Ebay Ringmaster Resto (finishing pics!)

cribbs74 wrote:Jim,

Yes, it's like it's pictured. There were no slots in the ribs for the bellcrank mount. I do plan on doing that although not sure if the ribs have enough meat to cut on.

If not I will have to cut new ones.

It doesn't look like "meat" is the problem. It looks like interference with the tool between adjacent ribs is the problem. No easy answer on that. Cut undersized from one side, then open it up some from each side evenly and use a gap filling cement (or epoxy) for joining.

Cutting slots on already installed ribs is no fun.

Phil

Thanks Phil,

I suppose I could just use a blade without the handle. I'll give it a shot.

cribbs74 wrote:Thanks Phil,

I suppose I could just use a blade without the handle. I'll give it a shot.

be very, very careful with bare blades. there's a reason they make the handle 6inches long. try drilling small holes with a dremel tool, then cutting them square with a small cutting wheel. it's a lot easier than a trip to the ER for a #11 blade thru the thumb.

Hey!

Who is this guy talking sense? Lol thanks HD good idea I will use a dremel.

Today I was able to cut out doublers. Thank goodness for my little craftsman scroll saw!

I extended them further than the originals.

https://i.imgur.com/mcfrx.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/mO1aD.jpg

Dremel makes a micro-saw in addition to an abrasive wheel that works on wood.
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-670-Mini-Saw-Attachment/dp/B00008Z9ZP/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-409-Cut-off-Wheels-thick/dp/B00004UDGX/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1356581453&sr=1-1&keywords=dremel+cutting+wheel

I have the abrasive wheels from Dremel for my knockoff unit. I don't use them much because of the mess it makes and I build in a carpeted guest bedroom. I have had really good success with them though (outside or in the garage) Mask off the cut with blue tape then cut along the tape. I have done this with plastic more than wood (what a mess! Plastic swarf sprayed 30 feet away!) The BLUE tape is for visibility. Sharpie marker lines vanish under the swarf spray when cutting plastic.

Phil

I SO need a scroll saw!
Phil

Phil,

I like that little saw attachment! I have a billion of those cutoff wheels so I will probably go that route. Good idea with the tape. Luckily I can make all the mess I want. Having a shop is a blessing!

https://i.imgur.com/hCaTR.jpg


I spent years working in crowded garages and tight spaces. So first chance I got to buy a house with a shop I pounced.

I got the space for one of those nice shop buildings...not the money though. Need 3 new bathrooms, kitchen, floors...at least the house isn't sinking anymore...foundation piers are expensive.

I recall the unguarded attachment that is not available anymore. I want to try this saw thing, but haven't seen it locally.

Phil

Phil,

I feel your pain. Ihave gone down that road before. House repairs are expensive and time consuming especially if you do it all yourself. I have repairs to make with this home as well. I spent 4 years doing repairs in my old home. When I finally got it done it was time to sell.

Where in Ohio are you located? I was up there for work a few weeks ago (Dayton/Wright Patterson) Shoot me a PM if you don't want to answer here.

Ron

I am north of Columbus about an hour in Marion. Happily not snowed in today. Dayton is a bit of a hike from here.
Phil

Ron, if your near a Harbour freight, they have a cheap knock off Dremel system for 10 bucks, no guts but perfect for modeling. That's what I use for a job like slotting a preexisting rib. You could glue new partial ribs inside the old one's with slot's in them, only thing is you would loose some of the bellcrank space. I would go with making slot's with the dremel. Maybe glue some balsa wood out side the ribs to support the new slots after the support is glued in place. Man, I love this kind of stuff. Make's you use your head. Still haven't gone over to Bill's to collect the fox .35. I don't want to bother him during the holiday's. I'll definitely go over after the first of the year. Hang in there brother, I'll have your power plant real soon.

Jim Hayes

Thanks Jim,

Great minds think alike. I was already planning in doubling the ribs. As long as I go on the outside of each rib I won't lose any space.

