TD not really running....

WingingIt74 Thu Feb 16, 2012 9:00 pm

The TD I have, has me stumped. It ran good for 30 seconds and now I can't get it going again. I must not be doing something right. 4.5 turns on the needle. What level does the tank need to be at?

microflitedude Thu Feb 16, 2012 9:15 pm

Intake level. They flood easily.

WingingIt74 Thu Feb 16, 2012 9:17 pm

Should the tank be level or just below the intake?

**Cribbs74** Thu Feb 16, 2012 9:23 pm

WingingIt74 wrote:The TD I have, has me stumped. It ran good for 30 seconds and now I can't get it going again. I must not be doing something right. 4.5 turns on the needle. What level does the tank need to be at?

It can be at any level but as micro said level with the NV is best. If going above carb level then don't go 4.5 go like one turn then when it pops go another half turn till it pops again keep doing that at half turn or so increments till it runs. Chances are once it starts you will have to go out as opposed to in with the NV to achieve best RPM. It kinda starts lean and you richen it to increase RPM.

That way it never floods.

**RknRusty** Thu Feb 16, 2012 9:42 pm

Here's a movie of me starting a flooded Medallion. The fuel supply was 1/2" higher than the venturi. I notice it flooding at about 3:50 when I begin cranking. The first part of the video is about making a fuel supply.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VMPlgF81fgc&feature=g-upl&context=G2f7a5f7AUAAAAAAAEAA

Since then I've learned how not to flood it.

nitroairplane Fri Feb 17, 2012 3:10 am

What TD is it?

Surfer_kris Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:25 am

The holes in the spray bar i.e. the ring are really small and might be blocked. Take it apart, clean it and poke a thin wire through each of the holes.

Kim Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:38 am

Surfer_kris wrote:The holes in the spray bar i.e. the ring are really small and might be blocked. Take it apart, clean it and poke a thin wire through each of the holes.

Yeah, that thirty seconds of running might have been just enough to shake some crap loose inside the ring and plug the holes. I like to flush them with my fuel bulb...take the NV out, slide the tubing on that end, block the intake fitting, and let'r rip to see if it's coming out the little holes....and also let some shoot out of the intake fitting. Might even put a little heat to it first.

dirk gently Fri Feb 17, 2012 6:21 am

Surfer_kris wrote:The holes in the spray bar i.e. the ring are really small and might be blocked. Take it apart, clean it and poke a thin wire through each of the holes.

Do you really want to poke a wire through there? I recall repairing my moped's carburetor, I was using a piece of plastic string to clean the vents. I was afraid metal wire would make a mark on the delicate part.

nitroairplane Fri Feb 17, 2012 6:38 am

dirk gently wrote:
Surfer_kris wrote:The holes in the spray bar i.e. the ring are really small and might be blocked. Take it apart, clean it and poke a thin wire through each of the holes.

Do you really want to poke a wire through there? I recall repairing my moped's carburetor, I was using a piece of plastic string to clean the vents. I was afraid metal wire would make a mark on the delicate part.

Yes it is fine and I think what the cox instructions say.
Indra

WingingIt74 Fri Feb 17, 2012 7:24 am

it's an 051

Surfer_kris Fri Feb 17, 2012 7:59 am

dirk gently wrote:
Do you really want to poke a wire through there? I recall repairing my moped's carburetor, I was using a piece of plastic string to clean the vents. I was afraid metal wire would make a mark on the delicate part.

Use a soft copper wire...

WingingIt74 Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:02 am

I've got fuel coming through the spray bar. Would a crack in the threads on the intake give it problems? I've got a new one ordered. Not quite sure how to take it apart yet....

Ivanhoe Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:05 am

WingingIt74 wrote:The TD I have, has me stumped. It ran good for 30 seconds and now I can't get it going again. I must not be doing something right. 4.5 turns on the needle. What level does the tank need to be at?

I have a couple of engines (not Cox) that do that, never have managed to sort it out and find out why.

Kim Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:28 am

WingingIt74 wrote:I've got fuel coming through the spray bar. Would a crack in the threads on the intake give it problems? I've got a new one ordered. Not quite sure how to take it apart yet....

Yeah...it would mess with you...but not sure that it would do this. The B.O.T.'s .051 started getting hateful about NV settings, and I found the plastic to be cracked at that spot. Replaced it with an aluminum version, and we were suddenly buddies again !

**Cribbs74** Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:38 am

WingingIt74 wrote:I've got fuel coming through the spray bar. Would a crack in the threads on the intake give it problems? I've got a new one ordered. Not quite sure how to take it apart yet....

Dissassembly is very similar to the reedies with the exception of the carb body lock collar. With a TD you get to use almost all the cutouts on the Cox standard tools.

Head/cylinder/crank removal is the same as the reedies.

If you have a crack in the carb body, just drop some CA on it until your new one arrives. CA will not last forever but, long enough for a few runs.

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