MY Karma always needs enhancing

fredvon4 Thu Jan 17, 2019 11:46 am

Way back when I started lots of folks gifted me all sorts of Hobby stuff...kits, engines, starter box some well used hand me downs and some new in box stiff...all they said when I was grateful and wanted to pay ...was Fred "Pay IT Forward" some day

Over time I have accumulated way too much stuff to ever use..some I am selling am some I am gifting

If I send you a thing be assured I would like you to run and play with it...there is nothing especially special about a Cox TeeDee .051 except the Cylinders and Pistons are scarce...but they exist

The engine I sent is one of 12 TeeDees I had that I frankenCoxed...In other words I had a spare .051 set

I sent timing shims and a good head and three head gaskets

I knew you see this as special to you new found Cox engine love but trust me there are over 10,000 Cox Medallion and Teedees all over Australia

I seem to recall a fellow Aussi near you, has invited you to come play engine smoke n noise--- so take that engine too and first learn how to prime and start it with a hard tank before you dive into learning the start sequence with a pressure bladder

With a bladder you have the pressure pinched off and get the engine to start off PRIME and before the engine burns off all the prime fuel you release the pressure so the engine stays running...once that sequence is learned it is never forgotten...but the first attempts will almost always yield a flooded engine and that get real frustrating real fast

Any way YOUNG Man you will honor me greatly if you first play with it and make it scream as it is supposed to...

MBT85 Thu Jan 17, 2019 3:30 pm

Thank you Fred,
You have no idea what this means to me!! I’m so unbelievably appreciative!!!

I know I’ve been invited to Rods place but I don’t have a drivers license and he live quite a ways away from me. If I could I’d go but at the moment I can’t.
I am supposed to be getting my license back soon, I did silly things over 2 years ago like drink driving and got caught. But I stopped drinking over 19 months ago now.

Anyway that’s another story. I’ve learnt and grown up since.

I will get this engine going along with my others to see how it screams!!
I want to build a C/L plane but I’m to scared to put one of these golden nuggets onto a pt-19 made out of corrugated plastic. I think I’m going to buy one from wood or something. I know the PT-19 is a trainer but I don’t like that idea. And i know you said there’s ALOT of engines here in Australia but they’re not advertised anywhere near as much as US products are.

1/2A Nut- I’m sorry for annoying you, I do apologise, I have done searches and come up with nothing. So I thought being a ‘Cox’ forum I’d be able to ask questions I had here. Sorry that is inappropriate. There’s no reason to bro angry at me though. I’ve never played with nitro engines of any size so when it come so to delicate pieces like these id like to know instead of say just push the needle straight in instead of ask and then find out it screws in. Anyway, I do apologise for getting on your nerves.

**Cribbs74** Thu Jan 17, 2019 3:54 pm

I can’t speak for 1/2A Nut, but I doubt he was irritated with you. He was probably just letting you know that the search engine is there to answer most questions.

You can do an inside search or a google to broaden the search. Sometimes you have to be creative in your search heading so you can capture more data.

Failing that, don’t be afraid to ask. There are probably many people on here that reply to repetitive topics.

There are many sources for 1/2A balsa kits to build a simple plane to learn fly with. These Golden Nuggets are rugged and can take some abuse. Collecting is good and flying is good, you can do both.

Ron

MBT85 Thu Jan 17, 2019 7:47 pm

I’ve just purchased these parts in the picture.
I ended up buying a red aluminium carb body instead of plastic, I feel it will be more durable. And I like the look of it better than the plastic parts.

Hopefully it won’t take too long to show up at my door.

Fredvon4 sent me a tee dee and I didn’t know!? - Page 2 C01a4410

How do I remove the gold prop retaining screw in the front? Thanks in advance for any help!!

1/2A Nut Thu Jan 17, 2019 8:17 pm

1/2A Nut wrote:Yes the needle goes through as shown. The black plastic
is a good fit to the NV you may add a dab of oil before screwing it in.:

Yes Ron / Cribbs is correct, my 4 posts where important to spell out the answers and lead you to products.
I have not responded since because I have been away from my desk top computer at work making a living
so I can hang out here on my free time. It's 8:16 pm here in Texas at the time of this post. Cool

MBT85 Thu Jan 17, 2019 8:19 pm

Thank you for your help
Sorry if I annoyed you

1/2A Nut Thu Jan 17, 2019 8:21 pm

You did not annoy me nothing to apologize about, happy to help.
I was working aka stopped responding because I left home to work.

Beer Cheers

MBT85 Thu Jan 17, 2019 8:23 pm

Ok no problems,
Thank you again for the help and links.

