Of course it's fugly - it's the Re-Nobler

You're a Stunt fiend!
Chris...

I actually came in here to post about it last night, but it got too late replying to email, so I postponed til tonight. Stay tunes and I'll update.
Rusty

Rusty you bring excitement to this hobby!!!!!!!!!

Bob

rsv1cox wrote:Rusty you bring excitement to this hobby!!!!!!!!!

Bob

Thanks, Bob. I'm sure glad y'all get a kick out of my crazy adventures in aeromodeling, like I do.

stuntflyr wrote:You're a Stunt fiend!
Chris...

Haha, yeah Chris, I guess I am... or maybe a stunt nut would describe it better Lol. I sure love doing it, one of these days I hope to get pretty good at at it. A little at a time will do.
Rusty

I guess by now y'all know better than to believe, despite my excited enthusiasm, statements such as the following:

RknRusty wrote:Guess what! I'm gonna have a new Nobler ARF in a day or so. ...

However it really is coming to be. I ran into too much for the Nobler before Huntersville, like needing a trip to the LHS for threaded couplers, clevises, CF tube and 3/32 wire to replace the old nasty looking bendy control rods. And needing to make a couple of parts that wouldn't easily transfer from the old wreck to the new airframe. Back in October, I learned from experience not to hit a contest running, with too many loose ends that seemed so simple when I dreamed them up. That was the roughest fun weekend I ever had... well, in that sort of way anyway.

When I get through working on it tonight, Y'all will get a full update. With the Joe Nall Stunt contest coming up this Saturday, I need something less taxing than getting back on the Twister, and this is the perfect project. The Cardinal and I will go fly, and if the Nobler still needs work afterwards, I'll polish it off and finish the Twister, leaving me a whole Summer to fly and play before October and H'ville roll around again.

So please stay tuned for more from the excited stunt nut.
Rusty

Okay, here's he story on the Nobler. Thank you guys for posting this morning. That helps me want to keep moving in this.

The old one was known as the Rescue Nobler. It was left abandoned at Joe Nall a few years ago and nobody wanted it. But come time to pack out, someone had tossed it into the back of Wayne's truck, so back home it came. The ARF had been assembled, glued together without having any of the chinakote cut away for wood to wood gluing between the wing and fuselage, and the hinges had been thoroughly epoxied together so the controls were completely immovable and locked in place. He finally got it airworthy and flew it a few times with a Brodak 40 and gave it to me, and I flew it all last Summer with an fp 35, until I bashed it learning 5' pullouts on a windy day.

Will Davis had given a new fuselage, wing, flaps and cowl in case I ever needed them, so finally now seemed like a good time, with the Oriental being in a grocery bag and all. It didn't take long for my dream of a two day re-fit to fall through. Whatever was going on where the sun don't shine inside that plane was too icky to reuse, so I needed to make new controls, and I abandoned in lieu of R&R the week before Huntersville. But Saturday I got all the parts I need and now she's going back together. I didn't do much on it tonight, but it should be fairly easy to finish in the next week or so.

Here's what the old Rescue looked like inside. Blackened lubricant and a pile of metal chips from the bellcrank's plating are everywhere. As you  can see, Wayne had properly bushed the leadouts.


I salvaged the old short flap rod and the flap horn is in good shape, so they are part of the new wing now. Here's the new elevator rod I made last night. The stab and elevator from the Rescue Nobler are still in one piece, hinged and glued. That might make getting them installed and adjusted tricky. I'm not sure what order it's meant to be assembled, but with new Sullivan clevises, I can unclip and reclip them a couple of times before I worry about weakening them.


Here's the new wing. How 'bout those hookups to the BC. They're staying. I figure they'll be fine for a practice plane. If I ever make it to the World Cup, I'll do it right. Don't worry, the Twister has properly built hardware. I found some 4-40 ball links that I would have connected to the crank had I known they were in the drawer, but... ah hell, it's an ARF, so shoot me. See the rough textured silver plating. That's what had eroded and scattered all over the old one. I've lubricated all of this with dry silicon spray. Ken recommended that when I built the Oriental, and it seems like great stuff. especially on key-locks and such metal parts. I use it on all sorts of things.



Here's the new wing with the flap horn installed. Hey, see that Yak-9 in the background... I bought a Sterling P-51 from Mike Londke, that's its sister ship. It's in perfect shape with all good wood. Looking forward to building it. Probably a good one for a Max-S 35, so I'll be on the lookout for one of those. A good substitute for a Fox 35 like the Yak gas.



And get a load of this, that's the old Canopy and pilot from the Oriental. After a little cutting it's an absolutely perfect fit! So some the old Oreo lives on.




This is just a picture of all the new parts. That was a great pile of repair parts Will gave me.


So this one should fill the bill as a great practice plane along with the Twister this Summer. Who knows, maybe it lives long enough to wear out those leadout clips. Maybe I'll call it the Re-Nobler.
Stunt Nut, Rusty

P.S.

stuntflyr wrote:You're a Stunt fiend!
Chris...

