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Post  Cribbs74 on Tue Nov 27, 2018 3:14 pm

Fine examples. The conical driveplates actually work pretty good. Commonly found on Super Tigres as well. It’s a press fit so once the prop is tight it won’t move. Same theory as ball joints and tie rod ends on a car.

Not really a McCoy fan, but that .60 looks like a quality built piece. It’s pretty to look at too.
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Post  Ken Cook on Tue Nov 27, 2018 4:37 pm

I can say from experience that if you ever want to convert fuel back into castor oil, the slobbery Mccoy is the way to do it. It's a neat engine but it uses fuel at a incredible rate.
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Post  crankbndr on Tue Nov 27, 2018 5:41 pm

Ill call it the snot rocket, I have never run one it must really bark. lol!
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Post  ticomareado on Tue Nov 27, 2018 5:50 pm

I remember seeing monoline speed planes run their practice paces with these engines as a kid in the mid-sixties. I, like most other spectators took cover behind a car parked near the circle to observe. (ditto for Dynajets) My guess is that one of these well worked and tuned would probably still be somewhat competitive today.
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Post  ffkiwi on Tue Nov 27, 2018 8:57 pm

crankbndr wrote:
Surfer_kris wrote:
crankbndr wrote:
This one is called a VT-11 and unfortunately is missing its needle valve. Its appears to be new, the anodizing is very nice.
Any other info would be welcome.

The VT-08 engines (1cc diesels) were quite common around here in the past and I have two of them, but I have never seen the VT-11 in the "flesh".

I have a swedish manual for the VT-08 and it provides a running in procedure, written in rather old and strange swedish from the 1950-ties:
"Run the engine for a maximum of 50-60 seconds continuously, then leave to cool down to room temperature. The running in period is about 20-30 minutes."

So that is more than 20 starts before it is ready to fly... (!)

There is also a strange, old-school, fuel blend recommendation:
40% ether
20% castor oil
20% Kerosene
20% Petroleum

I have run mine on a more modern fuel mix, 35% ether, 25% all castor and 1.5% DII, the rest kerosene. Works fine as the DII helps to reduce the compression setting. Smile




Thank you, I read the needle is 1mm wire. Any idea of thread?

Well being Hungarian in origin, the thread will certainly be metric. The question will be whether the thread was cut or rolled on-like R/C pushrods where the thread is larger diameter (slightly) than the wire it is formed from. If the 1mm size is correct-there is a 1x0.25mm metric thread ...amnd a 1.2x0.25mm thread both of which seem reasonable candidates. Try fitting a piece of .039 music wire into the threaded end of the spraybar-if it is a snug fit-that would indicate a 1mm thread, if it is noticeably looser-a 1.2mm.

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Post  crankbndr on Wed Nov 28, 2018 9:08 pm

Thanks for the NV info I’ll look in it.
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Post  ffkiwi on Wed Nov 28, 2018 9:42 pm

crankbndr wrote:Thanks for the NV info I’ll look in it.

I have a mate here in NZ who lives local to me who has one-I'll pay him a visit and try and measure his needle up for you.

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Ronnie's engines - Page 3 Empty Holland Hornet II .049 NIB

Post  crankbndr on Sat Dec 01, 2018 2:29 pm

One nice looking .049, don't know much about them.

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Post  ticomareado on Sat Dec 01, 2018 3:35 pm

Flick my envy trigger dude!
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Post  Cribbs74 on Sat Dec 01, 2018 4:38 pm

That’s a nice Hornet. I think they look the best with a blue drive plate and red spinner. Funny thing is the anodizing was all over the place. Some were plain like yours and others had the blue and red. I have one with a blue drive plate. It came without a spinner, so I bought one from Mecoa. It’s just plain aluminum. I should try and dye it.

I have run mine, because it was already used, but I hear the rods like to seperate when really wound up.

Popular FF engine, it’s a little on the heavy side with the steel case. Yours has the clamp bar on the backplate which is rare in and of itself. Can you take some pics of the tools and decals from the box?

I see yours has the II under the .049 casting. That means it’s a little later. Mine is an early version without that casting. I can provide a photo, but I am willing to bet I have posted it on here before.

Ron
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Post  crankbndr on Sat Dec 01, 2018 7:36 pm

I just tried to remove the insert without tearing it up and could not. Ill try again. i thought the blue color was on the .051s, Mark would know a lot about these engines.
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Post  Ken Cook on Sat Dec 01, 2018 10:58 pm

Plugs for the Holland Hornet can be difficult to source.
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Post  ffkiwi on Mon Dec 03, 2018 2:55 am

Ken Cook wrote:         Plugs for the Holland Hornet can be difficult to source.

Doug Galbreath does an adaptor head for the Nelson plug-all of my Hornets are so equipped-I keep the few original heads I have for when the engines are displayed, but for actual running I use his adaptor heads. Worth an email to him to ascertain current availability....hell will have frozen over and thawed several times before Mecoa seemingly will do anything about producing repro original type Hornet heads....

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Post  crankbndr on Sat Dec 15, 2018 8:07 am

The early Howler engines didn't mix air, fuel in a venturi. They used SPI for the air, I guess it didn't work well because they quickly added an air hole. This one is missing NV.

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