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Post  Slick049 on Sat Feb 16, 2019 4:02 pm

Having perused some of the threads regarding the solo launching mechanisms(stooge), I got a harebrained idea to try and craft one of the electronic type.  I was able to locate some relatively inexpensive components on Amazon for the project and it came in at just under $30.  Not counting the scrap pieces I had laying around that were used for some fine tuning.
Here are the essentials:
Push button stooge Scroog10

Engineering was not too difficult as I figured I'd only need 1/2" throw (+/-).  The solenoid arm, such as it is, is loose and falls out, so I went with the "bellcrank" to provide a little leverage and extra throw and to contain the arm in the body of the solenoid.  It will ultimately have a removable enclosure for the components.  Here it is in the closed position:
Push button stooge Scroog11



And open:
Push button stooge Scroog12

All this to avoid having a string laying at my feet and the potential entangling whilst spinning in circles.
Anxiously awaiting some decent weather to try out my new airplane with this set up.

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Post  rsv1cox on Sat Feb 16, 2019 4:56 pm

I like it!

Key chain transmitter, micro chip receiver, a battery and solenoid and some odds and ends.

Could start a trend.

Thanks for sharing.....Got Amazon numbers and save me some time.....?

Bob
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Post  RknRusty on Sat Feb 16, 2019 5:06 pm

That's pretty slick. One of my flying buddies at our club made a fob actuated stooge too, and it works well. I have not seen the inside of his box, but I suspect it looks a lot like yours.

When you signal it, how long does the transistor stay switched on before it turns back off? Let us know how it works in the field when you get a chance to test it.

You may want a light spring to help hold it closed so it doesn't vibrate open. I wouldn't trust just the tension of the plane pulling on the pin to secure it from possibly moving from engine vibration.
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Post  Slick049 on Sat Feb 16, 2019 5:19 pm

Bob:

Here is what I ordered. There are many similar devices. I picked these by just guessing. Luckily, it worked.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0105UOV1I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H4VK882/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rusty:

Looks to be about a 3-4 second impulse. Roger on the spring. I was going to incorporate that but didn't have one light enough. Will have to wait 'til I get to the hardware store.
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Post  NEW222 on Sat Feb 16, 2019 5:31 pm

Now that is a great idea! Good job.
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Post  Levent Suberk on Sun Feb 17, 2019 1:01 am

Ingenious Very Happy
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Post  getback on Sun Feb 17, 2019 9:42 am

That is Cool , Nothing like having that string wrapped around your feet getting tighter as you turn lol! I got a stooge for holding the tail section STAB that i haven't tried yet ,, Next time out this spring !! Cool
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Post  ticomareado on Sun Feb 17, 2019 1:23 pm

Watch out!! The FAA might call your c/l model an unlicensed UAS.
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Post  944_Jim on Sun Feb 17, 2019 11:14 pm

As long as the stooge stays grounded, you can't call it a UAS.

Now, if the plane unhooked due to a on-board radio/hook...
Laughing
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Post  Oldenginerod on Mon Feb 18, 2019 12:39 am

RknRusty wrote:
You may want a light spring to help hold it closed so it doesn't vibrate open. I wouldn't trust just the tension of the plane pulling on the pin to secure it from possibly moving from engine vibration.
Rusty


There are similar solenoids available with a return spring built in. The one being used looks like it has a small ring or clip on the plunger. He may be able to install a light return spring under there.
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Post  Slick049 on Mon Feb 18, 2019 6:40 am

Oldenginerod wrote:
RknRusty wrote:
You may want a light spring to help hold it closed so it doesn't vibrate open. I wouldn't trust just the tension of the plane pulling on the pin to secure it from possibly moving from engine vibration.
Rusty


There are similar solenoids available with a return spring built in.  The one being used looks like it has a small ring or clip on the plunger.  He may be able to install a light return spring under there.