You're a pretty accomplished stunter yourself, aren't you Chris? RC, maybe, or CL... or both?

I personally wouldn't use those clips. It can become difficult enough to prevent the swage tubing from hanging up on a rib and the clips now push the tube back another 1/2". In addition to that it's a jam waiting to happen. I've seen conventional lead out loops wrap around the end of a bellcrank due to being flipping around and jamming a bellcrank. The clips now double that chance of that happening especially if the elevator is operated by moving just the elevator and not by the wires. Problems can occur in instances when your flying in in the wind which throws the plane slack and you regain control. In my opinion, the only reasoning they chose to do this was so that the bellcrank doesn't cut through the cable. If your looking to get it in the air quickly, I would go for it, but I wouldn't be surprised if the inevitable happens when it does. Ken

Ahh-Yup, I just found I can't move the bellcrank by pushing the flap rod without jamming it. Happens every time. There goes another week, because my sacred holder of the swage tool is at Triple Tree all week. I may or may not have 6' of .027, but I do have a Sig bellcrank.
Rusty

Besides the clips I'd also be more concerned of the slop. I can see light all the way around the bellcrank clip hole.

Why not just change the leadouts out now while you are in there?

Cribbs74 wrote:Besides the clips I'd also be more concerned of the slop. I can see light all the way around the bellcrank clip hole.

Why not just change the leadouts out now while you are in there?

Yes, there's no way to get rid of the clips without replacing the leadouts, as per my mention of whether or not I have 6' of .027 leadout wire. And swaging. Really, Topflite, couldn't you have made it to actually work a little bit reliably? No, I suppose, because the Chinese kids putting these together have no idea what we need them to do, and an otherwise brilliant jack of all trades was tasked with fixing a problem(LO fraying in the rough metal holes) but had no idea of what the collateral implications were.

If it were me that whole bellcrank and leadout assy would disappear and a nylon bellcrank and proper leadouts would find their way in there.

I was just thinking since it was all accessible then it would be time to do it right and never have to open it again. I know messing with leadouts is a pain for you though.

Ron

That's what I think too. I found several Sig bellcranks in the drawer today, and right before I gave up, 6 feet of .027" leadout wire. Now I just have to convince my fingers to do the wrapping job. Wayne has a swaging tool but he's at Joe Nall all week. I suppose I could be mounting the engine and all that while I wait to get the tool. I'll probably thank myself for having made the right decision if I wait. And you and Ken for sitting on my shoulders shaking doubting fingers ar that stupid setup that came in it Lol.

Okay, I'll do the right thing. Besides, I got a contest to fly in on Saturday, so I want the C/L Gremlins looking the other way.
Rusty

Glad that your heading the advice on the lead-outs Rusty. I wish I lived close enough to help you in some way.. because I would. Not that I know all that much. I'm still trying to absorb and remember all the do's and don'ts mentioned when it comes to control-linkage integrity. Great looking canopy BTW!!

roddie wrote:Glad that your heading the advice on the lead-outs Rusty. I wish I lived close enough to help you in some way.. because I would. Not that I know all that much. I'm still trying to absorb and remember all the do's and don'ts mentioned when it comes to control-linkage integrity. Great looking canopy BTW!!

I like that canopy too. The fighter pilot has a big red N on the side of his helmet. Russ the Nailer! I was happy when I found it fit so easily. It's a little scuffed and smudged, but I'll clean it up as well as I can. I'm looking forward to flying this one and finishing that Twister. Walter Umland is asking about it. I think he wants his stab-jig video.
Rusty

RknRusty wrote:That's what I think too. I found several Sig bellcranks in the drawer today, and right before I gave up, 6 feet of .027" leadout wire. Now I just have to convince my fingers to do the wrapping job. Wayne has a swaging tool but he's at Joe Nall all week. I suppose I could be mounting the engine and all that while I wait to get the tool. I'll probably thank myself for having made the right decision if I wait. And you and Ken for sitting on my shoulders shaking doubting fingers ar that stupid setup that came in it Lol.

Okay, I'll do the right thing. Besides, I got a contest to fly in on Saturday, so I want the C/L Gremlins looking the other way.
Rusty

Keep in mind copper wrapping is just as strong if not stronger. Without the tool you need it's an option. Not sure if you can back feed through the wing, if you could wrap on the bench and install the leadouts the wrong way. OTOH 3' may give you enough to work with through the wing.

Edit: nevermind... I really need to read all the way through your posts!

Yep, back feeding the wire is how I replaced the BC and leadouts in the Oriental. I used CA and a dusting of baking soda to connect the new wire, already connected to the bellcrank, to the cut off end of the existing wire and pulled it through. Solder is another option.
Rusty

Boy, it's embarrassing how my enthusiasm precedes me to ridiculous heights.
But the Twister is done and the Cardinal hasn't self destructed yet, I put the Nobler back on the table and knocked out the hardest part, re-fitting with a new bellcrank and leadouts.
Bushed and swaged with overkill, and free as can be. The shrinkwrap extends far enough to not catch on the ribs


__________________
I got rid of the corroded looking metric bolts, nuts, and washersI didn't have a 6-32 nylock nut, so I did the next best thing, JB-Weld.

