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Post  RknRusty Sun Nov 04, 2012 9:37 pm

I was given two planes today by the president of my flight club. The first is a Baby Flite Streak, nicely built a long time ago. He doesn't remember the kit maker. There are a couple of minor differences between his and mine. His down line leadout is farther forward than mine, and his front doublers look thinner than my 1/16" doublers. He has a Norvel .049 to go with it as soon as he locates it. It has a crack that needs to be glued but otherwise perfect.

Inboard view
I was given two planes today. And I flew an RC plane too. Bfs_ii10

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I was given two planes today. And I flew an RC plane too. Bfs_ii11
Pretty, ain't it!

Bottom view, see the crack in the fuse tail right above the control horn.
Mine got a similar crack when I maidened it tail heavy. This one is a complex crack. It radiates in several directions through the rudder. I'll have to think hard about the best way to repair it.
I was given two planes today. And I flew an RC plane too. Bfs_ii12
Speaking of control horns, how do you remove the pin in this thing?
I was given two planes today. And I flew an RC plane too. Bfs_ii13 I was given two planes today. And I flew an RC plane too. Bfs_ii14

The other plane is still a kit. It's a Guillotine, 48" wingspan I think. I forgot to take a picture of the box. It's an RC kit but maybe I can convert it to CL. It'll take a big engine and 60' lines. And I should be able to convert the ailerons to flaps. If it looks like too much to convert, maybe I can trade it.

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Post  andrew Sun Nov 04, 2012 9:47 pm

RknRusty wrote:This one is a complex crack. It radiates in several directions through the rudder. I'll have to think hard about the best way to repair it.

Speaking of control horns, how do you remove the pin in this thing?

Compress the crack and hit it with a little thin CA.

That's a standard clevis. The pin is swaged in and will not (should not) come out. Just spread the clevis enough to allow the pin to pull out of the control horn hole. Being off the plane, it will be easy to do. If it had been mounted, you can use a flat blade screw driver to open it up ---- just slip the blade between the two ears of the clevis and turn enough to allow you to remove it.
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Post  RknRusty Sun Nov 04, 2012 10:20 pm

andrew wrote:
RknRusty wrote:This one is a complex crack. It radiates in several directions through the rudder. I'll have to think hard about the best way to repair it.

Speaking of control horns, how do you remove the pin in this thing?

Compress the crack and hit it with a little thin CA.

That's a standard clevis. The pin is swaged in and will not (should not) come out. Just spread the clevis enough to allow the pin to pull out of the control horn hole. Being off the plane, it will be easy to do. If it had been mounted, you can use a flat blade screw driver to open it up ---- just slip the blade between the two ears of the clevis and turn enough to allow you to remove it.
Thanks, Andrew. I'll buy some new ones. I want to raise it up one hole. Right now it has less than 20 degrees of deflection. I think I'll use one on my Refried Bean too, instead of putting a z-bend in the wire.

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Post  Cribbs74 Sun Nov 04, 2012 10:31 pm

Good deal! Can't believe it's a beam mount.

The clevis style connector requires a threaded rod. If you didn't already know.
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Post  Cribbs74 Mon Nov 05, 2012 9:51 am

Forgot to ask, how did you like the RC?
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Post  andrew Mon Nov 05, 2012 9:56 am

RknRusty wrote: I'll buy some new ones. I want to raise it up one hole. Right now it has less than 20 degrees of deflection. I think I'll use one on my Refried Bean too, instead of putting a z-bend in the wire.

Rusty --

I think that a clevis (or even a 90 degree bend with keeper) has a significant advantage over Z-bends. It's much easier to change holes with both and the clevis has the added advantage of being adjustable. For an elevator only plane, adjustment is not quite as important since you have some control over line length at the handle. However, for an elevator/flap stunter, having at least one control fully adjustable allows you to fine tune the relationship between the deflection of the flaps vs elevator.

I'm a real fan of the Sullivan Gold-N-Clevis. The Sullivan clevis has interlocking tabs on the threaded part while most other brands are simply rolled over. When you buy your clevises, don't forget to get the threaded rods that screw into them. 2-56 size will be just fine.

Sullivan (top) vs Great Planes

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Post  WingingIt74 Mon Nov 05, 2012 10:34 am

Holy Cow you flew an RC? What will your neighbors think?
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Post  RknRusty Mon Nov 05, 2012 10:52 am

cribbs74 wrote:Forgot to ask, how did you like the RC?
It was alright. The plane was electric, a tough rubbery foam thing with the motor and prop set somewhere about mid-fuselage, but not a pusher. It had a thick wing but no airfoil shape, square lead edge(looked like it was stamped out with a cookie cutter), and turned up tips, maybe 36" or so. It had rudder, elevator and throttle. After fiddling with the controls while looking at the plane, he threw it in the air and I flew it across the field, pausing to learn to turn it left and right, to the tree line and turned around and came back. I had trouble with it sinking in the turns but with throttle and elevator managed to come around and bring it back. I tried to turn for another go around and when it lost altitude in the turn I got the elevator control confused and dorked it at full throttle. I think I scratched his nose up a little, but didn't break anything. He tried to hand me the controls again, but I bowed out. I was surprised I didn't have any confusion with left and right between going and coming.

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Post  RknRusty Mon Nov 05, 2012 10:53 am

WingingIt74 wrote:Holy Cow you flew an RC? What will your neighbors think?
This was at my new club field at Fort Jackson. Unfortunately I didn't get to bother anybody.

