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Cox Engine of The Month
February-2024
1/2A Nut's

"RC Speed Boat Power Drive TD .020"

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How to remove those stuck cylinders

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How to remove those stuck cylinders Empty How to remove those stuck cylinders

Post  DrCox Thu Nov 21, 2019 7:09 pm

I have struggled in the past with this problem. Many times I have just let well enough alone and put the problem aside.  Heres the problem:

How to remove those stuck cylinders W1LPKGo

This is a .020 Pee Wee with a spot welded exhaust spark arrest screen. I decided to disassemble the engine as far apart as possible. Many times the glow head is pretty well stuck to the cylinder. No luck this time. It was loose. I couldn't figure out how to remove the cylinder from the crankcase. In the past (approx 50 years ago) I used the dreaded pliers. Boy, did that leave a mark to the fins. Never again.

Well, here we are again, stuck cylinder to crankcase with the exhaust ports covered. My solution is a bit crude but if one takes their time, success. Other more experience modelers may have a much better solution in which I would be happy to hear about, but until that time, here goes.

Stabilize the crankcase between two pieces of wood in the vise. Cut a piece of rubber, such as an bicycle inner tube so its the proper dimension of the cylinder. I'll usually have the piston at the bottom of its travel. Heat the base of the cylinder/crankcase for a moment. I usually use a propane torch. Quickly wrap the rubber around the cylinder (I folded which doubled the inner tube) and GENTLY apply pressure with the pliers while turning the cylinder counterclockwise. The key is to grip lightly and try to remove. If not, try a little more heat, etc. Because it was a .020 Pee Wee, I didn't anticipate too much resistance.

Hopefully, this may help other forum members removing cylinders when the exhaust ports are blocked and avoid those ghastly pliers marks. Yuck.


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Post  Marleysky Thu Nov 21, 2019 7:50 pm

Very Good solution to a sticky problem!
Yes, heat is your friend when dealing with castor oil stuck items. The bicycle inter tube is also a handy, nearby ( sorry Bobby, your bike has a flat tire!) source of non-slip, non-marring grip protection! I try NOT to use anything inside the flats of the cylinder opening, other than fuel tube to prime, so a 100 watt soldering Iron and a old strip of leather belt wrapped around the exterior of the cylinder gripped by pliers, usually works for me to prevent those awful plier marks on the cylinder heads!
Thanks for the pictures and your solution!
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Post  DrCox Thu Nov 21, 2019 8:03 pm

Marleysky wrote:
(sorry Bobby, your bike has a flat tire!)

Now that was funny. Loved the sarcasm.
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Post  NEW222 Thu Nov 21, 2019 8:19 pm

That is a great idea. Thanks for sharing it. I have used wood in the past in my vice, but recently when a quick look didn't see anything, I cradle it in a leather glove. Then I use a finger of the matching leather glove with pliers to remove them. Another thing I have heard of is to use a strap wrench, the strap type that has a rubber 'grabber'. I do not know exactly which one would be good for our sized engines, but have read it online somewhere. Thsi is the type I was reffering to. And lucky you all in the USA. Harbor Freight at only $5 for the pair! When I come back down next April, this will be on my shopping list for sure!

https://www.harborfreight.com/2-pc-rubber-strap-wrench-set-69373.html
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Post  ticomareado Thu Nov 21, 2019 8:34 pm

So are you going to do away with flame arrestor?
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Post  DrCox Thu Nov 21, 2019 8:56 pm

NEW222 wrote:Harbor Freight at only $5 for the pair!

https://www.harborfreight.com/2-pc-rubber-strap-wrench-set-69373.html

Next time I'm there, I'll check your suggestion out. They seem quite large for the small diameter cylinders of our Cox engines, but one never know until one checks it out. If a good tool, I'll let you know.

ticomareado wrote:So are you going to do away with flame arrestor?

I never liked the spark arrestor, but I'm leaving it attached. Who knows, the next caretaker may like it?
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