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X-ACTO miter-box pads and stop-clamp
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X-ACTO miter-box pads and stop-clamp
I made some pads today on the CNC router from sheet PVC. My X-ACTO miter-box measures 1-3/4" between it's aluminum extrusion walls.. and is 5-1/2" long. I cut some "sacrificial" pads from 2mm thick stock. You could use any other sheet-stock that wouldn't "dull" your saw-blade.. but the thinner.. the better. The saw has a "shoulder" which holds the blade.. and this limits the depth of cut, when the saw is in the guide-slots. Depending on the thickness of the material that you're cutting; it's advantageous to have thin pads to "shim" the adequate depth that the saw cuts.. before it "bottoms-out" in the guide-slot.
The binder-clip is a handy "stop" for making repeat-length cuts.. or you could also use it in conjunction with a piece of small wood square-stock, for cutting delicate balsa sticks.. for example.
The binder-clip is a handy "stop" for making repeat-length cuts.. or you could also use it in conjunction with a piece of small wood square-stock, for cutting delicate balsa sticks.. for example.
Re: X-ACTO miter-box pads and stop-clamp
I probably should have gotten one of those miter boxes a long time ago. I could have saved a lot of elbow grease lately. Maybe a handle for my saw would be a good idea too.
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...and never Ever think about how good you are at something...
while you're doing it!
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RknRusty- Rest In Peace
- Posts : 10869
Join date : 2011-08-10
Age : 68
Location : South Carolina, USA
Re: X-ACTO miter-box pads and stop-clamp
RknRusty wrote:I probably should have gotten one of those miter boxes a long time ago. I could have saved a lot of elbow grease lately. Maybe a handle for my saw would be a good idea too.
You can easily make one from a similar piece of aluminum extrusion Rusty. I'd recommend one that's more narrow than 2" though. X-ACTO has a "lip" on the bottom of their's.. which butts up against a table edge, so it won't slide forward on "push" strokes" with the saw.. (which is the way the saw teeth are angled..) A narrower "box" would allow a longer stroke; especially on the 45 degree cuts, because the standard saw blade is only 4-1/2" long. This only gives you about one inch of stroke when cutting 45's.
You can remove and reverse the saw blade from it's frame using a pin-punch on the two "nibs" that crimp it together.. to obtain a cut on the "pull-stroke" if you want. Then just re-crimp the nibs with the same punch. This kinda' defeats the purpose of the "lip" on the box though.
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