And she started up with a mighty roar....

Sorry to hear of the stripped-out cylinder threads in the case.. but you did gain the piston you needed for the other cub. Are the threads on the jug ok? I can't remember if you were able to get the piston free after the rod snapped on that other engine.. but you might want to consider swapping-over both piston and cylinder.. I'm assuming that the porting is the same. I didn't know about the copper gasket needed at the cylinder to case fitting. I haven't run my .049 Cub yet and have only had it a short time. I'll be watching to see how your luck goes. These topics are always informative to others who have the same/similar engine.. that they haven't tried running yet.

Your fuel line in the recent post had me wondering too.. Those small Perfect tanks have really small tubes. A quickie fix to make a larger than optimal line fit tighter on that tank's nipple is to cut a piece of alloy tubing for a compression-sleeve. Check your tubing stock for a size that's just under what the line will fit inside of.. and cut/de-burr a piece about 1/4"L. Dab a little petroleum jelly onto the end of the line and twist the tubing (it's silicone.. correct?) into the sleeve and through it just a bit. Push the line all the way onto the nipple and slide the sleeve to compress the line.

I did this in reverse, for running larger line on my Cox Killer-Bee style backplate, in an effort to lower the resistance to flow on a suction-only feed. My tanks; although tiny.. were plumbed with 1/8" copper tube.

Here's a couple different pics showing where this can be useful.





Plenty of fuel volume in this line.. and no air leaks.

rsv1cox wrote:... I sold mine years ago on ebay.  Occasionally I look at those old ebay pictures and wish I had all that stuff back.  NIB engines including a Conquest, .051's, TD's new in the package parts, the list goes on.  

Bob

Ooouuch, that really is a kick in the axx. I've heard so may people say they did the same thing. Who knew we'd be 12 again one late day. I wish I'd known what a Tee Dee and Medallion was back then, other than just those funny looking Coxes in the store. A Conquest, really!

Other than spare TDs and Medallions, that's the only C/L Cox engine I really really want in my drawer, but I can't justify buying one. Norvels are 10 times better, but the Conquest just calls out to me. I know there's one that wants to be mine. Somewhere, someday.
Rusty

Hmmm, I can't use the cylinder from the plastic tanked "A" model Cub as the threads are worn as are the crankcases.  So I'm forced into using the piston from the "A" in the anodized metal tanked "B" models cylinder which had the broken connecting rod.  
 



Both of the heads on these are really buggered up by previous owners.  I didn't even attempt to remove them from the cylinders.

The B's cylinder had a burr at the exhaust port, so I cleaned the broken piston from the A, turned it upside down (minus the con rod) and forced it through the burr, then polished with fine steel wool and oil.  Works fine now.  Interesting intake porting on these FRV's, three ports equally spaced at the bottom of the cylinder.  

The B came with a full compliment of  gaskets, the A model had none.  



Got both the .099 and the .049B repaired and ready to go.  The .099 works fine, I still have to test run the .049 but it looks like it's going to be OK...



Still have to revisit the .149.

Thanks for the hints on collaring the tubing roddie, I will give it a try.

chevyiron420 wrote:My understanding is a 099 with beam mount only is a 1949, after that they had beam and radial. This is the same engine I have on a ringmaster and need a crankcase for. My main bearing got taken out by a out of balance spinner.

OK made this beam mount adapter for the .099

In 1958, they put on the undrilled square plate at the back of the engine and added the beam mounts.

That reduced diameter round section on the front of the case has always been interesting. I have heard of, but never seen, .099s with rear crank bearings; maybe that is the idea of that design.

Interesting GWF, I have never seen that mount.

A couple of early Ok .049's no A or B suffix pictured as received.



Looks like the left had one has an owner mod on the needle valve assembly.



A couple of put togethers, an "H" model? on left.



Some B models.  Bottom two must be "product" engines mounted in an airplane.  Looks like the props at one time had spinners.  Top engine has a pull string start and an unusual prop drive washer either boat or plane.  



I'm still hitting on that stubborn .149.  I rearranged the fuel supply and got it to run for 3 or 4 seconds then it would quit.  The only way it would run at all would be slobbering rich, spitting fuel out of the exhaust ports and venturi.  Anything leaner and it was done.  



I'm going to try a different needle.  These blunt tapered needles allow little room for adjustment error.

The two engines in your first pictures are the original Cubs; the first .049s by anyone (commercially). The one with the serial number is one of the very first ones from 1949! It originally had an Arden plug. The one with no serial number is a little later, probably late 1950 or so. These were long stroke .049s.

"Scuze me while I whip this out."
>049B
Replaced the needle assembly with the 128tpi
one from Texas Timers a while back. Could hardly
start her before. Needles beautifully now.
Bob

I've tried modifying the needle like suggested by many but slightly more taper seems to allow the thimble to bottom out on the spray bar, not allowing the needle to close. I have actually shortened the thimble on one to overcome this.

Rod.

I managed to press mine out with a buffered vice, safer than beating on it with a hammer. Harbor Freight sells mechanical advantage presses rather cheaply but I have avoided getting one. I'm not sure if you would get the M/A out of drill press sufficient to do the job or the precision to guide it, but it's worth a try. If you do, let us know how it works out.

Bob

dckrsn wrote:"Scuze me while I whip this out."
>049B
Replaced the needle assembly with the 128tpi
one from Texas Timers a while back. Could hardly
start her before. Needles beautifully now.
Bob

Is that a tapered needle Bob like the standard Cox .049's?  Is it a tap right in fit and does the venturi align properly in the center?

rsv1cox wrote:
Is that a tapered needle Bob like the standard Cox .049's?  Is it a tap right in fit and does the venturi align properly in the center?

Yep, it's a tapered needle. I just supported the bottom side and pushed with a drill press vice.
Replacement pushes in by hand, and is secured with a little JB-Weld. Locating the fuel opening
is no problem.
Bob

Of the .049B's that you refer to as product engines, I have one like the lower left. It came on a Comet Sabre44. The later Sabre44's used a pull starter...perhaps like the one above it.

Great bunch of engines you got in that deal!

George

Bob, is that a Nelson plug setup on the Cub? Ken

Ken Cook wrote:               Bob, is that a Nelson plug setup on the Cub? Ken

Hi Ken,  I haven't pulled the plugs on either of the .049's, but I think they are standard 1/4-32. The .149 is a standard plug.  I will take a look and let you know.

Bob

I thought I would try the red tanked "Product" engine next. Lower left. Ran it as pictured as it was freed up but slightly corroded.



Fueled it up with 20% nitro and it started right up, no problem. Running rich I leaned it out but got no better the 7.5K on my Glow boy tach. Ran it a couple more times and could get no better, but at least it runs.

Disassembled it partially and cleaned it, lubed with Remoil and after run and bagged it for future use.









Next up it the other product engine. This one is quite clean, looks new.