Rescuing and old engine.

I had a frozen 1965 version OS Max .10R/C, must have been run on all Castor before it was last run.

I placed it in a pan on the stove covered with boiling water for 10 minutes, freed up the cylinder liner insert so I could easily extract it. I'd just make sure to remove all the plastic pieces, so that one doesn't accidentally damage it by the heat of the boiling water.

I like using boiling water versus dry heat, because it limits the temperature high end to 212 Deg F (100 Deg C) and no higher.

Clearly wasnt of value - removed

My oven is pyrolytic, so I can get 500C if I need to. I hate to think what that will do to precision engineering though, so I'll try the liquid methods first.
Thanks for your help.

For a engine that's as old as it is and the high content castor fuels used back in the day, I would find it difficult to believe fuel or alcohol will easily free it. The metallurgy of that engine isn't exactly stellar. Don't force it or your going to damage the rod or the piston. I use Marvel air tool oil or transmission fluid which has detergent cleaning properties and let it soak and heat liberally. I use whatever means necessary to get these fluids to the rod and wrist pin areas. I never pry a backplate away from the case. I liberally pour the above oils onto the gasket areas and begin heating with a heat gun until it smokes. I then pour more and once satisfied the heat has distributed I then twist rather than pull which usually saves a gasket. Once I have access to the crankcase, I pour more oil in and once again heat using the heat gun from the underside and the top side. The oil acts as a gauge due to it's smoking. Torches for example could be carefully used but they tend to add concentrated heat too fast to small areas which can warp or distort. When I do use a torch which I have had to, I wave the flame vigorously around the case.

            I believe the Cameron .19 is a ringed engine and I would lean towards caution in terms of removing the piston and insuring that the rings are not gummed up.

Ken Cook wrote: ....say this.... For a engine that's as old as it is and the high content castor fuels used back in the day would find it difficult to believe fuel or alcohol will easily free it. The metallurgy of that engine isn't exactly stellar. Don't force it or your going to damage the rod or the piston. I use Marvel air tool oil or transmission fluid which has detergent cleaning properties and let it soak and heat liberally

            I believe the Cameron .19 is a ringed engine and I would lean towards caution in terms of removing the piston and insuring that the rings are not gummed up.

!!!!!!!!This is Good advise ken say Don't force it or your going to damage the rod or the piston!!!!!!!
True
And ...., this I would find it difficult to believe fuel or alcohol will easily free it. ok ok but ken I don't agree!!!! I've never (Stripped paint )wit oil .....with nitro fuel its posible To Remove paint and wit transmission oil or 3-in-one oil It is not once rust that rust inhibitors will act its Good for prévention***** only nitro fuel only **** Not diesel Not acétone no rust inhibitors is Good as nitro fuel plus its made for it no contamination 100% This is the quickest way usually a few minutes are enough then heat it Generally as it is nitro fuel it burns at a good temperature so I light the fire directly on the cylinder let the nitro burn for a little while until the engine is very hot and makes it turn easily almost every time Whether wd40 transmission oil 3 in one oil all very good for after when the time comes to store To avoid this To hapen I have already used other ways, to tell the truth, I have already done everything And I give in my opinion the best and most effective way To do this

Looks like I'm going to be busy. Thanks guys.

Good luck on your engine restoration, @Raveloe. I look at the methods described by all here as tools to problem solving. Every situation may require different approaches given the severity of the situation, etc.

I ran across a situation that I never expected, on an E-Bay buy that was at best a misrepresentation of actual conditions. Whether done deliberately, that I don't know, but was able to turn a sow's ear into a silk purse.

https://www.coxengineforum.com/t12115-kb-35-stallion-acquisition

Other times, I received a complete dud. Fortunately, I have received help from the modelers in the community, when I needed special parts hard to obtain otherwise. One was a bastardized K&B .20 Sportster R/C, with ruined cylinder and piston. A kind modeler who sometimes posts on Stunt Hangar came to my rescue, mailed 2 parts engines for the cost of postage, that allowed to repair it with his parts.