Postage stamp mount rebirth

Forgot I had a crusty postage stamp engine with me. Here is the 3D printed version installed on an engine.

One sure couldn't ask for anything better.

Made the spray bar slot wider. The version of the mount I have the slot isn’t wide enough to install without removing the spray at from the postage stamp backplate. Removing these spray bars sometimes destroys the postage stamp mount.

The prototype looks good Jason , when cleaned up will make good display or runner !! Good to see your advancing in the hobby

Printed 6 in 2:15 minutes. This is the updated version with the wider opening for the spraybar.

The Goldberg version is a tight fit around the spraybar so your modifications should make it much easier.

Hi Jason, Those mounts look terrific! Were those printed with the higher-res. .25mm nozzle? If so; can you print the aforementioned zytel or glass-filled nylon materials using that nozzle?

These are still with a .4mm nozzle. I wanted to send a few out for testing before I run a batch in nylon. The fit will still be tight on the spray bar with these. A flat file or trimmed with xacto knife to adjust the fit.

If I remove any more material then might as well print in 2 halves. I have seen these cut before. Or cut them for installation.

Jason_WI wrote:Printed 6 in 2:15 minutes. This is the updated version with the wider opening for the spraybar.

Nice going Jason, never dawned on me 3D had an application for this type of use, but it looks really good, practical. AFAIK regarding needing a wider opening, the trick to yours was to carefully pop off the nylon tube needle retainer, then it would fit. I have the earlier spring retainer version and it fits the CG mount without problems, probably was the design basis for the mount.

With additional Sure Start backs and modified for Killer Bee backs made the mount unnecessary, but with those who still have the postage stamp back, yours is certainly a good up-to-date option.

I am unfamiliar with the strength of these printed materials, how do they compare to original style plastic parts?

Jason_WI wrote:These are still with a .4mm nozzle. I wanted to send a few out for testing before I run a batch in nylon. The fit will still be tight on the spray bar with these. A flat file or trimmed with xacto knife to adjust the fit.

If I remove any more material then might as well print in 2 halves. I have seen these cut before. Or cut them for installation.

Oh, oh, now that I’m no longer in school, ILike Tests! Pm me with cost and paypal for a test bed model!!

Well, I have a plane set up for the postage stamp with the Goldberg mount. If you want one tested to destruction (as all my planes are), I'll give it a go.

The MXC Elimination Challenge Mark

jarboy wrote:I am unfamiliar with the strength of these printed materials, how do they compare to original style plastic parts?

With nylon or nylon with carbon fiber it should be just as strong as a molded part. Special requirements are needed to successfully print with nylon. The filament must be dried or baked prior to printing to eliminate moisture. Moisture in the filament will weaken layer adhesion. I use a continuous filament dryer while printing nylon.

Shoot i will test one if you like i would like to see if i can run a postage stamp up to 20K

Printed a few with the .25mm nozzle at .1mm layer height. Much better detail captured with these prints. This is still clear PETG.

I need to run the next batch out of nylon.

Simply amazing Jason. Those look very well made. It is amazing what one can do in their own home now-a-days. But I have to ask. How long does it take to draw something like that up? Or even better, if someone with little knowledge of 3d printing like myself how long would such an endevour roughly take? Seeing your work make me think more and more.

It didnt take very long to draw up in tinkercad. I went from design to holding an actual part hot off the 3D printer in my hand in about an hour.

Tinkercad is pretty easy to use and it’s online based. Just sign up for an account.

Looks pretty good. Will the PETG stand up to nitro or is that why you are going with Nylon on the next run?

PETG will break down with nitro. See the chemical resistance chart for PETG.

https://docs.google.com/viewerng/viewer?url=http://3dfilaprint.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/Chemical-Resistance-Chart-Detail-PETT-or-PETG.pdf&hl=en_GB

Zytel will handle gasoline with alcohol and diesel fuel. I couldn’t find a reference to nitromethane.

Here they are in DuPont Zytel.

Looks great. So after printing, do you have to let it cool for a bit before handling and or use it so it cures, or is it good to go right off the printer? Just wondering as this is kind of a structural part for mounting.

I wait for the bed to cool down a bit before attempting to remove. Removing warm parts can distort them. The bed the print sits on is at 110C. The nozzle temperature for nylon is 270C. The nylon is molten and hardens fairly quickly. If you print small features and only of one part the part can turn into a molten blob. That’s why I like to print multiple parts of one item so it gives the fresh layer time to cool.

PLA filament needs a cooling fan enabled. No fan with nylon or separation between layers can occurs. Ideally my printer should be in a heated chamber for best results with nylon or ABS.

I will soak the nylon parts in water for a day then they will be pliable. Fresh off the printer they are hard and brittle.