base against the CK is what makes the mufflers tightish. Some are a bit tightier/looser than others. cyclinder shims will make them looser. They are fairly good without shimms as long as the black spring steel top has still got its tension. I used to use them on TD 049 and was able to fit them reasonably tight without shims. But I had to use the venturi spacers and turn the NVA upside down and backto front to get the venturi to clear the muffler. If you wanted to use a starter spring the NVA required some filing/grinding to get clearance for the spring to fit under the NVA. I dont use the mufflers any longer. Too much trouble. Too many changes needed. If you turn the black spring steel muffler top upside down it will clamp down tighter but you need to ensure the cylinder has still screwed all the way down. Doing this might fit as long as the shimms are the right diameter OD and dont interfere with the muffler ID. So as that the muffler fits over the shimms with good clearance.
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Post  GallopingGhostler Tue Mar 14, 2023 9:00 pm

Ken, I went to the Cox Instructions link to see if perhaps one of the sheets for muffled engines gives a parts breakdown. Unfortunately for some odd reason, over half of the download links, files are unavailable. I just messaged Jacob of the problem.
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Post  rdw777 Wed Mar 15, 2023 6:50 am

Ken, My QRC cylinder has a lip that is below the fins to seal against the top cover of the muffler…..When installing the cylinder/muffler, From when the lip first touches the top cover until cylinder fully seated is about 3/4 turn…. It feels very positive to make a good seal….The overall height of the top cover is .084”…. I included this if you wanted to compare yours for the possibility they have been over compressed…. I doubt it though because it appears to be made of spring steel to allow it to flex….

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