As I was going on the cheap with this project, I passed on the spring loaded options. Not that they're that much more expensive but I was in a "low as you can go" mode. As the plunger is not captive, I opted for the bellcrank to contain it and will rig a spring in some fashion when I find one. I'd opt for a "pre-sprung" if I had it to do over. My main engineering concern was compatible electronics and 9V battery functionality. I lucked out in that regard and was giddy with the results. All that said, I look forward to other's improvement of the mechanics. This was a shot in the dark design in as simple a format as I could imagine. Rigged as it is, I think it'll work after some tweeking.
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Post  rsv1cox on Mon Feb 18, 2019 7:13 am

Slick049 wrote:Bob:

Here is what I ordered.  There are many similar devices.  I picked these by just guessing.  Luckily, it worked.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0105UOV1I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H4VK882/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rusty:

Looks to be about a 3-4 second impulse.  Roger on the spring.  I was going to incorporate that but didn't have one light enough.  Will have to wait 'til I get to the hardware store.

Thanks. Amazon, almost like having a Radio Shack in your living room.

I miss R/S, I used to prowl that store while my wife shopped clothes.....
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Post  Marleysky on Mon Feb 18, 2019 8:22 am

rsv1cox wrote:
Slick049 wrote:Bob:

I miss R/S, I used to prowl that store while my wife shopped clothes.....


I remember having a “battery a Month” card. Used to replenish my D Size starter batteries. Yup, definitely miss browsing that store!
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Post  ticomareado on Mon Feb 18, 2019 9:24 am

"UAS" = Unmanned Aircraft SYSTEMS All it would take to get the fed SWAT team out would be just one creative and abusive bureaucrat to call the whole thing a "System".
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Post  Slick049 on Mon Feb 18, 2019 9:29 am

So, I went this morning and picked up a couple of "return" springs. The lightest they had. Got home and tested them and they proved too strong. Replaced the battery with a new one and got a little more pull out of the solenoid, but not enough. So I got to figuring that an increase in voltage would produce a stronger pull and considered doubling up the 9Vs. Got to reading up on the remote controller and it allows up to 36V, so would be safe there. Don't want to burn up the electronics if I can help it. Anyway, went on Amazon looking for a couple of 9V battery holders and low and behold, ran across some 12V (A23). Look to be a little fatter and maybe a little shorter than AAs. Admittedly, I had no clue they even made them. Come to find out they are very common for doorbells, garage door openers and such. Who knew?
So, the plan is, once delivered, is to gang up a couple of A23s for 24V and see what happens to the strength of pull of the solenoid. And then go to three if necessary. I'm trying to keep the stooge as compact as possible. Don't want to be lugging around a cinder block if I can help it.
And yea, Radio Shack. Ditto on what everybody else said.

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Post  944_Jim on Mon Feb 18, 2019 12:49 pm

I do t think it's a matter of voltage, but of available max current.
Two 9-volt batteries in parallel still won't be the amps you need for pulling the release pin against the side-load of a stooged model.

Your bellcrank offers travel over pull. You may be able to flip it for pull over travel, it should take only relocating a few pieces.

The alarm/security/ light battery will give you the amps you need, and still have plenty left over for the receiver. Use a motorcycle charger from Hirrunle Fright to top off the stooge battery from time to time.

I'm right behind you on this. How are you ballasting your stiige platform? Mine is held down with a cinder block.

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Post  Slick049 on Mon Feb 18, 2019 3:07 pm

I'll try flipping the bellcrank. Have it half way disassembled as it is. Moving stuff around won't be an issue. Goal is to keep it small. Will see what the A23s will do and upgrade to a bigger battery if necessary. Initial plan is to mount it to a piece of Masonite or peg board, say 2' X 3'. Do the landing gear side chock thing. Will peg it to the ground or set a block on it if needed. Will be flying 1/2A stuff w/.049s so I'm not too worried about it being overpowered and end up being drug around. Although, that would be a sight.
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Post  fredvon4 on Mon Feb 18, 2019 3:39 pm

Keep 9 Vdc... make lever fulcrum very close to 3 or 4 to 1 mechanical advantage... Narrow the guide to accommodate 2 times string width... max throw under 1/8th inch....no spring needed

my adjustments for a very cool design

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Post  Slick049 on Mon Feb 18, 2019 4:01 pm

fredvon4 wrote:Keep 9 Vdc... make lever fulcrum very close to 3 or 4 to 1 mechanical advantage... Narrow the guide to accommodate 2 times string width... max throw under 1/8th inch....no spring needed

my adjustments for a very cool design


I think the 3-4 to one advantage is an excellent idea. The narrower guide makes sense. 1/2" is a bit much/unnecessary.

