Pee Wee Horseshoe back plate

I could redesign the back to use a TD .020 venturi and NVA since these are available new again. wrote:

Where are these available at ?

http://www.exmodelengines.com/home.php?cat=249&sort=orderby&sort_direction=0&page=2 A sponser.

Need to beef up the mounting leg area. One broke off removing the print from the bed.

Maybe some aluminum foil tape over the front would help scare away the heat. That mount looks nice. A CNC mill would be handy to have to make an aluminum mount. Maybe work a bit of overtime to save up :-)

HVAC aluminum foil tape should work. Could also print out of PETG that has a higher tg than PLA.

NEW222 wrote:That sound nice. I cannot honestly remember if I had ever heard an .020 run before. If I may ask. What is a 'venturi backplate mount'? Is it the second one you had posted a picture of? If so, where does the needle assy go. That part has me confused. I would be happy with just the standard one, unless there is something I do not know or understand with the function of the second one. Will be watching for sure. Keep up teh good work!

I’m trying to replicate this setup with the venturi backplate mount.




Good news I found my 11/64-40 tap. I had used it to tap the backplate on the engine above.

1/2A Nut wrote:Check out this project:

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Wow man this is beautiful, reminds me of my TeeDeeVooDoo. Any idea how much this Nucking Fut ( ) project weighs with the glow engine in the nose?

That aluminum mount is pretty cool, but requires quite a bit of strength from the material used.

For a plastic version it might be necessary to make a "flange" style mounting surface similar to the birdgage mounts used on Thermal Hopper. Maybe also increase the radius of the bases of the "legs" to spread the load to a bit wider area.

In any case, it is quite mind-blowing to realize that you can print the sealing surface and the retainer groove of the reed system with adequate accuracy and surface quality.

My Bad , i was thinking Pee wee since we were talking that then went to TD i new thoses ventura were available , But thanks Fred and aspeed < > Those TD mounts will bee cool if you can get it to stay together .

I’m trying to replicate this setup with the venturi backplate mount.




Good news I found my 11/64-40 tap. I had used it to tap the backplate on the engine above.[/quote]

Could the Carl Goldberg .049 postage stamp backplate mount you made be resized and adapted to go over the venturi style pee wee back plate? Or, could they be combined? I know it is really easy for me to type this stuff. I can only imagine what it is like to be doing what you are doing.

I knew when I beefed up the mounting tabs things would be pretty tight. I’ll have to open up a little bit to make room for the NVA. Also need to make the lugs a bit deeper to make clearance for the venturi to the firewall. I’ll test it as is to see if there is any better performance.

Shortened the overall design while lengthening out the legs. Shrunk the diameter a bit. Should be lighter too. Can't use the standard 2-56 x. 75' length screws with this design though. Hopefully its still strong enough.

That is pretty close
Will it need a extension on the needle ?

Video run of the latest version of the venturi mount. Still need to add clearance and possibly solder an extension on the needle valve. I can’t make the mount any thinner for fear of breaking too easily.



Here are a few pictures.

That sounds and looks great!!

Wow. That doesn't even look like it was 'printed', but rather pressed in a mold. I really enjoy seeing your pictures of stuff you print.

Its definitely printed. .1mm layer height or 100 microns. I believe I can get better resolution using .9 degree stepper motors vs 1.8 degree stepper motors on the X and Y axis. Less artifacts when micro-stepping in the firmware of the printer controller.

The second picture shows the support material removed. Without support the overhanging parts couldn't be printed. The brim around the legs help keep them adhered to the bed. Nylon likes to warp. I chuck the venturi mount in the lathe to give the surface area where the NVA seats a flat surface. I can shorten this tube now by .2" to save material. I made it longer to adjust the offset of the NVA.

1/2A Nut wrote:For sure should have more performance with that setup, could also use a GM .030 RC Carb

It might just fit.