Micro 12VDC Generator with a Cox .049 Sure Start Diesel Engine

robot797 wrote:i use plactic syrringe
i use plastic bottles
i even use a plastic fuel tank

the ether does nothing to them


so maybe basic chemistry is wrong
like i said
i stored complete fuel in a plastic (lampoil) bottle
that has no traces of neopre
it sat for 3 years in a garage and it was still good (i still use that bottle for my fuel)

even my secoond bottle that i used to store my starting mix in (20ml lamp oil 20ml castor oil 60ml ether)
that was from a diverent brand and colour had it for 3 years and it still fired the engine

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diethyl_ether

I found nothing about dissolving plastic

robot797 wrote:I found nothing about dissolving plastic

In Applicationd :

"

particularly important as a solvent in the production of cellulose plastics such as cellulose acetate.

"

cellulose plastics is a diverent plastic than normal plastic
imagen plastic made out of trees and stuff

robot797 wrote:cellulose plastics is a diverent plastic than normal plastic
imagen plastic made out of trees and stuff

Same think different rate yet still significant :

https://drugs-forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=52688

Ethet is gasoline. Gasoline is illegal to be stored in plastics because dissolves. The red containers are special and contain non plastic components.

StevenStanleyBayes wrote:

robot797 wrote:cellulose plastics is a diverent plastic than normal plastic
imagen plastic made out of trees and stuff

Same think different rate yet still significant :

https://drugs-forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=52688

Ethet is gasoline. Gasoline is illegal to be stored in plastics because dissolves. The red containers are special and contain non plastic components.

HERE IS A SCIENTIFIC INFORMATION from : http://www.ch.cam.ac.uk/safety/chemical-waste

"

Plastic bottles are suitable for acids and alkalis. DO NOT put aggressive solvents such as ether or dichloromethane, or mixtures containing aggressive solvents, in plastic containers as they soften and begin to dissolve unless the container is made of HDPE (high density polyethylene)!

"

The drug forum is important too because people there are very much concerned with Ether which is one of their important components.

Do not worry of your Ether in case you have this in a factory container. Should be OK.

Please, read the next post which I will title as " Powerful Ether ".

I read some things on the Internet RC Engine forums ( other than Cox ) and I did consider the information but did not care too much until I learned the hard way.

This is what I think of Ether :

The power of the used Ether ( RC engines usually use Diethyl Ether ) depends on :
1. The purity and the structure of the liquid which the manufacturers mark as Ether. The user has no much of control over this except when the Ether is derived from a starter can which is also filled with propellants and, maybe, Ether stabilisers. Then, the user must leave the derived Ether in an open container for a couple of minutes. The propellants will hopefully evaporate.
2. The purity of the Ether during and after use. This depends on the user entirely.
2.1 Ether Reaction : The user must not allow the Ether to react with anything with which Ether reacts. Ether reacts with plastics and dissolves them. Not as quickly as Sulphuric Acid but not as slow as lemon juice. Unless one must, one best avoid contact of Ether and plastics as much as possible.
2.2 Ether Dilution : Ether is derived from fossil oil ( a. k. a. Petrol or Petroleum ) which is dug from Earth. The stages of fossil oil purification from lowest quality up are : fossil oil, plastic material, lubrication oil material, burning oil, diesel, gasoline and Kerosene, Ether. Each of these dilutes with any of these up to a given level. Thus Ether best not be used with organic lubrication oil. The dilution of Ether in Kerosene is not at a very high level, this is why Ether is used with Kerosene for RC diesel. Much better is to use Ether and Methanol for RC diesel for the same reason. Methanol may or may not provide as much power when burning as Kerosene, yet the manufacturers of RC diesel engines ( such as Cox ) prefer Methanol than Kerosene. Some synthetic oils are said to be possible to be used with Ether. The one I have tried ( Nautilus 2 Stroke Fully Synthetic Marine Oil ) does not seem to work.
2.3 Ether Evaporation : Evaporation not only wastes the expensive Ether BUT reduces the concentration of pure Ether in whatever they put into such as propellants and stabilisers. This weakens the Ether.

The more powerful the Ether the better the startability of the engine ( the easier to start ). I have tried FRESH and strong Ether as well as weak Ether and have suffered the consequences ( difficult to start ) of weak Ether. The dependence of the startability on the strength of the Ether is mainly obvious with spring starts with loads and not as much with electric starts. Strong Ether priming with just a drop or two through the air intake is welcome although some sources are against and prefer supplying the engine with Ether through the exhaust.

