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Post  pkrankow Wed Aug 21, 2013 11:29 pm

RknRusty wrote:So how were your engine runs today? Have you been able to use any of the bladder advice you've gotten in this thread? Lots of people with different ideas, you just have to figure out what works for you. 40' is a big difference from 35'. 45' is about the max for 1/2A. Longer than that gets harder to keep tight if there is any wind unless you're really hauling ass.
Benched 1 run to set up.  I didn't look for a hemostat type clamp because of the plastic clips I have.  The clip worked great!  With the clip rubber banded to the fuse a flick of the thumb or finger and it opens, and a push closes.  I bought these from Hobby King as a add-on for another order, but I have seen them elsewhere before.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__7673__Fuel_Line_Stopper.html

My current bladder holds max 3/4 oz fuel, but pops off if bumped.  I was putting in 1/2 oz fuel and that seemed good.  I felt the run time was short, which was fine since it has been a few weeks since my last flight day, and this was a maiden of the model.

(The other airplane of this design I built flyswattered the tail off several times, got chopped, lightened, wings clipped, and STILL is not worth the wood it is made from.  It's current, sans fuselage, form is still 200g with stunt engine so I built the wing way heavy.  I have learned much about what NOT to do with these two models built side by side.)

Starting was so-so since the difference between primed and flooded isn't much.  One run the turn around was almost instant: fuel, glow driver, flip, go!  Only 1 run though.

I need to get some better music wire, I think I used pushrod for the wheel since it bends fairly easily. The engine offset might also be excessive, but the lines did stay tight...I think the bulkhead has offset of about 1-2 degree, and I used the wire of the single wheel to offset another 3 degree or so.

So I got in 3 solid flights after the first flight.  I had another 6 or so not-launches, where the plane pancaked into the grass and stalled.  I also had 3 or 4 tried and crashed type flights. Easily a dozen starts, maybe more.

I was pleased that I was able to loop inside, loop outside (bigger than inside though), vertical-overhead 8 (eh, it was really vertical, so vertical it came partway down the other side before going back) wing over, inverted...however I absolutely could not horizontal 8.  I don't know if it is me or the plane but I could not get the outside loop portion to work.  I tried 2x.  I think it simply does inside better than outside.

And this was all in about an hour!  Then I had to mow, grass was over a foot by the river.

I also just found a stack of 5.5x4 yellow Tornados...I seem short on 3 pitch props and completely lack 2 pitch. I broke a grey 6x3 Cox prop on the maiden, tried a 6x4 ducky, then went to a 5x4 ducky. I also have some more new Master Airscrew props that I found, but I am not sure the pitch, 5.5 and 6 diameters.

An easy 8 oz of fuel used, at least 6 of which was burned though the engine. This was the first time running this engine since I got it off ebay.

After getting the landing gear replaced I'll try taking it to the school and fly there where I have space.

Phil

(and yes, the plane really is pepto pink and brown)
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Post  RknRusty Wed Aug 21, 2013 11:57 pm

Sounds like you have more airframe problems than pilot problems. My first dream flier was a Streak, but these guys building the Clowns look like they're on to something good, and much simpler to build too. Might try that. It's amazing what they can do when you finally hit on the right combo.

That MA prop should have the numbers on the hub or the base of the blade. 0603 is a 6x3, etc. Those 5x4 duckies will really haul ass through the air, but they make excessively large loops with some planes. If you're right handed, hard back slapping starts a flooded engine easier. Go ahead and let it burn off the whole flood without feeding it and then start over.

I usually use 3/4 to 1oz with room for more. There should always be at least a bit of unused bladder behind the bubble. Filling it jammed full will give a bad needle setting after it relieves the false pressure of being over filled. Don't forget to train the bladders to fill the front end first, and pump a new one up with air, clip it and let it sit for a couple of minutes to get it all limbered up, then it will be more consistent. If it's in a container, make sure it isn't constricting the full bladder as that will also cause false pressure and a bad needle setting.

That's all I can think of for now.
Rusty

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Post  pkrankow Thu Aug 22, 2013 8:03 am

Maybe I am overfull...I will try a longer bladder sooner than later.

I also think I need a mesh bag of some type. Even though I have the bladder ends restrained it flops about considerably. I saved some produce bags for this purpose, but didn't

I want to get started on this baby flight streak because it is such a highly rated airframe. It's at least another week before I can start since I have to clean up the house from not cleaning while gutting and redoing the Jack and Jill bathrooms (touch up paint is all that is left there, they look awesome!)

The MA props are in labeled baggies from the store, I just didn't look at the labels. I don't really want to run them now because they break so easily. The grey cox props break easier though.

Phil
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Post  RknRusty Thu Aug 22, 2013 9:52 am

I leave my mesh bag holder open ended to help keep it from getting hung up while I fill it. Plus, if I want to pump more than an ounce in, the bladder can grow out of the back side. It's wide enough not to constrict the bladder. The string holds the bag tightly to the fuse. That ratty old bag in the picture is a year and a half old.

I just roll up a piece of the netting and stick it to some epoxy spread on a piece of paper, then cut it off when it's hardened. I "sew" a small zip tie around the neck to hold it in place on the filter inlet, but not too tightly. I used to put it under the wing for looks, but I'm over that. This gives better access and I can keep my thumb on the line against the fuse while I needle it, if it's ever necessary. Since when you fill, it passes through through the filter, let it have it a quick burst of back flow to flush it before hooking it back to the engine. My fuel line that I draw from the bottle into the syringe has a filter on it too.

After flying, I fill the bladder with alcohol and skoosh it in and out a few times with the syringe, then let the pressure shoot it all out. I fill it with air and let it blow out a couple of times too. Then I thump any remaining alky out, give it a shake for good luck and it'll be ready for your next day of flying. I also take the venturi off and clean out the sprinkler holes and orifices, usually with alky or brake parts cleaner. Since I already know how many turns the needle runs at, I just screw it back in, count the turns and she's ready for another day.

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Post  kevbo Thu Aug 22, 2013 10:52 pm

Cribbs74 wrote:Thanks Kev,

Good writeup. Burt Goldsmith from Albuquerque?

Ron
That's him.
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Post  Cribbs74 Sun Aug 25, 2013 10:06 pm

I met him while I was there last month. Great flier and all around good guy. I stole an APC prop from him by mistake. He sure can wring out some combat planes.
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Post  pkrankow Sun Aug 25, 2013 10:08 pm

I am sure tempted to order up some of those smaller/flatter APC props and see if they are what I need.

Phil
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Post  kevbo Mon Aug 26, 2013 6:57 am

APCI props have big holes, so you will need to come up with a bushing, not sure dimensions. I will presume to speak for Burt and say he won't miss a prop, but if you got off with one of his bushings he'd like it back.
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Post  Cribbs74 Mon Aug 26, 2013 9:55 am

Nah, the prop was a biggun (10x5) put it on my Fox .35

Ron
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Post  RknRusty Mon Aug 26, 2013 2:14 pm

Found this, something I never thought of. O-rings to hold the bladder to the front connection.
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Post  Cribbs74 Mon Aug 26, 2013 2:26 pm

Good idea, my concern is it slipping off of the NV.

What size o-ring?
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Post  RknRusty Mon Aug 26, 2013 3:01 pm

It doesn't go on the line at the NV end, just over the bladder where the insert like the TT cone is inserted. The OD of the bladder tube is 1/8", so in order to slip the o-ring over that, and then roll it up over the cone, I would guess an o-ring with about 5/32" ID.

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