Re: So, slightly bent, broken and abused French Spad is coming home

GallopingGhostler Mon Jan 15, 2024 11:04 am

Bob, not long ago, Aero-werkes out of Farmington, NM advertised a kit closeout sale of that very kit, price under $50, which was very reasonable. Looks seemed similar. (He sold them all, no longer shown.) Also, I remember AHC, NYC had Enterprise kits for sale in the 1960's. The mounting of the Pee Wee inverted was common practice in the 1950's to early 1960's, Walt Musciano's Scientific half-A CL kits showed a good number of kit box cover photos with the OK Cub's and Cox tank engines with the cylinder inverted.

Builders then weren't intimidated by an inverted engine and knew how to successfully start them. (I never did inverted because it was just as easy to make the engine a sidewinder (horizontal cylinder) and have the cylinder sticking out in the wind, giving a clean inner side view profile.

The early 1950's kits used more or less the less expensive, common OK Cubs, which powerwise, the .049's and others same displacement had about the power of the Pee Wee.

Plus, with the kit you got as a bonus, a very clean earlier thin cylinder .020 without tank heavily marred with screw and screwdriver scared tank with the anodizing scratched off in those areas.

And speaking of an alternative to Harbor Freight, found there is a Northern Tool in Lubbock, 95 miles away. So, now I have an alternative. Very Happy

rsv1cox Mon Jan 15, 2024 2:35 pm

Ah, options.

While looking over my scrap balsa I found a 4" SIG airfoil that cut to shape and sanded down would duplicate very closely the original top wing although at a weight penality. Doesn't really concern me, I think a nicely tuned Pee Wee would still haul it around smartly. The wings are top sheeted balsa anyway. The bottom wing I will still do sheet and tissue but only half saving the original half....Maybe.

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It will go back together using CA, maybe backing up critical areas with epoxy. No way could I strip and repaint. Structure would not support it. Blend in camo as best can.

rsv1cox Tue Jan 16, 2024 2:49 pm

I was getting ready to build a sheet and tissue replacement lower wing for the Spad when I thought to check my scrap balsa for something more user friendly. Found a short length of SIG airfoil that if cut to size and sanded would work perfectly. Reminding myself that I'm not building a contest model here but rebuilding a $4.95/$12.00 crashed piece of junk.

Not worth the effort some would say, but for me it's the effort that makes it worthwhile.

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3" sections of music wire will substitute for the nails. 1" into the wing, rest extending into the fuselage set in 30 mim epoxy.

rsv1cox Wed Jan 17, 2024 9:16 am

I decided to use toothpicks instead of music wire. Lighter and effectively just as strong. Thicker toothpicks fill the voids better requiring less cement.

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Still, sanding to do to get the contours right.

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Top wing is wider and longer than the bottom. Bottom wing on this model measures at 13 1/2" and 1 1/2" wide, I will cut the top wing at 14 or 14 1/8"" and 1 3/4" =/-

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Levent Suberk Wed Jan 17, 2024 9:37 am

Good ideas and good work Bob. Very Happy

rdw777 Wed Jan 17, 2024 10:40 am

The little plane is coming back to life again, nice Very Happy

….. You may have already said, But are you going try and match and patch in the new paint?… That would be it’s own fun little trail to follow….

rsv1cox Wed Jan 17, 2024 3:42 pm

rdw777 wrote:The little plane is coming back to life again, nice ….. You may have already said, But are you going try and match and patch in the new paint?… That would be it’s own fun little trail to follow….

I have options Robert, none of which are very close.

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I cut the wing scallops (PO never did) using a half-round file. A Spad isn't a Spad without them. Original wing quite difficult as the trailing edge appears to be mahogany rather than balsa. Big mistake on the pilots high wing visability cut-out. Appears to be quite expansive on the Guillows plans, so that's the way I cut it. Glued it back together and will try again with a smaller referance.

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Scallops get cleaned-up a bit after a couple coats of sanding sealer to add some strength.

rsv1cox Thu Jan 18, 2024 10:00 am

Re-did the wing opening for the pilot, and first and second coats of sanding sealer. This stuff will mend a broken arm. Built a new engine out of the .020 parts I got on ebay. New gaskets and a better tank and case.

