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Cox Engine of The Month
July-2024
robot797's
"ULTIMITE COX 010: it has a clutch, E starter, throttle, exhaust, aluminum tank, aluminum venturi, gearbox with forward and reverse, and now its on a custom drawn and printed stand"
PAST WINNERS
robot797's
"ULTIMITE COX 010: it has a clutch, E starter, throttle, exhaust, aluminum tank, aluminum venturi, gearbox with forward and reverse, and now its on a custom drawn and printed stand"
PAST WINNERS
skis for Winter flying
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skis for Winter flying
Materials needed; .010" aluminum step flashing (x2 pcs. 6"L. x 3/4"W.) 2 popsicle sticks, 2 short lengths of sm. alloy tubing for axle tubes to fit your main gear axles, 2 sm. screw-eyes, double-stick foam tape and epoxy. Assembled weight per pr. is 8 gr.
Start by cutting (with scissors) the aluminum flashing to size, putting a radius on BOTH ends. For better "tracking" on soft snow; I chose to make "creases" in my skis using firm pressure with a scratch-awl/straight-edge, on alternate sides... I.E. "one" crease/ bottom-center and "two" creases on the top side, approx. 1/4" apart... FROM THE REAR FORWARD, approx. 5"... The remaining 1" of ski at the FRONT, will be "curled" slightly upward, for the tip.
The popsicle stick "beam" has an axle tube affixed with a blob of epoxy, slightly forward of the center. Drill a pilot hole at the REAR, approx. 3/8" from the end, and install the sm. screw eye. Cut x4 pcs. of foam tape to 3/8"W. x 3/4"L. and stick 2 pr. together to make 2 double thickness "pads"... (leave the protective liner on, until you're ready to stick the pads on the ski components, and clean areas where they will be applied, with an alcohol wipe) Stick one pad to the BOTTOM rear end of the beam and the same for the frt. The beam can now be mounted "on-center" to the ski.
This design provides some shock-absorbing action, and the "screw-eyes" are for attaching a string with a rubber-band looped around the planes tail-hook or tail-wheel bracket (or install a sm. notched dowel at the rear-bottom of the fuse. This keeps the skis from flopping around while flying.
Start by cutting (with scissors) the aluminum flashing to size, putting a radius on BOTH ends. For better "tracking" on soft snow; I chose to make "creases" in my skis using firm pressure with a scratch-awl/straight-edge, on alternate sides... I.E. "one" crease/ bottom-center and "two" creases on the top side, approx. 1/4" apart... FROM THE REAR FORWARD, approx. 5"... The remaining 1" of ski at the FRONT, will be "curled" slightly upward, for the tip.
The popsicle stick "beam" has an axle tube affixed with a blob of epoxy, slightly forward of the center. Drill a pilot hole at the REAR, approx. 3/8" from the end, and install the sm. screw eye. Cut x4 pcs. of foam tape to 3/8"W. x 3/4"L. and stick 2 pr. together to make 2 double thickness "pads"... (leave the protective liner on, until you're ready to stick the pads on the ski components, and clean areas where they will be applied, with an alcohol wipe) Stick one pad to the BOTTOM rear end of the beam and the same for the frt. The beam can now be mounted "on-center" to the ski.
This design provides some shock-absorbing action, and the "screw-eyes" are for attaching a string with a rubber-band looped around the planes tail-hook or tail-wheel bracket (or install a sm. notched dowel at the rear-bottom of the fuse. This keeps the skis from flopping around while flying.
Re: skis for Winter flying
I've wanted to put skies on something fo two or three years now. Maybe this is the year. Now watch, we won't get snow.
duke.johnson- Diamond Member
- Posts : 1734
Join date : 2012-11-05
Age : 52
Location : Rochester, Washington
Re: skis for Winter flying
Very well done Roddie! I like those a lot.
Cribbs74- Moderator
-
Posts : 11904
Join date : 2011-10-24
Age : 50
Location : Tuttle, OK
Re: skis for Winter flying
A forum member sent a pm requesting a pair of skis, in trade for something. I was surprised... I should mail them before winter gets here. They could also be used for flight testing on asphalt... but not grass. The tether-string holds their pitch angle so the skis act as "skids" on the ground... and won't "wind-mill" during flight.
The ski's will pitch slightly "downward" at the front tips. A pair of mine have a 9 sq. in. surface area. How this will affect flight, depends on a few things. The ski-angle in a "tail-dragger" configuration won't vary too much, with the tether attached to the tailskid/tail-wheel. The frt. "ski-tip" radius/profile will have an alternate aerodynamic effect, than the rest of the ski. This "may" cancel-out the need for any "up-elevator" trimming for level flight... having little more "drag" than a pr. of wheels would.
The ski's will pitch slightly "downward" at the front tips. A pair of mine have a 9 sq. in. surface area. How this will affect flight, depends on a few things. The ski-angle in a "tail-dragger" configuration won't vary too much, with the tether attached to the tailskid/tail-wheel. The frt. "ski-tip" radius/profile will have an alternate aerodynamic effect, than the rest of the ski. This "may" cancel-out the need for any "up-elevator" trimming for level flight... having little more "drag" than a pr. of wheels would.
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