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Cox Engine of The Month
February-2024
1/2A Nut's

"RC Speed Boat Power Drive TD .020"

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Post  Dstradt Sun Oct 01, 2017 3:49 pm

Hi, I have this stand I made myself, it has been sanded, sealed, and has been covored with a thick coat of lacquer to make it hot fuel proof. My only issue now is that I cannot figure out how to mount my cox .49 and .20. I want to be able to remove the engines often and be able to put them back on. So I would not want to drill one hole because after a few uses the wood will get boared out. Any ideas?

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Post  Marleysky Sun Oct 01, 2017 4:29 pm

Here's a 5 second recap of the last 30 minutes of my typing and loosing all of it cause I touched the wrong button.  

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD966&P=7

Later that evening:

Thanks guys, for the reminder to "save" my work. I should know better.
Anyway my response was to use Brass Threaded inserts where each engine mounting hole would be. Than I found those steel blind nuts, which could be installed from the rear of the motor mount, and would not strip out like bare wood would after repeated used.
If you are only going to use the stand for 049 and 020 tank mounted motors you would only need to drill eight holes, seal with epoxy or CA and use the blind nuts.


Last edited by Marleysky on Sun Oct 01, 2017 10:17 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Recap lost response.)
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Post  Admin Sun Oct 01, 2017 5:31 pm

Marleysky wrote:Here's a 5 second recap of the last 30 minutes of my typing and loosing all of it cause I touched the wrong button.  

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD966&P=7

If you're going to type something big, do it in a word processor or highlight and copy your text every so often.

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Post  NEW222 Sun Oct 01, 2017 5:54 pm

Marleysky wrote:Here's a 5 second recap of the last 30 minutes of my typing and loosing all of it cause I touched the wrong button.  

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD966&P=7

Well, at least I am not the only one with this problem.... Rolling Eyes But after a few times, I do as stated above. Copy teh text every so often if it is a lengthy message.
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Post  Kim Sun Oct 01, 2017 6:45 pm

Testify Brother.....
..........................Lost to the Ether Kim
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Post  roddie Sun Oct 01, 2017 8:17 pm

There's a couple of different ways to approach this. It's best to have dedicated mounts for each engine size and type. Some engines mount "radially" to a firewall.. and some mount on "beams".

Let's say that you have Cox "reed-valve" engines with integral fuel-tanks. The "Bee"/.049's mounting-pattern is slightly larger than the "Pee Wee" .020's. I would personally make separate mounts. You can choose to mount the engines with machine-screws with captive "blind-nuts" installed behind the firewall to accept them. This would be a good method.. and would handle "repeated" mountings and dis-mountings.

Using small wood-screws is also an option.. but as you mentioned; they will strip-out with repeated mountings/dis-mountings. You can extend the service-life of the mount by sticking wooden toothpicks (cut-short) in the mounting-holes with a drop of super-glue. This will give the wood-screws "new-wood" to bite-into. I've done this with small (1/2A size) airplanes having a radial firewall.. and it holds the engine tight.
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Post  Kim Mon Oct 02, 2017 5:09 am

Not sure how thick the main board is, but you can get 2-56 blind nuts and long 2-56 machine screws from Micro Fasteners.

https://www.microfasteners.com/

You might also a square of hardwood on each side of the vertical support to take some long #2 socket head wood screws, also sold by Micro Fasteners. I use blocks of hardwood---got them for free from a local cabinet shop---with the test stands that Matt and Bernie offer, and have yet to wear out any.

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Post  KariFS Mon Oct 02, 2017 8:39 am

Maybe you could mount a "sacrificial" strip of wood on the front surface, and replace it when it wears out and/or gets soaked? It would be the most flexible solution, you could install engine mounts with different patterns and would not need to worry about extra holes.

Something like this:

Cox Engine Test Stand Mootto10

If you are going to run only 2-3 different engines on the mount, then it might be easiest to use blind nuts as Marleysky suggests.
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