build log at RCG, Lastick, .020 powered

I have no idea really, I just buy what I can get, I never tried for lightweight coverings. The last I knew of, there was some good lightweight stuff on the market that glued on( I would have to look for the name), but I stuck to the monokote type stuff because that`s all I ever used. I like the transparent for my built up models because I like to see the "skeleton" airframe. It also helps see something slightly busted and ready to give under stress after a crash that it survived in tact (aka most of my flight attempts lately lol)
So, I never checked the lightweight coverings out. I try to stick to what I think I know that works, or that I have heard works thats simple enough for me to use. Monokote is the only type I have ever used, so I tollerate the weight.
There is no way I could use tissue &dope and get that right, I knew that from my start in modelling lol

Hopefully someone will chime in somewhere, ask around, read some other builds , stuff like that.

If the local hobby shop (aka e-flite boxed electric powered sales shop, no model builders work there) doesn`t have any transparent, I come home and order from tower hobbies, hobby people, etc.
Check out tower hobbies website, they usually have some info in their descriptions.

I am trying out the New Hangar 9 Ultracoat Parklite covering on this SuperJake I am building. Really easy stuff to iron on and it is semi transparent, enough to see wood grain. Have always used the Ultracoat stuff. Really like the true multi temperature adjustability of this iron on cover. Adheres at about 215°-220°, so you can get your corners and round edges tacked down, then just a bit more heat (225°-230°) for a slight shrink. If more shrink is needed to pull a wrinkle out, you just dial a bit more heat into the iron.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/3_525_966/products_id/149341/n/Hangar-9-ParkLite-UltraCote-True-Red

i gotta try that.
jaspur< what time is it where ever you are at? its 3am local time.

I use solarfilm So Lite covering film. It is great and they do it in all colours, solid and transparent even completely clear.

Sorry I missedyour Q, I didn`t ralize that my profile info was incomplete. I`m from S/W Pennsylvania;I`m probably 2 or3 hrs behind you, your in az right?

How`s she coming?

well, almost finished. the CG is too far forward, i forgot to account for the .5 inch flaps, this move back the theroetical cg backwards. the .020 dont run, so i have it dissassembled and soaking. i got my third engine today, a very dry and gummy .020, soaking as well. its funny, 3 engines and not one runs..
will try again in a couple of days, after all, its not like the wind is going to quit or anything......

thats not cool, but don`t get discouraged, I have that all the time, most of the engines I have bought used. But then there is this one 010 that wasn`t quite right from brand new.

A little compressed air and or fluid under pressure helps cleaning them up. Like put pressure through the pick-up hose and vary the needle setting in and out. I usually like to totally dis assemble a gummy engine to get the crank and so on cleaned up for the lube passage there. I just got a used teedee 049 that wasn`t too gummed up, but I still tore her down when she seemed to have some drag while I flipped the prop with the glowhead off. So I pulled her all the way down;sure enough, good I did. It may have been ok to run her that war, but I cleaned her up anyway to stop unnecessary wear from happening. A new piston/cylinder and she is good as new.
Maybe I should have sold you one of my good ones that I know does run; instead of just letting you find your own.

the cg might be the easy part. you can shift the reciever and batterypack to fix the cg? maybe even a servo or 2?

Keep us posted on progress.

Jaspur_x wrote:...I just got a used teedee 049 that wasn`t too gummed up, but I still tore her down when she seemed to have some drag while I flipped the prop with the glowhead off. So I pulled her all the way down;sure enough, good I did. It may have been ok to run her that war, but I cleaned her up anyway to stop unnecessary wear from happening. A new piston/cylinder and she is good as new....

The old #4 Tee Dee Cylinder/piston will have some drag as it approaches TDC because of the tapered piston and cylinder bore. That's one that you can not push the piston all the way through unless it's badly worn out.

I knew that about the #4, but it was the drag that was more than usual, esp for a teedee. Take the piston/cylinder off sometime and flip the prop, she should go pretty good. After you have done this a few many times, you get used to seeing how loose it spins, and it doesn`t take much drag to greatly reduce/slow the prop flips. tell-tale sign for a good cleaning.

And that piston that was in the #4, it has 2 rings indented (hammered probably) into the piston top. Trying to reset maybe, looks like the reset tool was used on the wrong end of the piston

Jaspur_x wrote:I knew that about the #4, but it was the drag that was more than usual, esp for a teedee. Take the piston/cylinder off sometime and flip the prop, she should go pretty good. After you have done this a few many times, you get used to seeing how loose it spins, and it doesn`t take much drag to greatly reduce/slow the prop flips. tell-tale sign for a good cleaning.

And that piston that was in the #4, it has 2 rings indented (hammered probably) into the piston top. Trying to reset maybe, looks like the reset tool was used on the wrong end of the piston

Let me know what you think of the performance of the new type TD piston/cylinder. I'm thinking mine needs a new one. When I rebuilt it yesterday I had to insert the piston and rotate a few times before I could find a good fit, so it must be out of shape. Then I tried to re-assemble without turning the piston in the cylinder. Maybe it would find the sweet spot by itself. But I'll do a couple of rich break-in style runs before I cut it loose for full speed.

Will do Rknrusty, not sure when I will run it, may be soon, may be summer am tempted to put it on my old frankensteined littlest stick with a throtle ring or bernies carb and a stout wing ; to help with windy winter day flying


Nemoskull, did you consider throwing together a coroplast or coroflute beater for practice/trainer/ winter flying duties?

I will if the old littlest stick doesn`t fair very well to that (above) idea

Something like this ought to be rather tough.

just got one motor running! i started it without the throttle ring. it runs backwards, so i start it backwards, then it runs right ways.

now i know why they slimey power.

when the motor spits fuel, its rich, right?

i think i might try and fly this thing anyways once i get the motor right. if i can get some altitude, i think i will be okay.

Well if your not used to cox engines,or glow engines in general you may confuse normal exhaust spray for spitting fuel.

They throw what seems like a lot of castor/lubes out the exhaust until you get used to the fact thats just how they run when you have enough castor and lubes in the fuel.

But they can run rich enough to spew fuel out as well and keep on running.

When you adjust the needle, keep going slowly leaner from a rich setting until it gives a smooth shrill whine to the exhaust notes she is singing, you will know when you go too lean as it will lose the shrill whine ( at this point, needle back to the sweet spot) and if you go too far lean it will stall of course.

I like to run mine at the needle just peaking the rpm, just below the rich and not peaking point. This makes sure I`m not running lean as the tank empties out.
Keep tinkering with it and you`ll get the hang of tuning by ear if you don`t already have it yet.