NEW222 Thu Jan 17, 2019 9:40 pm

To remove the front gold anodized driver, you would use the tool given to you by Fred and put the pin of the cutout that is on the left side (as sitting in your first picture on page 1 of this topic) into the notch of the aluminum collar in front of the carburetor body. Use the tool as a wrench and undo the collar slowly and carefully and it will press the thrust washer off of the crankshaft.

NEW222 Thu Jan 17, 2019 9:44 pm

Ok. I just ran out and snapped a couple of quick pictures so hope this helps. The tool you have is slightly different, but still the same. Your cutout is right behind the glowhead part of the wrench.

Fredvon4 sent me a tee dee and I didn’t know!? - Page 2 R110

Fredvon4 sent me a tee dee and I didn’t know!? - Page 2 R210

getback Fri Jan 18, 2019 8:57 am

That will work but i believe being a newbie to engines and never have used the wrench before >> I would say driving it out with the prop screw will be better for Matt , and not have that possibility of messing up the collet . With that thought and not having the parts yet give me a few and i will show you a better way Smile

Sorry Chancey not meaning to step on anybody's toes here just my thoughts /// So just hold onto your horses Horsing Around

fredvon4 Fri Jan 18, 2019 10:45 am

How about we recommend that there is no reason to remove the drive plate

This engine is made from ALL NEW old stock parts including the Matt sourced crank case

I shipped it dry...never seen fuel OR ARO

No need to put on that nice expensive and pretty aluminum carb body until the time years from now when the plastic Cox part eventually cracks and becomes un serviceable

Now I gave it freely and it is NOW YOUR TOY so play as you see fit and enjoy

I would recommend taking any typical older Bee Engine and learning the techniques for removing a Crank Shaft....it is the same method for every cox engine

Removal is easy
Properly aligning and re seating the drive plate is an art and critical technique

It is not difficult but better to learn and make mistakes on a junker engine....wink

fredvon4 Fri Jan 18, 2019 10:56 am

AND a big BY The WAY!!!! first testing should be with yellow safety prop and 25 to 35 % nitro fuel with 20 to 24% oil

that glass combat propeller is a wicked sharp and very danger play thing for a first timer learning how to start and tune the needle

I doubt for a while you will have a Tachometer but I bet Rod does.... that glass prop will add nearly 800 more RPM to a static (bench run)

most of my TeeDees run 20,000 to 26,500 static depending on a lot of variables including 45% Vitamin N and 18% mostly syn oil

This one has never been run...all stock...In fact I forgot to Polish the crank ...something I do to all my runners

My guess is on 25% it will tach around 19,500 to 21,800 RPM I picked a piston cylinder pair that satisfies the Paul Gibeault drop test

Oldenginerod Fri Jan 18, 2019 4:06 pm

Fred's words are wise. Why pull it apart? I know the carb body is the wrong colour, but why does that matter? The only reason to fit a red body would be to sell it as a collectable. After Fred's generosity I hope that doesn't happen. The collet and drive plate look like brand new. It won't take much of a slip up to make them look second hand. I started out by pulling every engine apart for no particular reason. After a couple of damaged exhaust ports, marked glow head slots and wonky drive plates, I decided that it's better to leave 'em be if there's nothing wrong. Now if I had a brand new Tee Dee crankcase, I wouldn't touch the thing with any tools. No!

KariFS Fri Jan 18, 2019 4:30 pm

I must agree, if it’s never run, it is better left alone. If the carb body ever breaks for any reason, then it is time to replace it. But it is your engine, so this is just a suggestion Smile

I do often take my engines apart ”just because”, but most of them are used, with wrench marks and castor goo all over them already. Like this one:

Fredvon4 sent me a tee dee and I didn’t know!? - Page 2 719a1910

That amount of goo will swell when the engine is run and slow it down. Actually that engine did not even turn over when I got it, and the muffler-throttle was stuck. It did clean up really nice though.

MBT85 Fri Jan 18, 2019 6:40 pm

Ok after reading what you guys have said I’m NOT going to pull it apart at all. It’s still sitting in the respective bags that they came in, I was waiting for that red carb body but I too agree with what you guys are saying and until the black plastic fails I will leave it alone. I’m going to wait for the parts though and use the Cox after run oil I brought to assemble it.

I do understand it’s mine to do what I wish but I will not sell it, this is my very first tee dee and to me it’s worth more than money.

I’m going to make a display stand for it but will still be taking it on my trip to Rods when that happens. Just a few loose ends to tie up first (drivers license)......

Thank you again so much guys and thank you soooo much to Fred your generosity wont be forgotten!!

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