I already have a Dremel brand Dremel. Bought it almost 20yrs ago. Still works just as good now as it did then.

One of the old Ringmaster issues that I did not see addressed is the "folding wing" thing. Between the inability to use Ambroid properly and the inferior plywood used to join the wing halves, many Ringmasters would fold their wings on a rough landing, and sometimes on a sharp maneuver.

Make sure the wing halves are joined securely.

George

No worries George,

I wrapped the splits with glass tape and epoxy.

Anybody know if the S1 rudder is cut away to accept to horizontal stab? Or is the fuse slotted for the stab and the rudder sits on the fuse/stab? My Rings tail was in pieces when I got it so it's hard to tell.

Ron

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showatt.php?attachmentid=3767972&d=1296422615

Mark Boesen wrote:http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showatt.php?attachmentid=3767972&d=1296422615

it's not the same as the Baby Ringmaster. for the BRM the fuse is slotted for the elevator assembly and the rudder parts sit on top of the fuselage. on the ringmaster the elevator assembly sits on top of the fuse and the rudder sits on top of the elevator assy. hd

Thanks Guys,

I have those plans Mark. They are a redraw by Pat King. The plans themselves say it's been modified from the original. All I know is that the ribs in those plans are about 1/4" too short than my original Sterling S-1. So that makes me wonder what else has been modified.

Of course Sterling only provided build instructions. Which I don't have so I was hoping some seasoned feller might remember if that is the correct way or not.

happydad wrote:

Mark Boesen wrote:http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showatt.php?attachmentid=3767972&d=1296422615

it's not the same as the Baby Ringmaster. for the BRM the fuse is slotted for the elevator assembly and the rudder parts sit on top of the fuselage. on the ringmaster the elevator assembly sits on top of the fuse and the rudder sits on top of the elevator assy. hd

I will just do it like you suggested.

Ron, the elevator sits directly on top. One common problem of the Ringmaster. Many builders would taper the fuse to improve the blocky look of the fuse and to reduce weight. This is where the problem begins. Almost every Ring I built ends up nose heavy requiring tail weight. Solution: Don't taper the fuse as much on these builds leaving the platform for the stab the full 1/2" width. The stab should be glued using epoxy and staked either using toothpicks or BB-Q skewers through the stab into the fuse. I also put pin prick marks into the fuse on the area of glue on the mating surface of the stab. Reason being, if the Ring take a nose dive, the momentum usually results in the fly swatter affect tearing the tail right off. If the stab comes off, the elevator becomes over extended which now rips your hinges off of the stab. This becomes real problematic if your using pin hinges which in my opinion is the best to use. This is a difficult repair to fix, and it looks very unsightly when repaired. At that point redoing the pin hinge right next to the existing is typically the solution. I would also take 3/8" triangular stock and place a slight radius on the fore and aft corners glued directly underneath the stab on each side of the fuse. This will result in probably the strongest and most reliable joint for your stab. As for the rudder, I don't CA rudders on. Why?, these makes future repairs almost impossible. I use epoxy for that due to the fact it's end grain on the mating surface of the rudder. After it set, a mixture of micro balloons and epoxy preferably 30 min alongside of the rudder to the stab results in a great looking fillet which assists in the side to side flex. Ken

Thanks Ken,

I was already planning on using toothpicks to secure the stab. As luck would have it I did not sand the top of the fuse where the stab sits. I figured the more area there the better. Good idea on the triangular stock.

Just a quick update to let you see where the project is headed. Everything is painted and covered not to include the cockpit. I realized I had glued it too far forward so I cut it off and slid it back. I plan on trimming it in the traditional Red/White/Blue color scheme.

Now that I have found a place to fly it I am more eager to finish.

https://i.imgur.com/RLkpQHO.jpg



https://i.imgur.com/boiFXCx.jpg

Almost Done! Just have some bits here and there to do. It's big! LOL

Nice looking plane. Good job on the wing covering too. Ultracote?