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Cox Engine of The Month
September-2023
balogh's

"Beefed up old stock 290 on my Quickie100 RC after plenty of airtime hours..."

PAST WINNERS
balogh's

"Beefed up old stock 290 on my Quickie100 RC after plenty of airtime hours..."

PAST WINNERS
X-ACTO miter-box pads and stop-clamp
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X-ACTO miter-box pads and stop-clamp
I made some pads today on the CNC router from sheet PVC. My X-ACTO miter-box measures 1-3/4" between it's aluminum extrusion walls.. and is 5-1/2" long. I cut some "sacrificial" pads from 2mm thick stock. You could use any other sheet-stock that wouldn't "dull" your saw-blade.. but the thinner.. the better. The saw has a "shoulder" which holds the blade.. and this limits the depth of cut, when the saw is in the guide-slots. Depending on the thickness of the material that you're cutting; it's advantageous to have thin pads to "shim" the adequate depth that the saw cuts.. before it "bottoms-out" in the guide-slot.

The binder-clip is a handy "stop" for making repeat-length cuts.. or you could also use it in conjunction with a piece of small wood square-stock, for cutting delicate balsa sticks.. for example.

The binder-clip is a handy "stop" for making repeat-length cuts.. or you could also use it in conjunction with a piece of small wood square-stock, for cutting delicate balsa sticks.. for example.
Re: X-ACTO miter-box pads and stop-clamp
I probably should have gotten one of those miter boxes a long time ago. I could have saved a lot of elbow grease lately. Maybe a handle for my saw would be a good idea too.
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RknRusty- Rest In Peace
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Re: X-ACTO miter-box pads and stop-clamp
RknRusty wrote:I probably should have gotten one of those miter boxes a long time ago. I could have saved a lot of elbow grease lately. Maybe a handle for my saw would be a good idea too.
You can easily make one from a similar piece of aluminum extrusion Rusty. I'd recommend one that's more narrow than 2" though. X-ACTO has a "lip" on the bottom of their's.. which butts up against a table edge, so it won't slide forward on "push" strokes" with the saw.. (which is the way the saw teeth are angled..) A narrower "box" would allow a longer stroke; especially on the 45 degree cuts, because the standard saw blade is only 4-1/2" long. This only gives you about one inch of stroke when cutting 45's.


You can remove and reverse the saw blade from it's frame using a pin-punch on the two "nibs" that crimp it together.. to obtain a cut on the "pull-stroke" if you want. Then just re-crimp the nibs with the same punch. This kinda' defeats the purpose of the "lip" on the box though.
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