___________________

If you ever need to fish new leadouts, I've found something that works marvelously for me. Some gold colored Sullivan cable, about .035" or so twisted strands, really soft flexible stuff. For R/C I presume. Remember Bullit, he came up from Charleston one day on his birthday so I could teach him how to fly, and to see if his planes were flightworthy. When he left, that 6' coil of gold wire was left behind. I still had to cut the Monokote to see how it enters the center section, but this stuff made it easy. If you store it wrapped into a 3" coil, when you unroll it, it hangs straight so that it can be dropped all the way through the wing, beginning at the tip guides. I glued it with some baking soda and CA to the leadouts and pulled them right back through, even through the brass tubes at the tip.
You can see the 1/2" of leadout I glued to the end of the gold wire that had been fished in from the wingtip.


So I'll resist excitedly telling y'all how soon I'll have this thing ready to fly.
Rusty

Rusty,

I like that leadout fishin' technique of yours! Sure beats the catch and release method!

JMynes wrote:Rusty,

I like that leadout fishin' technique of yours! Sure beats the catch and release method!

Haha, yeah, Jim, no kidding, that was the easiest fishin' I've ever done. Just poke and rotate a few times, and it drops right in. I guess I could have used the gold stuff for leadouts, but I'd already made up the set back in May when I was claiming to be almost finished. My Cardinal that Watt built has some soft flexy stuff that looks like my fishin' leader, but it's not gold. Not anymore if it ever was.
Rusty

Not a looker, but all the internals are hooked up. The flaps are adjusted for neutral, but not the elevator yet. It's just screwed and press fit together. I just wanted to see if I could fit ball links anywhere. It has an L bend at the bellcrank, and I may be able to get one or two ball links on the flap rod. I'll use clevis on the elevator horn and probably adjust it there. I'll have to cut an access to it. But there are several approaches I can take to assembling it. The stab/elev. were left over from the Rescue Nobler still intact. I read that it's better to install the tank and engine before proceeding, but I'm not sure why. I'll do it though, no reason not to. I have an fp.40 and the 5oz. tank Ken made me for the Oriental. The idea is to have two backup planes in October. Last year I was so low on stunters I flew the Ukey. Still hoping to forget that.

I do have a full set of Navy decals for it, so it might look okay. And the cut down canopy and jet pilot from the Oriental fit perfectly.

Way to go Rusty, take a pile of parts and make something out of it. Man after my own heart.

After Ken's and Ron's analysis I'm afraid to post about my Air Crates controls but I'm going to anyway. Maybe save me an airplane. But agreed that bell crank and it's hook up's did need some serious alterations. Nice job on the repair.

Bob

It's not ugly at all, well it looks fine as Noblers go. Should be pretty easy to make it pretty. Patch the hole and throw a canopy on it.

Here are some pictures of how the spare-part Re-Nobler is coming along.

The silicon sleeve for the flap clevis got torn, so I wrapped it with 28g wire and epoxied it. It should hold on tight. I later wire wrapped the other clevis in the picture too. You can see where its sleeve is starting to tear too


After getting all the controls hooked up, I'd done so much wood cutting i was worried about strength. So not wanting to fold a wing, I covered all the access to the bellcrank area.


Now to close all the gaps where the wing will be glued to the fuselage, I molded a piece of 16th balsa to fill in the LE. And in the next two pics you'll see where I added some shim stock to close some more gaps.



This is me making a shim to make the bottom cap fit snugly


And a couple of strips to snug the root between the fuse and center sheeting. It tapers off until none is needed farther back. Makes me wonder if the hole in the fuse for the alignment dowel was drilled in the wrong place. If that is the case, then I'll be building in some negative incidence. I hope not, but I'm not going to spend time fretting over it.


This is a patch over the hole for the bellcrank screw. I'll sand it and finish filling it in before the final wing gluing.


I was ready to recess the flaps for the hinges. When I went to pull them out of the inboard flap, damned if they weren't already glued in place. I ruined one hinge with pliers, refusing to believe they were glued. These are new flaps, so whoever had these parts before me must have done it. Good Grief! The outboard flap doesn't have hinges glued. I guess I'll recess the wing TE  instead of the flap on the inboard side. I see plenty of ARFs that don't have recesses, but I like to do it. Now it's going to look a little funny, but since I've already deemed it "Fugly" I suppose it's okay Lol.


Also look at the cool spinner I got for the Twister. I did this in case I need the electric starter in a contest. But with the crankshaft adapter, it's a whole ounce heavier than the Acorn nut. I'll find out Thursday if I don't like the added weight, ut it barely moved the C/G, and it's still aft of the plan's C/G. I think it'll be okay, but the damn thing is growing in weight. Must be pushing close to 43 ounces now. The spinner fit my APC prop with very little filing, and I could have gone with none at all, but I like a tiny gap so the spinner doesn't touch the prop anywhere.
Here's a pic of the spinner, it looks nice on the plane.

The spinner


And the adapter.


Rusty