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Post  WingingIt74 Mon Nov 05, 2012 10:55 am

Next time I come down to SC, I'll put you on a buddy box and you can fly the $uper Cub Smile
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Post  Cribbs74 Mon Nov 05, 2012 12:40 pm

You probably did so well as you are so used to making split second decisions that when faced with a slow lazy plane you have time to think things through.

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Post  WingingIt74 Mon Nov 05, 2012 1:06 pm

How about I teach you RC and you teach me CL?
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Post  PV Pilot Mon Nov 05, 2012 2:11 pm

Pick up a simulator for the computer Rusty, one with a 4 channel stick box controller, It will get rid of those heebie-jeebies and train you for right, left, up, down.

The Realflight and the Phoenix sims are the top dogs with the controller.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=Rc+flight+simulator&_sacat=0&_from=R40
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Post  RknRusty Mon Nov 05, 2012 2:56 pm

WingingIt74 wrote:How about I teach you RC and you teach me CL?
How about I teach you CL and I'll just watch you fly RC. I'd demolish your pretty plane.


PV Pilot wrote:Pick up a simulator for the computer Rusty, one with a 4 channel stick box controller, It will get rid of those heebie-jeebies and train you for right, left, up, down.

The Realflight and the Phoenix sims are the top dogs with the controller.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=Rc+flight+simulator&_sacat=0&_from=R40
I used to play with a freeware version of Microsoft flightsim, just using the keyboard. I think I made one safe landing at San Fransisco. I plastered the back of the carrier so many times it's funny. I wished I had a decent control set. I don't think the physics were even close to accurate. That was so long ago I think my computer was made of wood.
I would like to have a simulator, even though I doubt if I'll actually pursue RC, but it would still be fun to play with.

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Post  WingingIt74 Mon Nov 05, 2012 2:59 pm

RknRusty wrote:
WingingIt74 wrote:How about I teach you RC and you teach me CL?
How about I teach you CL and I'll just watch you fly RC. I'd demolish your pretty plane.

You can't when your flying on a buddy box, I'd just let go of an intermittent switch and save you Smile
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Post  PV Pilot Tue Nov 06, 2012 10:56 am

RknRusty wrote:I would like to have a simulator, even though I doubt if I'll actually pursue RC, but it would still be fun to play with.

You would surprise yourself at how long you would sit there and practice, just practicing touch and goes, flying inverted, figure 8's, wingovers, and all the rest. It gets your fingers trained on the sticks. It's a bit different than to be hooked to a buddy box,,as that would be/should be the next progression to flying a real RC craft with a instructor after using a simulator. It will save you money in the long run by allowing you to decide if you like it or not before committing fully ($$).

Just my .051ยข
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Post  WingingIt74 Tue Nov 06, 2012 10:59 am

I taught myself RC without a buddy box or simulator.
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Post  mitchg95 Tue Nov 06, 2012 11:39 am

[quote="RknRusty"]
WingingIt74 wrote:How about I teach you RC and you teach me CL?
How about I teach you CL and I'll just watch you fly RC. I'd demolish your pretty plane.


you would and could not destroy it Smile my dad is learning on this plane, it has some cool software programmed into the reciever that tells it if it is up or down and there are 2 sensors inside that looks for ground and the other looks for sky, if they see something different (say you accidently do a dive) it will take control and level the plane and get it flying straight and level again, check this out it will give more info about the system and the plane
http://secure.hobbyzone.com/catalog/HZ/index/index_park_flyers_rtf/HBZ7400.html
it is probly the best electric plane to start with
Babe Bee RC Plane
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Post  WingingIt74 Tue Nov 06, 2012 11:43 am

I've been flying RC for a few years and I've had hot rods to slow flyers and the Super Cub is still my favorite with the PZ Stinson a close second. Now my SC doesn't have the fancy stuff in it, here's my write up on it:
http://www.horizonrcflyers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1711
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Post  PV Pilot Tue Nov 06, 2012 11:46 am

WingingIt74 wrote:I taught myself RC without a buddy box or simulator.

I know alot of people who did that. One guy told me stories of crashing 15+ planes to oblivion before getting the hang of it. He is a great pilot now,,flys at RC/airshows with his buddy flying Christen Eagle 1/4 scales in formation. Really amazing stuff. He wadded up 4 1/4 scales during that learning process.

Persistance does pay off,,just depends how much expendable income you have.

The world has changed now. Realfight simulators with virtual field's, adjustable conditions, ect. Dime a dozen(almost) trainers that fly just as well as a years long home build trainer. The world of instant satisfaction and no real dependency on earned skills.

When I was in college in the mid 80's getting my Associates I had a very smart teacher that once said "There will be two types of mechanic's in the future,, parts replacers and parts suppliers", well, the parts supplier isin't so much a mechanic, but I have met a few that think they are. Sadly, the days of the take it apart and fix it guy has waned dramatically.

The smarter(?) we get, the less dependent we are at earned skills. I was fortunate to be able to experience both sides of it all and luckily still retain alot of it. Althought the retaining part is getting harder and harder as I get older.


I digress, excuse please.



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Post  SuperDave Tue Nov 06, 2012 11:51 am

My Real Flite 5.5 sim offers all the realism I need on the "sticks" to keep my RC skills sharp.

It's available 24/7 regardless of the weather outside. Further it gives me practice on over 40 different airplanes at flying locations located all over the world under varying flight conditions all of which are adjustable.
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