I have found waiting after a few attempts ( good enough to bring fuel into the crankcase ) helps a lot. Waiting for less than 10 minutes makes the start almost immediate. I have thought this is because of the settling down of the fuel into the crankcase and emptying ( fully or partly ) of excess in the cylinder ( flooding or almost flooding ) which impedes the startability.

I now think some Ether may evaporate with the vapours remaining in the crankcase and or or into the cylinder. Ether vapours help start easier. I AM NOT SURE OF WHETHER THERE ARE SOME TINY ETHER VAPOURS OR NOT but I think there are.

The Ether used in RC diesel is Diethyl Ether. This seem to have a very low compression ignition. I have also found some marvelous Ethers such as Dimethyl Ether. These have very low boiling temperature ( 8 degrees Centigrade ) and evaporate easily. Probably, the boiling temperature can be adjusted chemically. I wish I have some alike to try to prime these into the crankcase, say, through a container positioned on top of the Air Valve intake. I think, these would evaporate into the cylinder before and during spring starts and the vapours would much more easily ignite to ignite the fuel ( which also contains Diethyl Ether ). Probably, these would dilute with the Diethyl Ether, yet, a good concentration of Dimethyl Ether as a primer would probably start the engine much more easily.

I am unable to prove this theory neither theoretically ( most important ) not practically ( direct derivation of the theoretical proof ) because I do not have such materials.

As I have mentioned earlier, I am pretty much sure there are a lot of unstable or partly stable components, usually Nitrate based which can be used as a primer with the described effect, either as vapours and or or liquids.

I do think, however, a chemist or chemical engineer or a lab technician can do some magic in this sense and, no, I do not think Davis Diesel uses these nor has come up with these because Davis Diesel sells the complete fuel and not primers separately, well, Davis Diesel does not sell primers at all and no one else does. This is because no one cares of engine startability and no one cares of improvement thereof and no one cares of startability at low ambient temperatures because no one except one person fromTthe UK who posted in the forum uses these engines in any other season except the summer. The said person from The UK flies airplanes only in the winter, however, The UK does not have winters and what they call winter there is autumn with temperatures higher than 4 degrees Centigrade, typically around 8.

Ordered Cox Castor Oil and Copper head gaskets. May not use the Copper head gaskets which are for Nitro because the Teflon Gasket is OK.

StevenStanleyBayes wrote:Ordered Cox Castor Oil and Copper head gaskets. May not use the Copper head gaskets which are for Nitro because the Teflon Gasket is OK.

nope also for diesel

unless you have a copper or brass compression disk

robot797 wrote:

StevenStanleyBayes wrote:Ordered Cox Castor Oil and Copper head gaskets. May not use the Copper head gaskets which are for Nitro because the Teflon Gasket is OK.

nope also for diesel

unless you have a copper or brass compression disk

We have been over this discussion. YES, you CAN put the Copper gaskets on a diesel. I do not think they would damage the Teflon gasket. Yes, you can also keep them when you put metal gasket instead of Teflon. They just elevate the gasket and make the chamber bigger and also protect the Teflon gasket from going too low. You can do anything with them without any worry.

HOWEVER, Cox sells the engines with only a Teflon gasket and no Copper head gaskets. Cox uses the Copper head gaskets for Nitro ONLY and not for diesel. Cox prefers to put the Teflon gasket with dome up. With the Teflon gasket put dome up AND a reset piston AND without over tightening the compression screw, the Teflon gasket should not be possible to be touched by the piston.

Some people on the Internet want a bigger chamber. These people prefer strong metallic gasket without elasticity to ensure the gasket will not go down when they over tighten their compression screw. I do not like the idea of running the engine without protection. I HAVE NOT TRIED THIS, BUT, OBVIOUSLY, when you install one or more Copper gaskets one over another, you will increase the chamber. With the chamber increased, you would be able to push more air and fuel into the chamber in case the crankcase can pump as much. I am afraid to do so because I do not know how the big chamber would affect startability with SPRING starts which I try to use.

