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What Were They Thinking to Remove Cylinder

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Post  balogh on Thu May 28, 2020 9:26 am

Surfer_kris wrote:As mentioned earlier, a leather strap is all that's needed. Just heat up the crankcase and adjust the length of the strap so that you get a nice pinch. The principle is the same as for oil-filter removal tools on car engines. With a few different holes in the strap you'll have a tool for all cox engines sizes, and also for PAW and Webra diesel engines etc.

What Were They Thinking to Remove Cylinder - Page 2 Img_2010

Kris, whatever I am doing, with a similar leather strap remover I just made, all I can reach is that the strap slips on the cylinder fins, no matter how well the fins are de-greased, and how firmly I grip the strap. I understand that the flat side of the handle should press the strap against the cylinder when you rotate the handle and with this compression force the friction is in principle avoided, but apart from deep skid-marks on the inside of the strap, there is no result whatsoever. In addition, I tried that on an engine that was recently disassembled, so the castor is not yet caked between the cylinder and crankcase threads.

I know this tool works for many of you, but not for me ... Very Happy Is there anything I should do differently?
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Post  OVERLORD on Thu May 28, 2020 9:43 am

I didn't have any luck with such a strap neither. To remove the cylinder, I clamped the cylinder in one end of a vice with hard rubber protection pieces. Then I heated up the crank case and turn the crank case with your hand and a rag. On the other side of the vice, I clamped at the same time another cylinder. The reason I clamped it on the vice's side is because then it's possible to see wether the cylinder would still turn or not.

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Post  aspeed on Thu May 28, 2020 9:46 am

The end of the stick squeezes the leather kind of.  You could soak the leather in water for a little while?  IDK  I use a similar one for oil changes in the car.  The rubber strap stretches a bit too much but it usually works well if the part is not too tight. In any case, if you have the tools to mill flats on the cylinder later, it is really the best.
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Post  balogh on Thu May 28, 2020 10:08 am

aspeed wrote:The end of the stick squeezes the leather kind of.  You could soak the leather in water for a little while?  IDK  I use a similar one for oil changes in the car.  The rubber strap stretches a bit too much but it usually works well if the part is not too tight.  In any case, if you have the tools to mill flats on the cylinder later, it is really the best.  

Yes indeed this is what I am contemplating i.e. cutting the flats on the top fin myself, but with my manual abilities that are a bit less than those of the Neander Valley cave man, I already see myself jumping around cursing that I have completely messed up a vintage stock cylinder.... Very Happy


Last edited by balogh on Thu May 28, 2020 10:13 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post  balogh on Thu May 28, 2020 10:11 am

OVERLORD wrote:I didn't have any luck with such a strap neither. To remove the cylinder, I clamped the cylinder in one end of a vice with hard rubber protection pieces. Then I heated up the crank case and turn the crank case with your hand and a rag. On the other side of the vice, I clamped at the same time another cylinder. The reason I clamped it on the vice's side is because then it's possible to see wether the cylinder would still turn or not.


Thanks, good idea indeed, maybe I will try with an old defunct cylinder to check if the rubber padding of the vice will really prevent distortion of the cylinder fins..
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Post  Iceberg on Thu May 28, 2020 11:57 am

balogh wrote:
OVERLORD wrote:I didn't have any luck with such a strap neither. To remove the cylinder, I clamped the cylinder in one end of a vice with hard rubber protection pieces. Then I heated up the crank case and turn the crank case with your hand and a rag. On the other side of the vice, I clamped at the same time another cylinder. The reason I clamped it on the vice's side is because then it's possible to see wether the cylinder would still turn or not.


Thanks,  good idea indeed, maybe I will try with an old defunct cylinder to check if  the rubber padding of the vice will really prevent distortion of the cylinder fins..

Hi Andras
I have cut a number of cylinder top fins with a hacksaw in a vice. You can cut them so carefully that they look as good as the factory cylinders with that top fin cut. Only thing is the end of the cut is aluminum color not black anymore. Works really good.
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Post  Levent Suberk on Thu May 28, 2020 12:24 pm

Brownells Formula 44/40 is good for the bluing cylinder.

What Were They Thinking to Remove Cylinder - Page 2 Gun_bl10

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Post  balogh on Thu May 28, 2020 2:04 pm

Darren, Levent thanks for the encouragement. Maybe I will try on a worn out cylinder. Yes I use gun blue on my cylinders regularly!
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Post  Surfer_kris on Thu May 28, 2020 2:36 pm

Regarding a leather strap, it is all about getting the length just right and one can also place a fine emery cloth around the cylinder for extra grip. Preheating the crankcase also helps.

Below is how I typically use it, apply some pretension to the strap (with the thumb) and as you apply more torque the leather band will tighten more and more. Here I picked up an old and used golden bee from the box of coxes, and I could easily remove the cylinder without pre-heating the crankcase:

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Post  balogh on Thu May 28, 2020 3:58 pm

Yes Kris this emery cloth may be the key..then some gun blue to restore the nice COX cylinder color
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Post  aspeed on Thu May 28, 2020 4:14 pm

Or knurl the cylinder like the Foras. Maybe use some pliers to get some marks in the fins for grip. OH, NO never mind.
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Post  Surfer_kris on Thu May 28, 2020 5:07 pm

balogh wrote:Yes Kris this emery cloth may be the key..then some gun blue to restore the nice COX cylinder color

I'm using 1000 grit and one can turn the grainy side towards the leather, so there should be any marks on the cylinder at all. Wink
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