Dug the old venturi gasket out with a pin, brittle it broke in pieces. New case gasket. Cleaned the carbon buildup off the top of the piston and cleaned the cylinder. Glow head looks bad but reads good. Leaving it.

Found an old lead-in and cut it to length. Debated about replacing both leads with new. Gave up on that I would have destroyed the existing set-up getting it out.

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rdw777 Thu Jan 18, 2024 12:20 pm

Nice that you’re adding the scallops into the wing…. Very much a part of the Spad’s character!!….. Also good that the “hat in the ring” decal was saved, Add’s
interest Thumbs Up

….. Surf Skimmer in the background of one of the above pix looks close to scale with the Spad Very Happy

…. The part of the plane that was not damaged looks to be made well by the original builder…. I know they would be proud that it is being restored…

rsv1cox Thu Jan 18, 2024 1:47 pm

Thanks Robert, The Surf Skimmer and the Cox TD-4 still lurk. Both fairly easy completions compared to this Spad.

I also wonder about the Spad's builder. Probably not a kid. He/she gets points for building and flying. I wish the engine had come with it. One flight or many? Last flight landed upside down left side. Took out the top and left wing but kept the landing gear. Wonder when? Late fifties/sixties.

Scallops cleaning up/defining with sanding sealer and hole punches. I was not happy with the 1/2 round file. Thought about the punches with the rough cylinders, picked the one that fit best and acted like a file. Any port in a storm!

Love doing this stuff.

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akjgardner Thu Jan 18, 2024 2:22 pm

Looking good Bob , I see the can of sanding sealer, I’m having a heck of a time finding that . I’ve been to several hardware stores with no luck

akjgardner Thu Jan 18, 2024 2:44 pm

GallopingGhostler wrote:Bob, not long ago, Aero-werkes out of Farmington, NM advertised a kit closeout sale of that very kit, price under $50, which was very reasonable. Looks seemed similar. (He sold them all, no longer shown.) Also, I remember AHC, NYC had Enterprise kits for sale in the 1960's. The mounting of the Pee Wee inverted was common practice in the 1950's to early 1960's, Walt Musciano's Scientific half-A CL kits showed a good number of kit box cover photos with the OK Cub's and Cox tank engines with the cylinder inverted.

Builders then weren't intimidated by an inverted engine and knew how to successfully start them. (I never did inverted because it was just as easy to make the engine a sidewinder (horizontal cylinder) and have the cylinder sticking out in the wind, giving a clean inner side view profile.

The early 1950's kits used more or less the less expensive, common OK Cubs, which powerwise, the .049's and others same displacement had about the power of the Pee Wee.

Plus, with the kit you got as a bonus, a very clean earlier thin cylinder .020 without tank heavily marred with screw and screwdriver scared tank with the anodizing scratched off in those areas.

And speaking of an alternative to Harbor Freight, found there is a Northern Tool in Lubbock, 95 miles away. So, now I have an alternative.

Hey George, I was the Lucky one that jumped on three of those kits , all the ones I got were NIB. with the cellophane still on them . Yay me lol

rsv1cox Thu Jan 18, 2024 3:18 pm

Hi Joe, yes lucky you. Can you post a picture of the plans if you have broken into one, or just the box if you haven't.

You can find that sanding sealer in most Walmarts. Thanks - Bob

akjgardner Thu Jan 18, 2024 5:18 pm

rsv1cox wrote:Hi Joe, yes lucky you. Can you post a picture of the plans if you have broken into one, or just the box if you haven't.

You can find that sanding sealer in most Walmarts. Thanks - Bob

sure can

rsv1cox Fri Jan 19, 2024 2:42 pm

This thing just snaps back together. Each broken piece fits back perfectly including the firewall. The only piece that I have cemented (CA) so far is the left side with the opening for the forward lead-out. When I do cement it, clamps will ensure a tighter fit.