Because you have electric start only, you can increase the chamber as much as you want. You can put a very strong metal gasket from a fairly strong metal. You will not have protection but you will be able to get huge power out of the engine. You should be OK as long as you do not go sky high with the RPM and the load.

i have flip started the engine when it had a double reed
hard as hell ran hot but ran great
then i put it and the fuel away for 3 years
my electric starter has nothing to do with it
i mean i flipstart my mk17 engine (russian diesel)
and that one doesnt even have a startspring (i have it running in 30 seconds)

i have killed many teflon disks by tightning it to tight becaus it was leaking
i used no and one coper gasket and it did not make a diverence in running speed or in the combustion chaimber
but it did stop the leaks

becaus of the setable compression (setscrew and contra piston)
you can set the same combustion chaimber
and i like metal disks becaus they are in all ways better then teflon

the seal better (contra piston does not touch fuel anymore like it should)
they are just as flexable but they retain there shape (starting get easyer)

if you over compress a normal soda can disk
it just tears no shattering
and you have a smaller chanse of overcompressing becaus the metal gets cut when the piston hits it

robot797 wrote:i have flip started the engine when it had a double reed
hard as hell ran hot but ran great
then i put it and the fuel away for 3 years
my electric starter has nothing to do with it
i mean i flipstart my mk17 engine (russian diesel)
and that one doesnt even have a startspring (i have it running in 30 seconds)

i have killed many teflon disks by tightning it to tight becaus it was leaking
i used no and one coper gasket and it did not make a diverence in running speed or in the combustion chaimber
but it did stop the leaks

becaus of the setable compression (setscrew and contra piston)
you can set the same combustion chaimber
and i like metal disks becaus they are in all ways better then teflon

the seal better (contra piston does not touch fuel anymore like it should)
they are just as flexable but they retain there shape (starting get easyer)

if you over compress a normal soda can disk
it just tears no shattering
and you have a smaller chanse of overcompressing becaus the metal gets cut when the piston hits it

Thanks. This is good info.

I do not want to use anything but Teflon disks because I do not know the compresdion at which they protect and I am afraid they may fall into the cylinder.

I do not have problems with compression leaks around the Teflon gasket. I do however want to be sure the head and the cylinder are tightly screwed so, even in case of a leak,not much goes through tge threads.

I do not use extreme compresdion, just one finger tightening of the screw until some tiny resistance.

I am afraid the Copper gaskets would lift the Teflon disk although I understand they are very thin. I am also afraid of the low temperature dissipation by Copper : gets hot and does not dissipate. I am afraid the hot Copper may melt the Teflon.

I trust your experience and may use this in the future.

I am now back to square one trying to start the engine in aeroplane way, without anything attached. I was able to do this in less than 20 seconds. I hope to be able to do this with the Cox Castor Oil. Then, I would attempt hit starts with the dynamo. Then I must ensure the starts are consistent with more than 10vstarts.Then I can say I can start the engine and the system.

This is why I am afraid to do anything out of the book fir now and I try to be as strict as possibke. In tge future, I may try other things as per your posts.

Parcel from Cox received. Not opened yet. Castor Oil bottle obvious. I trust Cox, so the Copper head gaskets would be there too. May be used in the future.

The engine has been reassembled and ready.

Cox Castor Oil has been received. Kerosene, John Deere Starter Fluid and Cetone Booster are available.

Should retry soon. Wish luck.

Thanks.

Hey, SSB. I was wondering where you'd been, glad you're back in action. Good luck.
Rusty

RknRusty wrote:Hey, SSB. I was wondering where you'd been, glad you're back in action. Good luck.
Rusty

Thanks.

hey welcome back

it has been a long long time
how have you been
i have been realy buzzy

like the aluminium
it tear when used to much and when it has over pressure

robot797 wrote:hey welcome back

it has been a long long time
how have you been
i have been realy buzzy

like the aluminium
it tear when used to much and when it has over pressure

Thanks. I've been away from the project for a while. Hope everything would be OK.

I am happy the Aluminium works.

Will report as usually what happens here.

hey my friend why have you disabled the comments on your video's?

robot797 wrote:hey my friend why have you disabled the comments on your video's?

I usually disable all comments everywhere because I am unable to answer questions and reply as I have many places where I publish various things. I have made some mistakes in some places where I have forgotten to disable questions and comments.

Cox Engine Forum is one of the few places and, probably, the only, where I have the pleasure to publish and respond. Also, because this place is for engines and because I got to love this type of engines a lot I am happy to have long discussions and publications.

As I have been saying, I find these engines really miraculous. So tiny and so much power. Look like UFO technology.

Having said this, I have not been able to return to the generator yet. I hope this will happen soon. I have been doing other things. Not as an excuse but I have interests in these areas, along with the Cox engine project : electronics hardware, mainly recently : simple analogue amplifier power stages; software : before Windows 32 and DOS programming in Assembly and C, now, Android applications, html, JavaScript and Java; I write articles on various topics here and there as well as a few books, not very successful in the market although for free but, for being not famous I have had some success; guitar and guitar pick design; MOST IMPORTANT : GUITAR PLAYING, MUSIC, SONG COMPOSING.

