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Post  PV Pilot on Mon Sep 03, 2012 10:28 am

Anyone ever use this stuff?. Supposed to be good for really high nitro contents (50-60%). Just spotted it while looking for foam paint, but I don't think it would work to good for that. Kinda spendy from what I have seen,,$47-ish per can, but it is a one step paint job. You push a button on the bottom of the can and then it mixed the hardener with the paint. Shake and shoot. Polyurethane paint.

http://www.endura.ca/spray.html
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Endura spray bomb Empty Endura Paint

Post  Paulgibeault on Thu Sep 06, 2012 2:06 pm

Hi PV,
I'm from Edmonton where Endura is made. A very old product that I still use to this day.
Reason being is that it can be touch dry after 30 minutes & most inportant is nitro proof.
Used to be available in 5,000 colors, but I see that's changed!
I have not used the aerosol product, but as you say this stuff is not cheap. Also it's an ISOCYANATE based paint & therefore VERY TOXIC. An industrial use product for sure!!
I only justify its use because I only spray it outdoors (with full mask & suit) & only spray but a few ounces per year. ( C/L speed models don't use very much paint at all)
This aerosol looks to be a reasonable deal if one is in a jam, has no compressor, has to spray today & doesn't want to clean up afterwards...
The aerosol is a one shot deal...so use with caution knowing that it's $50 (+post) per coat...
Good Luck.

Cheers, Paul

p.s. If I knew how to attach photo's I could show you the finished product on my models...

PV Pilot wrote:Anyone ever use this stuff?. Supposed to be good for really high nitro contents (50-60%). Just spotted it while looking for foam paint, but I don't think it would work to good for that. Kinda spendy from what I have seen,,$47-ish per can, but it is a one step paint job. You push a button on the bottom of the can and then it mixed the hardener with the paint. Shake and shoot. Polyurethane paint.

http://www.endura.ca/spray.html
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Post  PV Pilot on Thu Sep 06, 2012 4:20 pm

Thank you Paul. It has been a tossup between using the spray bomb stuff or going to the 2 part Klass coat epoxy paints. The price is going to be about the same. Moving twoards hotter fuels with another nitro hobby and need that 60% nitro fuel protection.
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Post  lousyflyer on Thu Sep 06, 2012 4:41 pm

I personally avoid isocyanates. Very bad for you.
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Post  Ken Cook on Thu Sep 06, 2012 6:09 pm

I'm not sure if anyone here has tried Nelson water based polyurethanes, but I had some killer finishes with nitro protection up to 45%. I haven't gone any higher and raw fuel can spill on this without damage. The material has literally no smell and this can be done inside. The paint thins and cleans up with water. The paint will run easily, so practice is required and not all parts should be painted at once. You can paint a side making the lap strokes in an inconspicuous area. It catalyzes chemically with a cross linker and dries to the touch within 15 minutes. The paint takes a bit of practice, I use a sponge brush that results in finishes that you would've thought to have been sprayed. It takes several coats, up to 5 due to the paint going on in a watercolor fashion eventually revealing a deep color. I found all colors including black work better and take less coats with white under them due to the paint being semi- translucent. I've flown the following day with no issues. I use the clear as a top coat with the crosslinker. Without crosslinker, the paint is fuel proof to 10% nitro. The paint can be used and returned to the container assuming no crosslinker has been added. The colors match Monokote better than any paint I ever found and John the owner matches Ultracote colors as well. The colors mix excellent together to provide additional tones. Here is the link: http://www.nelsonhobby.com/hobby_paint.php Ken
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Post  PV Pilot on Thu Sep 06, 2012 8:06 pm

It seems once you exceed 50%, just about all hobby craft style paints turn into a big smeary mess. Done with the hobby paints. A fresh spill on any of those and your wipe rag pulls all the paint off. Imron auto paints are in the research folder as well.
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Post  fit90 on Thu Sep 06, 2012 8:16 pm

I used a lot of Imron on full sized planes. I think it was 5000 series. It is readily commercially available. It is a fairly easy paint to use, pretty forgiving and quite durable. I can not say how it holds up to nitro, though. The supplier down here got really stingy with the reducing agent, probably to adhere to VOC requirements. A little extra reducer goes a long way in getting that glassy finish with Imron. If you try it good luck. I hope you like it.

