Tee Dee 010 self destruction?

roddie wrote:[

Hi Andras! I'd say that you've come up with a good solution; one that would be simple for other people to duplicate, using only an aluminum can... and scissors to cut it into the deflector shape. It's lightweight.. and providing those tabs that sandwich securely in-between the firewall, makes it a "1-piece" add-on that doesn't require any hardware.

I doubt that you'll have any further melting of the tank-plastic, due to the aluminum "sinking-off" the heat and dispersing it over a much larger area. If your "tabs" are long enough, it would allow you to raise the rear-section slightly to increase the air-gap.. if it becomes necessary.

Thanks Roddie yes, my solutions in general are not really complex and rewarding for those who seek extended efforts to remedy problems in a more professional way, but chances are this will work too...

Levent Suberk wrote:A piece of heat reflective tape can be another solution other than heat deflector.

https://www.amazon.com/Design-Engineering-010408-Self-Adhesive-Reflective/dp/B000E283S0#immersive-view_1674411935461

Levent, this is great.
Do you think that hot castor will not dilute its backside glue and make it peel off the tank?

Andras, I think that it needs to replace at every flight run. Need to try.

https://www.designengineering.com/content/faq/010408.pdf

From FAQ pdf:
"Cool-Tape has a super strong self-adhesive backing capable of protecting up to 2000°F radiant heat. It is made of a one mil aluminized material bonded to woven fiberglass"

Sounds excellent, Levent..would be good to have a piece and try...our favorite lubricant, castor, does not seem to have unsurmountable hurdles when it comes to seeping into places no-one wants it to seep into

Andras, if you have another .010 then try to change cylinder. Perhaps exhaust slots will be parallelled with crankshaft in this way.

balogh wrote:Sounds excellent, Levent..would be good to have a piece and try...our favorite lubricant, castor,  does not seem to have unsurmountable hurdles when it comes  to seeping into places no-one wants it to seep into

Yes, this one seems a very simple solution.

Yes I have quite a few waiting for their turn, so swapping the engine may also be a quick way..but that would be a severe sentencing of this engine, that is supposed to work in any random exhaust position, as it was intended to by its producers..I will try my best to find it a chance for its continued service.

balogh wrote:Yes I have quite a few wsitng for their turn, so swapping the engine may also be a quick way..but that would be a severe sentencing of this engine, that is supposed to work in any random exhaust position..I will try my best to find it a chance for its continued service.

Right

davidll1984 wrote:

Levent Suberk wrote:I am going to make one:

Yes very good ider may not forget that a shim is used at the rear in this way it is dangerous for the crankshaf and the connecting rod the connecting rod could come out of the track inside the crankcase what you add on one side must be removed from the other i bad expérience this trouble using one made for .049 bee engine The crankcase must be adjusted the right way is to remove the cylinder measure then after adding this part the crankcase will have to be adjusted to have the same measurement

This is a red herring and not worth worrying about for a moment-the shim sits in place of the tank gasket and should have a central hole that matches the ID of the crankcase-there is NO WAY it can have the slightest effect on the crankshaft or rod. Levent's idea is quite practical-and allows you to adjust the angle of the deflector so you don't contact the tank top forward portion. In addition-with a bit of experimentation in the angle you can also -by using a compound angle-arrange for the exhaust to be deflected off most of the model to one side or the other.

FWIW-I had a similar experience some 35 years ago bench running a G-Mark 03 engine without the muffler-the top front edge of the tank started to melt....fortunately I noticed before too much harm had been done-and made up a deflector very much along the lines of Levent's design-but with 3 screw holes to match the roughly triangular G-Mark crankcase external rear profile.

On the material used by mecoa I am inclined to agree that it is different from the original used by Cox-though I disaggree that te original stuff was Delrin....which is not usually moulded...being generally only supplied as solid rod and plate [I have used it for decades...] and normally only in either natural cream or black.

ChrisM
'ffkiwi'