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0.51 TD front bearing question Empty 0.51 TD front bearing question

Post  layback209 on Wed Sep 04, 2019 10:24 am

Hey everyone, came by a number of .051s the other day and am working on fixing them up so they can go back into service.

Dumb question, how much "play" is ok for the front plain bearing. On some of the motors there really isn't any when you wiggle the crank up and down from the prop side of the motor. But on a few there is a slight click/wiggle when you press up and down on the crank.... I was going to test run them when I get them all cleaned up to see if there is a noticeable difference. Wondering what others experience is? Not looking to have super performance just good runners for everyday booting around in the CL circle.

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Post  1/2A Nut on Wed Sep 04, 2019 1:58 pm

Just always use at least 18% castor to help seal and protect.
I use 20%
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Post  aspeed on Wed Sep 04, 2019 3:43 pm

It is more of a problem on the reedies. They will run unevenly. Rev up, slow down, rev up... If it runs evenly, then don't worry about it. It may be slightly faster if there is more clearance, til it leaks. Then as in the Foxes, add more oil, up to 33%.
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Post  Cribbs74 on Wed Sep 04, 2019 9:58 pm

I have not yet seen anyone wear a TD front end out. Haven’t even heard of it and I
Imagine there are only a few on here that have even come close. Try running your clickers.

Stay away from electric starters. If an engine looks to have been started by one it’s now only good for parts. Front end wear is accelerated when using a starter.

Do you need all the engines intact or can you just scavenge parts off of the loose fitting ones?

Ron


Last edited by Cribbs74 on Wed Sep 04, 2019 11:32 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post  layback209 on Wed Sep 04, 2019 10:28 pm

Thanks for the reply's. Super helpfull really appreciate it. I certainly dont need all of them, and some got more character than others. I dont really know the history but based on the nose wear on one an electric starter likley was used a bit or a couple nose plants occured.

Once I disassemble I'll probably learn more on which ones are best for parts, definently going to give them all a fair chance. For $5 - 15$ each I could help myself i was willing to take a risk.

That's interesting i do have a reedy with those exact symptoms aspeed. Cool.
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Post  1/2A Nut on Thu Sep 05, 2019 1:17 am

I would be careful not to mix up engine parts in regards to cylinders, pistons, cranks and cases.
They have all seated at this stage offering a better fit then if mixed up. Check for cranked plastic
carb bodies between the cylinder and the body a vertical crack from over tightening the venturi.
Look for play between the thrust plate and engine they should have thrust washers if not you c
can buy them still on the Cox engine web site along with carb bodies. You can remove the remaining
red off the spinners and shine them back up on a buffing wheel.

You have a awesome score there for the price very good. Since your in Canada Bernie is your best
bet for parts. Cox International from Canada.
Hex head prop bolts would be good upgrade, a few fresh glow plugs, but can use 000 steel wool and
shine those puppies back up. I like using a buffing wheel to bling them up and aluminum carb bodies
for additional cooling that and they never crack.
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Post  Levent Suberk on Thu Sep 05, 2019 2:55 am

If cone of electric starter is off center, then steel shaft can wear the aluminum crankcase bearing.
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Post  aspeed on Thu Sep 05, 2019 7:06 am

Out of balance props and high revs take their toll too. The Bees usually wear to an egg shape at the bottom rear of the case. Often you can pull the prop forward and rock the piston up and down with a stiff prop. The Thundertiger .07s were really bad for that right from new. Some would barely run. My TDs are all good. Some guys lap the crank for more revs. Maybe it went too far.
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