Bob
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Post  Admin on Thu Sep 06, 2012 9:18 pm

Paulgibeault wrote:

p.s. If I knew how to attach photo's I could show you the finished product on my models...


I put together a tutorial on posting pictures right here. Its easy to do!

_________________
-Jacob


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Post  PV Pilot on Thu Sep 06, 2012 10:01 pm

Well, the stuff i have skimmed over today indicates that Imron holds up to high content nitro.
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Post  PV Pilot on Fri Sep 21, 2012 10:54 am

Decided to give the Klass Coat epoxy clear a try. Two part mix with reducer for my 1.4mm HVLP gun.

On it's way!
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Endura spray bomb Empty Endura "Loki" Mini-Goodyear

Post  Paulgibeault on Wed Sep 26, 2012 10:43 am

THANK-YOU!! P.A.W 1.5cc powered 'Loki' flown at the 2012 British Nationals.

I put together a tutorial on posting pictures right here. Its easy to do![/quote]

Endura spray bomb 20120812
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Post  PV Pilot on Wed Sep 26, 2012 10:50 am

Paulgibeault wrote:THANK-YOU!! P.A.W 1.5cc powered 'Loki' flown at the 2012 British Nationals.

I put together a tutorial on posting pictures right here. Its easy to do!

Endura spray bomb 20120812[/quote]

Thanks Paul! So I take it from your up above post that that plane was painted with the Endura 2 part mix with reducer for a spray gun?. If so, it turned out very nice.
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Endura spray bomb Empty Endura paint job.

Post  Paulgibeault on Wed Sep 26, 2012 3:14 pm

Thanks for the kind words.
Yes indeed, the model was painted with 2 part Endura black. The trim was Endura flourescent orange + a clear coat. (Flourescents require patience to mix because the part "A" is extremely thick & takes a few minutes of stirring to mix with the part "B". Goes on flat requiring the clear coat to bring out the shine.
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Post  PV Pilot on Tue Oct 09, 2012 9:26 am

Well, The Klass Coat clear went on good. I went with a 40 min induction with a 20 min wait in between coats. I mixed up waay to much product though for a HVLP gun, but the way I seen it it was my first time with a HVLP gun and I would have rather had to much than not enough. I have used a convectional pressurized spray gun,,so I was thinking along those lines as far as quantity.

I used 5 oz of the gloss catalyst, 5 oz of the resin and 3 oz of the #500 reducer mixed in after the induction time. Once I got a nice pattern out of the gun, it laid on very nice. 2 coats on the boat. I had 5 oz of product left over after coating my boat stand with 2 coats. 25 PSI at the gun air inlet with the trigger pulled. 72-75° consistent painting/drying temp. About 30-40% humidity as per my old swing gauge. 1.4 mm tip Home Depot/Husky Green ring HVLP gun.

I painted the boat with Top Flite Lustercoat primer and color and let it sit for about a month before clear coating with the Klass Coat clear. So far so good,, no paint lift,,and rock hard.
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Post  gcb on Tue Oct 09, 2012 7:38 pm

What are you folks who use Imron using for face masks? I know at one time forced air masks were recommended.

George
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Post  fit90 on Tue Oct 09, 2012 8:09 pm

Using HVLP equipment and spraying at 30 psi max, usually between 20-25 psi, and painting in a hangar with a good airflow I would spray for up to one hour a day with an old style respirator with two screw in canister style filters made for painting. Painting was just an occasional task and forced air masks and suits were not available to me at the time. If it was a full time job then forced air equipment would have been necessary.

Maybe exposure to paint fumes is why I can be so damn dumb some times, though.

Bob
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