The manufacturer made no provisions to access the engine. Once the cowl is cemented in place, that's it. So, I made sure this engine will be a runner. New gaskets and a nice reed along with careful cleaning should ensure that. I used my new 2/56's. 1/4" snugged in place and dotted with wood glue. Tried gel CA which was a diaster, it still weeped into the threads. Had to remove everything. No washers, I wanted the nut's to imprint.

Painted the underside of the new wings with Krylon light gray to match the original. Got to lay some beige, then over-paint with green. There will be scars. Trying to cover them makes it look like you're trying too hard.

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rdw777 Fri Jan 19, 2024 5:55 pm

It’s going to look great Bob, A little TLC around the re-joined broken parts and paint touch up will only make it look like a veteran back from the front lines….. Like you have already mentioned, I’m surprised the landing gear did not tear off in the crash…. More evidence it was well built to begin with…I’m guessing an older teenager with a little experience already or young adult…..

akjgardner Sat Jan 20, 2024 3:40 am

rsv1cox wrote:Hi Joe, yes lucky you. Can you post a picture of the plans if you have broken into one, or just the box if you haven't.

You can find that sanding sealer in most Walmarts. Thanks - Bob

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here you go Bob . Aero-works has this kit for $18 . Very nice laser cut kit

rsv1cox Sat Jan 20, 2024 7:44 am

Thanks Joe, got it. I did a search on the Aero-Works Spad and could not find it. Do you have a link? Bob

getback Sat Jan 20, 2024 7:55 am

Oh Man it looking Good ! That's great that the broken parts are fitting back together , makes for easier fix . I see your putting the tail pipes back on too . your getting good at the scallops they look even . Clean my glasses

akjgardner Sat Jan 20, 2024 8:04 am

rsv1cox wrote:Thanks Joe, got it. I did a search on the Aero-Works Spad and could not find it. Do you have a link? Bob

Sorry Bob , it’s Aerowerks with an E . Type in Aerowerks models . I’m going out today , if I find a place to copy the plans , I will make you a set of them .

rsv1cox Sat Jan 20, 2024 8:32 am

akjgardner wrote:
rsv1cox wrote:Thanks Joe, got it. I did a search on the Aero-Works Spad and could not find it. Do you have a link? Bob
Sorry Bob , it’s Aerowerks with an E . Type in Aerowerks models . I’m going out today , if I find a place to copy the plans , I will make you a set of them .

Thanks Joe, Plans are not necessary, I have all that I need now. I appreciate the offer.

Bob

akjgardner Sun Jan 21, 2024 6:08 am

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Bob, here is the decal sheet

rsv1cox Sun Jan 21, 2024 7:51 am

Thanks Joe, I can scale it and print them out on sticky backed paper.

Bob

rsv1cox Mon Jan 22, 2024 8:24 am

Paint. Back to the drawing board.

What I thought would be passable, isn't! I must have at least 30 cans of aerosal paints, Krylon mostly and I do not want to buy more, but there it is. The John Deere Green is close, but it's gloss and it reacted with the base coat and crazed. Strip it and try again. Thankfully I did not do the top wing. Camo tan and green should do better. Another Walmart run but it ain't ever going to match exactly. Sad

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When I cemented in the motor mount back to the PO's original positioning (It just snapped into place) I checked east west but neglected north south. Big mistake. Way off, took 4/40 nut shims to bring it back into alignment. No wonder it did a figure 9 and landed on it's back. Screwdriver tool marks are not mine.

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Simple jig for setting up/cementing the wing when I get around to it. Might be some head shaking going on around the table, but I bet when I finish it will fly successfully.

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rdw777 Mon Jan 22, 2024 11:50 am

Bob, I’m sure you have method you are after for painting…. But just thinking out loud…. And maybe not even appropriate… Maybe craft store or WM water based art paints?…. Cheap and could be mixed or matched to come close to your base…. A coat of varnish over to seal…. Varnish is fairly fuel proof according to my test stand…..Varnish will have a sheen but could be be “flattened” with fine sandpaper afterwards…..Varnish will yellow a bit with age but maybe not a bad thing on an
antique-ish plane…..Just a thought ….

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