ON TO PLAN uh L? Guess I should have kept track of the changes.
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Post  coxaddict on Mon Feb 18, 2019 4:14 pm

I like your idea for the remote. I'm going to try a different design using the solenoid to trip a sear allowing a spring loaded pin to retract, releasing the plane. Amazon here I come!
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Post  Slick049 on Mon Feb 18, 2019 4:23 pm

coxaddict wrote:I like your idea for the remote. I'm going to try a different design using the solenoid to trip a sear allowing a spring loaded pin to retract, releasing the plane.  Amazon here I come!

I think you're on to something!
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Post  Slick049 on Mon Feb 18, 2019 4:54 pm

Here are some details of my design.  Made use, mostly, of what I had laying around.  Here is the pivot for the bellcrank.  A short piece of K&S tubing with a washer on either end with a bolt to hold it all.
Push button stooge Stooge10
Push button stooge Stooge11

If I retain the bellcrank option (see "sear" system in previous comment), I will get a longer piece and glue it in the board as this one has gotten wallered(sp?) out, what with all the testing.

The wire guide is a long shank rivet head, glued into the angle piece, with a lock nut glued on for the overkill that's in it.
Push button stooge Stooge12
Push button stooge Stooge13

As all this is being concocted, I have just finished this Brodak trainer (Baby steps.  It was long ago since I last flew.) (Or built anything to fly)
Push button stooge Stooge14

And have just started the P-51.
Push button stooge Stooge15

A Lil Satan is third on the build list.

Just waiting for a warm, calm day.
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Post  944_Jim on Mon Feb 18, 2019 7:40 pm

Get a piece of music wire and bend a hairpin to go around the bellcrank pivot, then spring around the bellcrank and a screwanywhere that gets you enough spring back.
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Post  Jason_WI on Mon Feb 18, 2019 8:04 pm

Those A23 cells are pretty weak. They only have a 55mAh capacity down to 6V. I doubt it will pull in the solenoid.

The 9V battrry is about 600mAh and can supply a max of 500mA before the voltage sags. You may get a few actuations out of it before it gets too weak.

It’s all about ESR or equivalent series resistance. How much current can the battery supply and for how long (mAh).

A 3S1P 1000mAh lipo battery pack would be far superior to the above two batteries. It requires a special charger and voltage monitoring that most modelers have.

The other option is to use a boost regulator with 4 D batteries. It will take 2-24V and convert up to 28V DC at 2A of current. It has a potentiometer to adjust the output voltage. This way with the 2A of regulated current a solenoid with a return spring can be used.

Can find the boost converters on Amazon or eBay. Most ship from China and take a few weeks to get.

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Post  Slick049 on Sat Feb 23, 2019 4:24 pm

So.  Took Jason_WI's comments to heart.  The little A23s are not capable.  Went looking for the smallest(size) 12V I could find.  Ran across this:
Push button stooge Stooge16

Specs say battery puts out 3A.  The remote circuit can take up to 5A, which was my main worry.  The solenoid isn't bothered by much of anything, within reason.  Early testing proves it to be more than adequate.  Snatches the plunger out of my fingers.  Makes a very audible click.  More than enough pull.

Serendipitously, the battery fits perfectly in my field box.
Push button stooge Stooge17


And about that going cheap part on the front end?  Well, game over.  Besides the battery being free(which would cost $20-$30), I ordered one of those Hobbico power panels.  Basically doubled the initial investment.  Kissin' $70 total right now.  Oh well.  I've wasted more money on a lot less.  Upside is I'll break even on the weight thing as I'll rid myself of the glow plug battery array/box.

Now back to re-engineering the setup.  Looks like I'll go with a spring loaded plunger and go straight in without the need for the bellcrank.  Simpler is gooder.
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