cloth hinges

I like sewn hinges.

hey rusty what are you using for sewing material??would dacron line work??

3 options.

Robarts 1/2A hinge pins
CA hinges aka SIG easy hinges
Dubro pin hinges

All three if done properly are undectable. I have used easy hinges and pin hinges in the past, but don't have experience with the Robarts

Here are some examples from my earlier post.

CA Hinge:


Dubro pin hinge:


Examples of both uninstalled:


Robarts


The dubro and CA work well. Even hold up upon impact, and I have had some dandies.......

Ron

thanks for the input,cribbs74 i really apperciate the photos a1

Those CA hinges look good, as in you can't see them.
The hinges in my picture are dacron flying line; three over/under passes through pre-punched holes and a strip of Monokote on each side for integrity. Tied off on the underside(stab side) with a dot of white glue on the tip of the tag end and a dot in each hole to seal it.

That was on a 1/2A plane. Here's a different stitch on a big plane, also dacron:


Ken Cook taught me what I know about sewing hinges. He has many more examples of ways to do it.

Yeah when done properly the sewn hinges look good and work well. I just don't have the patience.

It's just a matter of preference really. I will say CA hinges are stiffer until you break them in. I just like the cleaner look of them. On the big planes I am sold on the dubro pin hinges. They disappear and the are very fluid.

Ron

man i seem to learn something new almost every other day or so!!!!!!!!!!!

yep, i do like the CA hinges, but will cut them down for 1/2a...actually a little shorter than shown in photo.

Good point Mark,

I forgot to mention that.

I've used many types of hinge material that's been offered commercially. One product that worked far superior to any of them was Sig Koverall. This material is a polyester which is so flexible, I've used it on .010 models and wouldn't use any other product. Even when coated with multiple coats of dope it allows the elevator to fall on it's own weight. Much more durable than the traditional and also heavier cloth materials that are cut with pinking shears. The material is so thin that when used in conjunction with Duco or Testor's fast dry it almost blends in with the remainder of the work. Sig Koverall in my opinion is almost identical to Polyspan. These products are also identical to dress lining material. Just don't let the wife catch you cutting up the dress. I've never tried it directly from a fabric store, I've seen it offered in low qualities there. The only real problem I encountered was cutting it without fraying. This takes a new blade and I usually sandwich it between two pieces of paper when I do cut it. Ken

For limp hinges sewn really is best.

Cloth works OK, but the looks isn't there. You can use ripstop nylon in a very light weight and with a release material press them down to get a good finish when you glue, but the effort for the gain...

Those CA hinges really do work a treat, although I have yet to try them on a 1/2a elevator.

Phil

I've been pleased with the "stitcthed (sewn)hinges" ala Rusty that I've tried so far useing a clear material from my trout fly tying stuff.

I use a "figure 8" stitch rather that a loop shown in Rusty's picture. The "figure 8" keeps the horizontal stabilzer and the elevator in closer alignment.

SD

SuperDave wrote:I've been pleased with the "stitcthed (sewn)hinges" ala Rusty that I've tried so far useing a clear material from my trout fly tying stuff.

I use a "figure 8" stitch rather that a loop shown in Rusty's picture. The "figure 8" keeps the horizontal stabilzer and the elevator in closer alignment.

SD

Click on my picture to get the full size and look closer, mine is not a loop. As I said above, it's an over/under("figure 8") stitch. A loop would be stiff.

I am still using cloth hinging and found this post , but my main question at this point would be is it OK to use titebond glue for this app. I use to use epoxy till I started using this white glue ?? I never used this kind of glue in any application on an airplane till I heard others were, just on a need to know sence I have done this and made an error and had to remove the cloth and it was not that hard to get off    (this is a build with no dope added to the wood) Getback   

I've used Elmer's wood glue for cloth hinges just fine. The hard part is keeping them pressed tight while the glue dries, or the edges curl up.

Phil

My favorite glue for cloth hinges or similar synthetic is Testor's fast dry. It also doesn't come through orange in color like Ambroid does. http://www.testors.com/product/137221/3503X/_/Extra_Fast-drying_Wood_Cement It sets within seconds and is easily sanded if need be. Ken

Hot fuel proof too 1 I have not seen this glue around here , I will ck. it out ...How about the longer set time as in Sig-me cement ? Thanks for the input. Getback

Ken Cook wrote:       My favorite glue for cloth hinges or similar synthetic is Testor's fast dry. It also doesn't come through orange in color like Ambroid does. http://www.testors.com/product/137221/3503X/_/Extra_Fast-drying_Wood_Cement    It sets within seconds and is easily sanded if need be. Ken

hobby lobby the craft store has it

Phil

If I were to use cloth hinges, I'd use the testors in the tube with the green label. I used to do it all the time before I started caring about appearance. On my Reed Speed plane I laminated a piece of dress liner material between two pieces of balsa with Testors. It makes a full length single hinge with no air gap. Just make sure you space the stab and elevator sufficiently for free movement.
Rusty

EDIT: I just clicked Ken's link.
http://www.testors.com/product/137221/3503X/_/Extra_Fast-drying_Wood_Cement
That looks better. My green label glue says for wood and... something, I forgot. But his brown label says specifically wood . They don't have that at my Hobby Lobby. I didn't know about it.

This is what I've been using. Next best, I suppose:
http://www.testors.com/product/137221/3505X/_/Cement_for_Metal_and_Wood