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Cox Cylinder Blacking Empty Cox Cylinder Blacking

Post  ian1954 Fri Aug 23, 2013 6:05 pm

Here's what I do:-

Find some grotty cylinders. Rusty, pliered, castor oiled and generally uncared for!

Cox Cylinder Blacking Blacki10

Stick them on a whirly thing (I use a lathe) and clean them. I use wire wool (very fine), wet and dry (very fine), polish, string and flimsy cloths. A very fine file to remove burrs and plier marks.

Cox Cylinder Blacking Blacki11

If you notice, I also make a very tight fitting insert to pevent the blacking compounds working on the inside. Use anything, the following example shows "three in one". Nylon rod turned to a tight fit, tape wrapped around the rod and elastic bands.

Cox Cylinder Blacking Blacki12

Then it is dipped in a mild alkaline degreaser (tame sodium hydroxide and a few other chemicals) and agitated. I leave it there for about five minutes.

Then rinse in water, dry and insert into the blacking solution - there are many makes but this is the best I have found. No longer than 4 minutes. I usually do 31/2 minutes.

Cox Cylinder Blacking Blacki13

Remove, rinse and dry. When I say dry - dab with a paper towel.

Cox Cylinder Blacking Blacki15

Then leave to soak in dewatering fluid for 10 minutes. This appears to be WD40 by another name!

Cox Cylinder Blacking Blacki14

Remove and leave to dry and ............... this is what you should end up with.

Cox Cylinder Blacking Blacki16

New looking cylinders!

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Post  pkrankow Fri Aug 23, 2013 6:40 pm

Impressive! Well done.

Phil
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Post  Cribbs74 Sat Aug 24, 2013 12:23 am

Nice work Ian. You always have great ideas!

Ron
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Post  anm2 Sat Aug 24, 2013 5:27 am

Ian, Is the blackening fluid only cosmetic or does it actually protect the metal? Also, how will it hold up to use? Thanks for sharing this information. Andy
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Post  andrew Sat Aug 24, 2013 10:28 am

Very nice work --- your finished cylinders look great.
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Post  ian1954 Sat Aug 24, 2013 10:53 am

anm2 wrote:Ian,  Is the blackening fluid only cosmetic or does it actually protect the metal?  Also, how will it hold up to use?  Thanks for sharing this information.  Andy
The blackening fluid protects the metal and binds itself to it forming black oxide coating. This solution contains a portion of selenium dioxide, I am not sure what this adds to the process but this solution is ideal for home use. The "true" blackening process are heat based and use seriously caustic solutions, not for home use.

This finish is more than cosmetic and ideal for cylinders. I also use it to protect, from rust, components in some of the tools that I make to support my machinery.

However, I would not put it on something that is subject to wear. (A hand gun slipping in and out of a holster would eventually wear down the finish).

Caution though - It is expensive!. The chemicals shown are in the order of £40 for the three conatiners but they have a shelf life of 30 years +. I also use it for smaller components like the tommy bars on diesel engines.

Do not let the blacking liquid contact the inside of the cylinder. The piston will no longer fit!

I have experimented with "gun blue" applications and they don't seem as robust as this.

Below are pictures of an "Anglicised" piece of Americana. It was well used and had started to become rust spotted as the original finish wore and was used in damp conditions. The barrel was "gun blued" but the "silence is golden" at the end of the barred was blackened. This was 3 years ago - picture taken today.

Cox Cylinder Blacking Crosma10
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Post  Cribbs74 Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:10 am

Ian,

That's the mistake I made. I threw the whole cylinder in the solution. What's worse I walked away and forgot it for 8hrs! lol! 
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Post  ian1954 Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:13 am

Cribbs74 wrote:Ian,

That's the mistake I made. I threw the whole cylinder in the solution. What's worse I walked away and forgot it for 8hrs! lol! 
8 hrs !!! Tut..Tut! No longer that 4 minutes with this stuff.

But we all make mistakes - some more than others and I don't admit to all of mine!
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Post  Jason_WI Mon Aug 26, 2013 6:37 pm

What do you use to mask the inside of the cylinder with to not get the inside coated? Looks like just tight fitting delrin or you use a paint mask of some sort. Maybe wax would work if you are careful.
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Post  ian1954 Tue Aug 27, 2013 5:01 am

Jason_WI wrote:What do you use to mask the inside of the cylinder with to not get the inside coated? Looks like just tight fitting delrin or you use a paint mask of some sort. Maybe wax would work if you are careful.
For 010, 020 and 049 - I use a nylon rod turned to a tight fit.

The rod shown was the 020 rod - for the Olympic cylinder I wrapped electrical tape around it for a very tight fit and then elastic bands to slide the 09 piston on at the end. All remained water tight.

Three different methods - I have also used PTFE tape (didn't work!), wax (didn't work!) - it didn't like sticking to the metal, I filled the cylinder with candle wax and it shrank away from the cylinder in places.

I have never tried a liquid paint mask but masking tape stuck to the inside didn't hold and masking tape wrapped around a rod was a little iffy. When compressed it didn't bounce back!
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