Now, there is something very important although I do not expect people from Australia to understand : the weather is very good now and will be so through mid September or around. I MUST use every single opportunity whenever there is no storms to go to the beach and get some sun and swim in the river. I will not have this chance thereafter. I am in the North but I am a southerner by character. This is also why I was not happy in Europe as the whole Europe, even Sicily and Greece are very North and have winters.

The UK and, probably, The Netherlands do not have a real winter but, as far as I am aware, do not have a real summer either. I cannot imagine to be in Amsterdam or Venice, surrounded by water and not being able to jump into and swim. Why would I need water then. I do not own a farm.

So, I guess, I would be excused for the summer. : )

StevenStanleyBayes wrote: .......I do not expect people from Australia to understand : the weather is very good now and will be so through mid September or around.

What is there to understand?  You have summer , we have winter.   The world is not flat.  When we have summer, you'll have winter.  The further from the equator you go, the cooler it gets, north of south.  Pretty simple for this Australian.  Am I missing something?

p.s. Keep out of the sun. Skin cancer is not a happy thing- I know. Local campaign says "There's nothing healthy about a tan".

Oldenginerod wrote:

StevenStanleyBayes wrote: .......I do not expect people from Australia to understand : the weather is very good now and will be so through mid September or around.

What is there to understand?  You have summer , we have winter.   The world is not flat.  When we have summer, you'll have winter.  The further from the equator you go, the cooler it gets, north of south.  Pretty simple for this Australian.  Am I missing something?

p.s. Keep out of the sun.  Skin cancer is not a happy thing- I know.  Local campaign says "There's nothing healthy about a tan".

I meant Australia has summer only and here there are only 2 and a half to three months of variable weather.

Sun tan is incredibly healthy when done properly. A person with a very white complexion can burn within 20 minutes in the Australian sun. However, when the same person builds up tan gradually, there is no problem. Thus, in Australia, one should be exposed for around 10 minutes initially to the hot summer sun. Roughly, a minute can be added for each consecutive 24 hour period. In a week a person would build some kind of tan and can increase the exposure. Between 2 weeks and a month after the first exposure, the person would be safe to be exposed to the sun indefinitely. Because Australia has one season only : summer, which is excellent, a person can start to tan in what is called there a winter. Then exposures can be much longer. In the summer, the person would have very strong brown tan going black in some cases. Once this tan is built and maintained, there is no way for the person to burn nor to develop skin cancer. This is because tan means building of melanin under the epidermis. This melanin blocks the UV lights and protects from skin cancer. Another positive effect is melanin converts part of the light into vitamin D which is immensely important. This vitamin D is release all over the surface of the exposed part and goes straight into many organs at a constant rate and cannot be simulated just by taking pills of vitamin D. Another very important effect is the constant and even warming of all internal organs which make them work easily without pressure. This makes a person healthy and with more energy and with stronger internal organs for a very long period. This is why Australians are expected to live longer than Northerners with the same genetics say, the British and the Northern Europeans whose organs have to work at huge rate consuming huge energy. In other words, in hot weather, the organism does not have to work hard to maintain 36.5C as opposed to the same organism in freezing weather. This does not wear the organism and the internal organs as much.

A proof to this theory is the fact the Aboriginals never burn and never get skin cancer and they have been naked exposed to the same sun for thousands of years. This is mainly because of their skin colour and high level of melanin. A very white person, when initially exposed correctly can reach pretty much similar tan as the colour of the aboriginals which would protect the person pretty much the same. Everything is correct exposure.

In case I was in Australia, I would start with lower exposures. I know when I would burn and when to stop. Then, once I build a tan, I would walk without a shirt everywhere where allowed to maintain the tan. Thus, I would never get skin cancer not because of lack of exposure but because of a lot of exposure. In other words, I would use the sun against skin cancer and not the lack thereof.

I have tried tested and trued this theory in 30 to 35C as well as millions of people. I am surprised Northern Europeans as well as Northern USA and Canada do not know this. Thus, when the government of Australia says : Do not go in the sun this means go in the sun BUT know how to. Trying to hide from the sun would lead to a lack of initial pre tan exposure which may lead to skin cancer in case of a consecutive exposure.

hey man
weather aside
how is your generator
is it running again?

mine is
and i have run roughly 1L of fuel trough it by now